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Hot R/R along with complete power loss (GS450E -82)

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    Hot R/R along with complete power loss (GS450E -82)

    Hi there! I haven't been posting in a while since the bike's been running flawlessly since getting the carb tuned and R/R properly wired (mistaked the ignition wire for ground), but now after riding over a cobble road said ignitor wire came loose from my shoddy connector crimp . Once I got the seat removed and noticed what was wrong I felt that the R/R was hot to the touch. The loose ignition wire caused an overcharge situation which was also a question I posten on here about. Should I be worried about this or is it likely shorted on the inside? One of the pins for the three stator wires had melted around the connector so I assume there was some spicy action going on there . I recrimped all the wires and started the bike from cold and within a minute the R/R was hot again. For the record I have LED light all around and my max load is right around 8A. Any advice?

    #2
    If you're running all LED lighting, the standard reg-rec is punishing the stator even more than normal. The only solution is a series reg-rec - like an SH775 - do a forum search.
    ---- Dave

    Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

    Comment


      #3
      As I've understood it's pretty difficult to differentiate between counterfeit models of the SH775 before buying, but how about when you have the unit in your hands? Is there a way of determining the R/R type once you have one? I have a three phase R/R unit on hand from a 2017 chinese Honda Z50 clone but I'm not at all sure if it's a series or shunt model .

      Comment


        #4
        It's really not that difficult. The Genuine Shindengen SH-775 has this writing in white on the top fin. Haven't seen a counterfeit one yet that mimics this. Doesn't mean it doesn't happen.
        Not the best pic to illustrate but you can see it.

        If in doubt, throw up a pic. Or, contact Nessism . He buys used units, tests them on his bike and sells them at a good price. He sometimes has a couple or three ready to go.
        Rich
        1982 GS 750TZ
        2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

        BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
        Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

        Comment


          #5
          I might have to buy a genuine used one since when searching for specifically the SH755 most of what I see below 100€ are replacement versions that look the same but conveniently don't show that writing on the top fins. They are very tempting though since most of them come with the plugs too

          Comment


            #6
            here's a better picture of the top fin.
            Rich
            1982 GS 750TZ
            2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

            BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
            Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by ChickenStorm View Post
              I might have to buy a genuine used one since when searching for specifically the SH755 most of what I see below 100€ are replacement versions that look the same but conveniently don't show that writing on the top fins. They are very tempting though since most of them come with the plugs too
              Don't buy a fake. They are NOT proven to be series type. Most likely shunt type.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #8
                Is there a measurable difference between a shunt or series type? Is there a way for me to test this one I have already, if it's a shunt or not? I guess the most straightforward way would be to see if it gets hot but that seems unnecessarily risky.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by ChickenStorm View Post
                  Is there a measurable difference between a shunt or series type? Is there a way for me to test this one I have already, if it's a shunt or not? I guess the most straightforward way would be to see if it gets hot but that seems unnecessarily risky.
                  Almost all R/R's are shunt type. It's only certain later model bikes that have moved to series type. I'm not sure how to do it, but there have been some guys that checked function using an amp meter. Series shuts off return current directed to the stator.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Regulators that work with permanent magnet alternators, like on most motorcycles, are all "shunt" regulators. They "shunt" excess power to ground.
                    The older types had the regulating circuit in parallel, the Shindengens have the regulating circuit in series. Less circuitry, less heat. The biggest claim to fame of the Shindengens are the mosfet diodes, which are a lot faster, and have less overhead... so less heat.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by bitzz View Post
                      Regulators that work with permanent magnet alternators, like on most motorcycles, are all "shunt" regulators. They "shunt" excess power to ground.
                      The older types had the regulating circuit in parallel, the Shindengens have the regulating circuit in series. Less circuitry, less heat. The biggest claim to fame of the Shindengens are the mosfet diodes, which are a lot faster, and have less overhead... so less heat.
                      Actually, SERIES type function different than shunt. The MOSFET Shindengens, are still shunt.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You need an oscilloscope to be able to see what is happening to the current. Without that it's not possible to see what it's doing....
                        1980 GS1000G - Sold
                        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I've been reading up on "The Stator Papers" and all components seem to be in order. I even redid the ground wires in thicker gauge so that won't be the problem. So now I'm asking if it's normal for the R/R to get hot after idling a while? My peak power draw is 8A with the halogen blinkers on but my average running load is only around 5A. Is it just a fact that I need a series regulator or is there still something I should check? Should I consider getting a mosfet type R/R and just wait for the stator to give up and rewind it then?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            When the stator on my 82 450 went bad I'd been running a SH775 for well over a year at that point. The best choice would be to replace both the R/R and stator at the same time but by the same token why replace a part that isn't broken?

                            When the stator finally did go bad two of the three windings where shorted, I was only getting 1/3 of it's output into the charging system. After unplugging the headlight I had enough power to run the bike but not charge it, the starter wouldn't turn the bike over but I was able to push start it until the new stator arrived.
                            1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
                            1982 GS450txz (former bike)
                            LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.

                            I identify as a man but according to the label on a box of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by ChickenStorm View Post
                              I've been reading up on "The Stator Papers" and all components seem to be in order. I even redid the ground wires in thicker gauge so that won't be the problem. So now I'm asking if it's normal for the R/R to get hot after idling a while? My peak power draw is 8A with the halogen blinkers on but my average running load is only around 5A. Is it just a fact that I need a series regulator or is there still something I should check? Should I consider getting a mosfet type R/R and just wait for the stator to give up and rewind it then?
                              Mosfet types are still shunt types, so a waste of time and money if you want to extend stator life.
                              Get a series type before your stator craps itself.
                              ---- Dave

                              Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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