Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Turn signal switch dissasembly

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Turn signal switch dissasembly

    Any of you guys know how to take apart this switch assembly without breaking it? My horn button broke and I need to replace it. I opened it up and it doesn't look complicated. It appears to be held in with a tie strap and a single screw. But It looks like I need to remove the turn signal switch from the front first. When I gently pry on it, it doesn't budge. Again, I really don't want to break it.

    Also, if there are tiny parts in there, I don't want them to come flying out!

    Oh, this is on a 1982 GS1100 GK.
    IMG_3591.jpg

    #2
    The big square button needs to be turned sideways in order to remove it. There are a lot of tiny balls and springs, so take it apart over a tub, in case parts fall. I suggest taking it all apart, cleaning, and greasing with dielectric grease.

    I have a flickr album with some photos of the guts. I'll post up a link in a little while.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      The big square button needs to be turned sideways in order to remove it. There are a lot of tiny balls and springs, so take it apart over a tub, in case parts fall. I suggest taking it all apart, cleaning, and greasing with dielectric grease.

      I have a flickr album with some photos of the guts. I'll post up a link in a little while.
      So you mean I need to rotate the square button 90 degrees? Good thing I asked and didn’t try to pry it off!!

      Comment


        #4
        Correct. It's all pretty easy but you don't want to break that knob.
        1986 1150EF
        2008 GS1250SEA

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
          The big square button needs to be turned sideways in order to remove it. There are a lot of tiny balls and springs, so take it apart over a tub, in case parts fall. I suggest taking it all apart, cleaning, and greasing with dielectric grease.

          I have a flickr album with some photos of the guts. I'll post up a link in a little while.
          If found the album you're referring to in another post. I can't really see how the square button fits. I tried to turn the square button and it won't budge. It even made a faint "crack" sound so I immediately stopped. It's not broken yet. Not sure what to do now.

          Comment


            #6
            Sorry, it's been way too many years for me to remember all the specific details on how to get that button off. If it won't rotate one way, try the other. One way or another, it will turn...
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

            Comment


              #7
              Just to add an update.. I manage to find a new-old-stock OEM turn signal assembly on ebay. The exact one! I went ahead and bought it since either I will break this one trying to fix it, or it may eventually break and will only be harder to find in the future. At least now I have a backup plan.

              Comment


                #8
                No need to break it. I take it the screws are undone that hold the little circuit board in? Try it one way and the other and it will come, it's probably dirty with old dialectric grease behind there. And yes make sure to catch the tiny ball bearings and spring. Good idea on buying the backup switch though, they are getting harder to find. Ha, ha. I went through the same on my 1100 last year. I ordered a new switch but in the mean time I fixed the old one and am still using it but I'm ready just in case....
                1986 1150EF
                2008 GS1250SEA

                Comment


                  #9
                  So I got the new one installed. Looks and works great.

                  Decided to take apart the old one to clean it up. Finally figured out how the switch removes. There was one little screw holding the circuit board in. Once you remove that, the whole assembly comes out, but the switch and slider stays inside the housing. THEN you can twist it 90 degrees to remove the button. But that's not necessary to remove the assembly.

                  I did pay close attention to the springs and ball bearing, but I can't seem to figure out where the two larger springs go. Everything else makes sense. Will go back and find your gallery and see if I can figure it out.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    In case you haven't found the photos yet. Scroll down until you find the photos... https://www.flickr.com/photos/18095073@N08/albums/72157667497870814

                    IMG_2278 by nessism, on Flickr
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Got it figured out. So there are two larger springs, and two smaller ones. The smaller ones go inside the slider, behind the two copper contacts to keep pressure as it slides left and right.

                      The two larger springs are for the up-down (high low beam), and the left right return. It's not obvious how they go, and still not obvious how they work. The red spring is the high low beam return spring. It sits in that little vertical channel. The blue spring is the left right return. It sits in the top horizontal channel under the slider.
                      IMG_3674.jpg

                      I had to be VERY gentle when re-assembling. The springs actually shot out by themselves twice, and they're tiny and really hard to find on the garage floor. Don't know how I managed to find them twice! This should be done in a small all white room with allot of light. Not a dark and dirty garage.

                      Anyway, it's all back together and working. Still not as good as the new one, but it does work. Will be an ok backup.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X