1982 GS550L Ignitor & Signal Generator test?

[car99r]

Anyone have the proper procedure and measurements to test these on the 1982?

I have a downloadable manual from Cliff's site but it does not list a test for these parts.

I checked the Signal Generator and getting 63.9 readings on both leads. According to some test I see it should be 250-500ohm but yet I seen someone post they had 60 ohm and it was good?

Only ignitor test I can find is for an 850 or newer GS550E. The plug(pins) are different than mine.

Thanks for any help in advance!!!

[Billy Ricks]

How many pins in the igniter socket that the signal generators plug into? if you have 4 pins I can post up a test for you.

[car99r]

How many pins in the igniter socket that the signal generators plug into? if you have 4 pins I can post up a test for you.

This bike has a seperate plug for the ignitor and then separate plug for the signal generator. The ignitor has 6 blades in it and the sig gen has 3.

[Billy Ricks]

Then you could just pull plugs 3 and 4 and place them in the plug caps and ground the plugs against the engine. Then with a wrench on the right end of the crank where the signal generators ore slowly crank the bike and watch for spark as the rotor passes the signal generator. This will confirm the igniter is working.

[car99r]

Would this work if the signal generator is bad?

I am not getting spark on any of the plugs. I tried the test as you mentioned with both coils. Will try again just to double check though.

[mike_of_bbg]

According to the Clymer manual, for a 1980-82 GS550, the reading should be 60-80 ohms. TSCC (83-86) models should have 250-500 ohms.

The Clymer manual test for the ignitor is to use an ohmmeter as a temp signal generator. Turn the bike on and unplug the sig gen. Ground the plugs against the head as noted, set your multimeter to the lowest ohm range, then connect the negative lead to the black/white ground lead. One at a time put the positive lead on the green/white or brown wires, which should simulate a signal from the sig gen and cause the coils to fire.

If your sig gen is testing OK, you might as well just turn the engine over as described.

Why are you testing these components? What are your symptoms?

[Billy Ricks]

According to the Clymer manual, for a 1980-82 GS550, the reading should be 60-80 ohms. TSCC (83-86) models should have 250-500 ohms.

The Clymer manual test for the ignitor is to use an ohmmeter as a temp signal generator. Turn the bike on and unplug the sig gen. Ground the plugs against the head as noted, set your multimeter to the lowest ohm range, then connect the negative lead to the black/white ground lead. One at a time put the positive lead on the green/white or brown wires, which should simulate a signal from the sig gen and cause the coils to fire.

If your sig gen is testing OK, you might as well just turn the engine over as described.

Why are you testing these components? What are your symptoms?

I figured it was one wire going to the signal generators and one from each going back to the igniter. Just wasn't sure of the colors.

You probably have already checked this, but is the fuse for the ignition good?

[mike_of_bbg]

What's your voltage at the coils?

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Here's a general procedure:

Ignitor/Signal Generator/Coil Test
(Tips from none other than Mr. Billy Ricks!)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[car99r]

According to the Clymer manual, for a 1980-82 GS550, the reading should be 60-80 ohms. TSCC (83-86) models should have 250-500 ohms.

The Clymer manual test for the ignitor is to use an ohmmeter as a temp signal generator. Turn the bike on and unplug the sig gen. Ground the plugs against the head as noted, set your multimeter to the lowest ohm range, then connect the negative lead to the black/white ground lead. One at a time put the positive lead on the green/white or brown wires, which should simulate a signal from the sig gen and cause the coils to fire.

If your sig gen is testing OK, you might as well just turn the engine over as described.

Why are you testing these components? What are your symptoms?

Well, that is good to hear. The reason for the test is no spark. I bought the bike dead. It kep blowing the main fuse as soon as you would turn the key on. I replaced the R/R with one frm duanage and it took care fo that fuse problem. However, still no spark. I was basically just going through the manual and testing things. Could not find a test for the 82 though. Think I have a Haynes manual and need a Clymer.

I figured it was one wire going to the signal generators and one from each going back to the igniter. Just wasn't sure of the colors.

You probably have already checked this, but is the fuse for the ignition good?

Yes, the bike has 5 total fuses and all checked good.

What's your voltage at the coils?

hhhmmm... I did not check this but will today after work. Since the coils test fine and the Sig Gen test good I am betting it is the Ignitor.

Is their an upgrade or anything for the Ignitor on the GS's like the R/R units? Either way it sounds like I will be inthe market for a good used one. Can't really afford a new one at this point.

Thanks

[mike_of_bbg]

Is their an upgrade or anything for the Ignitor on the GS's like the R/R units? Either way it sounds like I will be inthe market for a good used one. Can't really afford a new one at this point.

New ignitors, which are made of unobtanium, would be prohibitively expensive anyway. The used market is dicey. Some will come from "running" bikes but die after getting hot. Dyna S is the way to go @ about $130 or so - it replaces both the sig gen and ignitor on your bike.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=439

Before you go throwing $$$ at new electrical parts though, make sure you're getting voltage to the coils and check the coil resistances too (though it's unlikely that both coils failed at the same time - more likely a voltage problem to the coils).

[car99r]

New ignitors, which are made of unobtanium, would be prohibitively expensive anyway. The used market is dicey. Some will come from "running" bikes but die after getting hot. Dyna S is the way to go @ about $130 or so - it replaces both the sig gen and ignitor on your bike.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=439

Before you go throwing $$$ at new electrical parts though, make sure you're getting voltage to the coils and check the coil resistances too (though it's unlikely that both coils failed at the same time - more likely a voltage problem to the coils).

OK, I am a little lost. My bike has an electronic ignition unit. It does not have points and that says to replace points ignition??? This is an 82 model and that also says 80-81? Can I go ahead and go with the Dyna unit and just eliminate my ignitor altogether?

I checked resistance on coils and both are good. I am getting 4.8-5.0 on primary and 14.9-15.0 on secondary.

Will check voltage tonight.

[car99r]

Quick question,,,

What would be the proper way to check voltage at coils? I am guessing just probing the power in lines at the plugs with battery hooked up and full charge?

[mike_of_bbg]

The DS3-2 will work just fine with your bike - I installed one on my 82. If you go to Dyna's site you will find it is applicable to your model. The "ignitor", as it were, is built in to the sig gen on the DS.

(OK, Even Dyna's site says 77-81: but there's no difference 81->82. Note that the DS3-1 is only for KOK 77-79)

DS3-2
1977-81 Suzuki, 550/750/850/1000/1100 four cylinder (ND)

BassCliff recently posted an installation guide for the Dyna S on his site. That was replacing points - but just pull the sig gen and act like you pulled the points plate You can unplug the ignitor and leave it there.

One note from my install: Dyna includes a washer to use with the EI models. Unfortunately, it was a bit too thick and the rotor bound with the bolt when installed (i.e., it could not advance). The solution for me was to sand down the top of the new rotor. You might also try finding a thinner washer if that happens to you.

[mike_of_bbg]

Quick question,,,

What would be the proper way to check voltage at coils? I am guessing just probing the power in lines at the plugs with battery hooked up and full charge?

You are correct, sir.