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Where is my loose wire!?

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    Where is my loose wire!?

    Bike started fine, then I haggled out the air box to attempt to clean the carbs and now it doesnt want to start, so I am thinking I bumped a wire. It wouldnt start for a while, I shimmied some things around and then it did. Now it wont again. what is going on!?

    #2
    Which bike are you working on?

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      #3
      650G. The headlight wont turn on and it wont turn over. Whats the problem (besides a faulty owner)

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        #4
        Check your fuses.

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          #5
          There's a connector under that tank that can cause this. It's on the right side near the front.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #6
            Originally posted by almarconi View Post
            Check your fuses.
            First thing I did, they all seem to be good.

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              #7
              Seem is a relative term..do you own a volt-ohm meter?

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                #8
                I do not..

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                  #9
                  Probably the best money you will spend is on a VOM. Harbor freight should have one for probably less than $10. IMHO, kind of hard to diagnose and fix electrical problems with out one.

                  $2.99 at HF



                  $9.99 at HF

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                    #10
                    I agree with the others about the loose connector, but you may have diagnosed part of the problem yourself:
                    Originally posted by suzu650 View Post
                    Whats the problem (besides a faulty owner)
                    Yep, the nut that connects the handlebars to the seat just might need some adjusting.

                    .
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                    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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                      #11
                      tinkered a little more. The headlight/blinker/horn/choke accessory was a little loose and just hanging on the bars as i had not tightened it down yet. well when I pushed the 2 halves tight together I would get a little spark, but then the headlight would work and it started. so i put some carb cleaner and started it and gave it a little gas. the headlight got EXTREMELY bright then died (no more carb cleaner to run off of). tried starting it again and just made a buzzing sound from the starter and low beam no longer works. what happened!?

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                        #12
                        You R/R is toast.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                          #13
                          I dont know what an R/R is.. I dont know what happened, but it starts now. the first 2 times starting it would rev extremely high right away. now it idles fine but then slowly the idle creeps up.???

                          also, my low beam no longer works after this little extravaganza. is there a high bulb and low bulb? how do i fix this?

                          also also. choke is hard to push now, clutch is hard to pull, and the throttle is still a little difficult. I will prolly just play around with these tomorrow but any tips would be nice.

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                            #14
                            R/R stands for regulator/rectifier
                            The regulator keeps the voltage down so your headlight doesn't get as bright and blow out.
                            The rectifier turns A/C (alternating current) from the stator (charger) into D/C (direct current)
                            If your headlight is a sealed beam take it to an auto parts store and match it up. If it is just a bulb get the Silverstar part # 9003.
                            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                              #15
                              Hi,

                              Have you had a chance to check and clean (replace if necessary) every electrical connection and ground on the entire wiring harness - from the headlight bucket to the tail light? Don't forget to clean the fusebox too. You've got a 30 year old machine there. Do this and it will love you forever. Look on my website, particularly in the "Electrical Odds and Ends" section for tips.


                              Thank you for your indulgence,

                              BassCliff

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