I did have one weird thing happen to me. I was checking the stator with it unplugged and the bike running. My fuse box melted. Any ideas why this would have happened?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Suzuki GS 1150 Stator and RR
Collapse
X
-
toddchorton
Suzuki GS 1150 Stator and RR
I know this has been hashed a thousand times but I wanted to get some feedback. My GS1150 has a fried stator and RR. I want to get opinions about what is the best choice to fix this? I only want to do it once.
I did have one weird thing happen to me. I was checking the stator with it unplugged and the bike running. My fuse box melted. Any ideas why this would have happened?Last edited by Guest; 04-20-2010, 12:16 PM.Tags: None
-
Pete Logan
For what it's worth I'm going with the Electrosports heavy-duty units, with one of Duaneage's Honda units as a running spare just in case.
Belt, braces, double buckles and duct tape
-
toddchorton
I know I could probably just order Suzuki parts and ride but I would rather have a permanent fix if this is possible
I'm sure someone has the magic combination to this mystery lock
Comment
-
ScottMc1100L
Todd, you cooked both? Did one take out the other?
I'm not questioning it, but I find it surprising the need for a RR upgrade when these bikes stator output is as lame as it is. Reading some specs a while back (may have to dig these up) the competitions bikes charging systems had substantially higher output.
Todd if you could post some photos of your repair... ?
Comment
-
ScottMc1100L
Originally posted by toddchorton View PostI don't know if both of them are cooked but.....................The stator is not putting out enough juice for sure
Comment
-
toddchorton
-
Originally posted by ScottMc1100L View PostThe experts can correct me, but the stator either creates voltage or it doesn't? I need to do a search here myself.... Ringing it out with a multimeter should tell the tale.
The failure mechanism is pretty simple, the stator is a bunch of copper wire wound around poles to generate current when the rotor magnets pass by. The wire is insulated to keep it from shorting against the other windings. When it gets hot the insulation breaks down and the windings can short effectively limiting the output voltage. Once one leg is down, it means the insulation has gotten hot enough to short and you should consider changing at your earliest convenience. Unfortunately sometime this breakdown is intermittent and the system will appear to charge but after getting hot the stator will short and you end up running around on your battery eventually running it dead. In this intermitent case the no load AC voltage may pass (say when the enegine is cold) and short later when getting hot. Monitoring voltage at teh battery while riding will tell the story. At idle you should be about 13V with 1500 RPM idle(slower can dischage at say <12.5V). 14.5 ish at 3-4K RPM (this assumes there are no other issues as spelled out in the stator pages)Last edited by posplayr; 04-20-2010, 04:01 PM.
Comment
-
BassCliff
Hi,
It's all in The Stator Papers. If you want your charging system repairs to last, you must check and clean or repair every electrical connection and ground on the entire wiring harness, from the headlight bucket to the tail light, including the fuse box, solenoid and starter connections, molex and bullet connectors, turn signal stalks, that big fat ground wire between the negative battery terminal and the bottom of the engine, everything. Your bike will love you for it.
You'll find a list of electric part vendors in your "mega-welcome" or at my website on the READ ME page. I've used both Electrosport and RM Stator parts and had both fail before the warranty period. (Maybe because of my dirty wiring harness, which has since been cleaned up.) The current Electrosport part is hanging in there but I have a Rick's part as a spare in waiting.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
Comment
-
Originally posted by toddchorton View Post
What is an FET regulator rectifier?
Comment
-
ScottMc1100L
Comment