It's NOT the carbs, it's an Electrical problem...

[jbs80106]

if all else fails...

someone posted link for 1000 E in Denver for $375....

[LarryA_Texas]

fuel

I know you said it can't be the carbs but this sounds so much like a fuel issue that I'd bet money on it. Could it be that you have a fuel filter (in line or in the tank) that is slowing down the fuel flow?

I have seen it before...fuel flows through the filter and you think everything is normal until you check it against a new filter or an unfiltered line and then realize; "Shoot, it was running out of gas."

And by the time you get to the bowls to check them, enough fuel has dribbled back in to make them look 'normal.'

Anyway...that's my .02 worth.

[Colorado85gs550]

it's not possible to be a fuel problem! I eliminated my tank/petcock/filter and went to a straight line from a container used for carb tuning!!!! I even pulled my carbs after it died once and the bowls were full! It's NOT a fuel OR carb issue. I know what an engine does when it's running out of fuel.....this one is NOT.

I'm in the process of looking at my ignitor and we'll go from there I guess..........

And why 3 & 4 plugs.....why not 1 & 2?

[posplayr]

Larry D, I have a NEW ignition switch but all of the electrical is OEM . It does do this EVERYTIME I start it and I'm down to watching the clock because it will happen right around 10 minutes!


Pos, is there a sticky on the coil relay mod and what am I looking at for expense there? I'll check the voltage at the coils next time it does it as well as for spark....


Mike, are you sure Dyna S doesn't make one for my bike? How the heck would I find out how to retro one to work? It sounds like an overheating issue to me because it only does it once it's warmed up. Runs like a bat out of hell until then though.......

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=141055

Most infor you need to know is here. I made my mini harness so I could go back and forth between stock ignitor and dyna-S without removing the relay.

If you read through the link I have addressed most of the issues with installation; cost really is not an issue becuase it is at most $5-$7 by the time you get the a couple of Bosche relays and a mating connector. Get the water proof ones and mount in rubber or other flexible mount that doesnt transmit engibe vibration to the Relay.

The approach I took as to power the entire ignition circuit (coils and ignitor) with the relay.

If the ignitor is stopping working then you should see it stop signaling the coil. If you have a "dwell meter" it should go to 0 degrees' I'm guessing if the ignitor stops. Dwell meter hooks between ground and the negative side of the coil. Also used to measure RPM.

[Octain]

Isnt there a way to subscribe to a thread without making a post in it?
I'm interested in the outcome of this one.

[posplayr]

Isnt there a way to subscribe to a thread without making a post in it?
I'm interested in the outcome of this one.

see the attachment

[Theo]

Isnt there a way to subscribe to a thread without making a post in it?
I'm interested in the outcome of this one.

At the top of the thread you are viewing, you should see a menu titled "Thread Tools", click it and then select "subscribe to thread". But how will you get your post count up?

[Theo]

see the attachment

I type too slow.

[posplayr]

I type to slow.

Happens

[Colorado85gs550]

so I don't have an Ohm Meter......I'm going to replace the plugs first because it needs them anyways then I'm going to see about whether or not Autozone has ohm meter on their tool loan list and go from there.........I miss my Fluke from the Navy!

[Octain]

see the attachment

Got it, thanks!

[Octain]

so I don't have an Ohm Meter......I'm going to replace the plugs first because it needs them anyways then I'm going to see about whether or not Autozone has ohm meter on their tool loan list and go from there.........I miss my Fluke from the Navy!

You've not replaced the plugs?? Holy cow batman. I thought everyone around here would get tired of me saying it, over and over.. First thing that should be done. Actually should have some one hand..
Also, you can buy a little cheap multimeter at WalMart(of all places) for less than 20 bux?

Maybe I missed it but have ya dipped them carbs yet? While you're at auto zone getting your plugs get some carb dip, 20 bux
Ya know you're gonna have to do it sooner or later. MIght as well elimintate that little gremlin now while your hands are dirty.

[Colorado85gs550]

Thanks Oc,

I put my back-up plugs in 6 months ago when I installed the NEW Dynatek Green Coils/Wires...I didn't replace them yet

I REBUILT and DIPPED the carbs when I installed my Dynojet Stage 3 and my VERY RARE PODS . I've cleaned and blown them out with air twice in the past week while doing my investigation on the fuel system........my fuel system is TOP NOTCH!



This is going to have to wait for a couple of days now since I'm going to rotate on for the next 2 days at work....I'll see you guys Saturday.

[mike_of_bbg]

Well, if you replace your plugs you can have a couple to clean up and keep in your pocket/tank bag/whatever so you don't even have to pull plugs to test spark - just wires. I'll see if I can scan the ignitor/sig get test pages from my GS550 Clymer manual. Note though that if you have transistors overheating you may well get good tests on marginal components. Just saying.

[bobiii84]

Similar issue

I've been reading through your forum and I'm having similar problems. I have a 1980 GS550L that I recently picked up from a family member. The bike seemed to run fine when I first got it but when I moved it on my truck it started having issues. I had it out in a parking lot teaching my friend to ride when he stalled it and I couldn't get it restarted. I eventually got it started by push-starting it (tough on level ground btw) After I got it started I had to keep on the throttle because it didn't want to stay running once it started up. I got it home and let it cool, when I got home it started right up! Once it warmed up I cut the engine and tried to restart and it just cranked. My Grandfather seems to think it's the fuel petcock being fickle but I ran some tests and disagree. First I installed a fuel shut-off valve and cut it off before shutting off the bike. Still just cranked and wouldn't start. Then I took off and dismantled the fuel petcock. Seems fine to me although there is only a tiny pinhole that changes from "on" to "prime" and I was under the impression that prime just dumped fuel in even with no suction. Tommorow I'm going to take it out and see if it just dies on me while riding but I'm very interested to see how this works out. I hope you figure this out but if I find something I will let you know. Good luck!