Wiring New Gauge Set - Koso Gauges

[posplayr]

When you tell me what that damn black yellow wire is!

Normally all Tachs I have any experience with hook to the negative side (Black/Yellow) of the coil which is the side that the ignitor connects to. If you hook to the + side (Orange/White) it wont work.

[salty_monk]

Thanks mate, I have removed the old one & dug out the spare plug set I have for it so now it's a case of wiring it up & seeing what happens!

I had a bicycle speedo on it for a while for an accurate speed readout & that worked pretty well for 20 bucks so I'm hoping this works even better!

Any thoughts on how to turn my sidestand -ve into a +ve so I can use the hazard light for the side stand? I'm guessing only with a relay using the neg side to switch it?

[posplayr]

Thanks mate, I have removed the old one & dug out the spare plug set I have for it so now it's a case of wiring it up & seeing what happens!

I had a bicycle speedo on it for a while for an accurate speed readout & that worked pretty well for 20 bucks so I'm hoping this works even better!

Any thoughts on how to turn my sidestand -ve into a +ve so I can use the hazard light for the side stand? I'm guessing only with a relay using the neg side to switch it?

You can invert polarity with a relay, but you can also posibly swap out the kickstand switch so are normally open and others normally closed.

I think GSs are normally open and close to turn on the cluster light.

Other interlocks have it the other way. IIRC GSXR's are opposite. You can check their manual to deduce.

[salty_monk]

Aha, that makes sense, I didn't think of it in terms of simply being a NO /NC switch closing a circuit!

Thanks!

[posplayr]

Aha, that makes sense, I didn't think of it in terms of simply being a NO /NC switch closing a circuit!

Thanks!

You can look here for a saftey interlock I deviced for a GS1100E that used different combinations of logical "OR", "AND" to implement the interlock logic. Relays, diodes and NO/NC switchs.

If you write it out as a "truth table", and reduce to a logic equation it makes it easier sometimes.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=143674&highlight=safety+interlock

[posplayr]

U will see the process for different combinations here.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1026173&postcount=23

[salty_monk]

On those Koso instructions there is a big note stating to make sure the Tach signal comes from coil + otherwise the meter could break....

I thought the Orange White was coil +? Am I wrong??

[posplayr]

On those Koso instructions there is a big note stating to make sure the Tach signal comes from coil + otherwise the meter could break....

I thought the Orange White was coil +? Am I wrong??

Dan,
You should probably call tech support if you can. From looking at the documentation there seems to be three different methods that could be used to drive the tach signal.

A seems to be wrapping a wire around the #1 coil wire.
B seems to be measuring from the RPM pickup
C seems to use the coils (Electrode???) which shoudl be the low side control from the ignitor.

In other words any signal that pulses, they will do an edge detect and count those edges for the Tach display.

[tejasmud]

On those Koso instructions there is a big note stating to make sure the Tach signal comes from coil + otherwise the meter could break....

I thought the Orange White was coil +? Am I wrong??

There are 2 orange with white trace wires and these feed the coils 12v. They should be at 12v all day long, with the kill switch on. They feed back into the harness and are crimp spliced into the positive off the igniter.. which also feeds back to the kill switch.

The black yellow trace goes to #2 and #3, white goes to #1 and #4. These are your pulse, or trigger wires (edit: at the igniter) . the break in the signal at the igniter on the black/yellow and white wires cause the coil to fire.

I edited this, and deleted the last post. Too much info not relevent.


Let me back up some. Sorry.

Black with yellow trace feeds the Original Tach.

Did you connect to this yet?




E

[salty_monk]

No I didn't as I didn't want to risk busting the gauge. It expressly says + side of the coil. When B/y pulses surely that signal must be + too or does it provide a temp ground for the coil to make it fire

Have emailed their tech support but no answer yet.

[salty_monk]

Got through to Tech support today. Pierre - French Canadian by the sounds of it but good English.

He advised me that I should just connect up to that B/Y wire for the original stock Tach & select the "Hi" rating along with 4 cycle, 4 cylinder.

He said that the internal protection inside the gauge is pretty good & that I won't break anything if this doesn't work so I'll try to get it wired in & tested this week.

Dan

[posplayr]

Got through to Tech support today. Pierre - French Canadian by the sounds of it but good English.

He advised me that I should just connect up to that B/Y wire for the original stock Tach & select the "Hi" rating along with 4 cycle, 4 cylinder.

He said that the internal protection inside the gauge is pretty good & that I won't break anything if this doesn't work so I'll try to get it wired in & tested this week.

Dan

That is what I figured, but I did not want to ASSUME and make an A$$ out of U and ME.

Now-a-days all sensor inputs are pretty much very high imdpedance and very difficult to burn them up unless you seriously overvoltage (100 volts) or ESD spike (thousands of volts). With an adequate ESD/EMI protected design the input should be tolerant of most stuff and be selecteable as the instructions suggest.

[tejasmud]

Glad to see you have it sorted. Can't wait to see it set up.

I know all too well the feeling of not wanting to "smoke" anything. The Innovate DAQ I run is way too expensive to just guess at wiring as well. First time set-up was nerve racking.

On the Koso instruction sheet the picture is a CDI ignition. A little different than a GS, and they only have one positive lead.

The main "Caution" is never hook a gauge to the plug wire directly.


1000s of volts, and it will "smoke" a gauge pretty quick.


Wrapping the lead around the plug wire is okay; in this case the wire is basically picking up the pulse inductively. Point and condenser ignition can be hooked up this way. On a CDI ignition the pulse through the plug wires are too short in duration to be sensed inductively, so the RPM sense needs to come off the Primary wire (+) to the coil.

The B/y and W are +, until the igniter is triggered, and could basically say it grounds the wire inside the igniter box through the boxes negitive. Similar to how the signal is cut by the points on point/condenser systems.




Oh, this was some of the "not relevent info" before.




E

[salty_monk]

Seems relevant to me...

Thanks

Will post pics etc when I have it set up - I may even make a video to keep Jim happy but I think the fancy music might be above & beyond for me

[posplayr]

Seems relevant to me...

Thanks

Will post pics etc when I have it set up - I may even make a video to keep Jim happy but I think the fancy music might be above & beyond for me

I'll just have to be ready and turn up my Ipod