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Hi, I'm just going through a few things on my wiring harness and I thought I should pass a few things along.
Turns out I don't need to do a coil relay mod.
Batt voltage is 12.6v, coil is 9.86v so I thought that was a little too much voltage drop and started investigating.
By going right to the ignition key switch there are 4 wires, one is Red and one is Orange, the others don't mater for this.
Red is direct power and Orange is where power gets applied with the key on.
Here is where it gets interesting:
By following the red wire its pretty straight forward, from the main fuse and RR to the key switch. However, if i measure the voltage at the batt to ground and at the key to ground while all the lights are on and that wire is under about 8 amps of load I get 1.9 v drop just in 4 feet of 18ga wire.
Replaced that with a 14ga Aircraft spec wire and now .05v drop. That's better.
Better yet: I followed the Orange wire that eventually gets to the Run switch and turns into the Orange/White wire that powers the coil and Ignitor and what a long run !!
It starts at the ignition switch goes 6 feet to the rear brake light switch, splices into another orange wire, comes back 4 feet to a wimpy little splice into 4 more wires and then one of those go to the Run Switch where it goes another 4 feet down the harness the coils and 2 more to the ignitor.
What the hell :P why such a long run?
So here is what this post is for:
I replaced the main red wire to the switch.
Followed orange the wire down the harness about a foot and added another splice from that orange wire to other orange wire going to the run switch and the voltage drop is much better.
Now voltage at the batt is 12.6 same load as before 8 amps and coil voltage is 11.98.
Much better,
Oh and one more thing... By turning on any accessory or lights I don't notice any dimming of any other lights.
Thanks for reading
Turns out I don't need to do a coil relay mod.
Batt voltage is 12.6v, coil is 9.86v so I thought that was a little too much voltage drop and started investigating.
By going right to the ignition key switch there are 4 wires, one is Red and one is Orange, the others don't mater for this.
Red is direct power and Orange is where power gets applied with the key on.
Here is where it gets interesting:
By following the red wire its pretty straight forward, from the main fuse and RR to the key switch. However, if i measure the voltage at the batt to ground and at the key to ground while all the lights are on and that wire is under about 8 amps of load I get 1.9 v drop just in 4 feet of 18ga wire.
Replaced that with a 14ga Aircraft spec wire and now .05v drop. That's better.
Better yet: I followed the Orange wire that eventually gets to the Run switch and turns into the Orange/White wire that powers the coil and Ignitor and what a long run !!
It starts at the ignition switch goes 6 feet to the rear brake light switch, splices into another orange wire, comes back 4 feet to a wimpy little splice into 4 more wires and then one of those go to the Run Switch where it goes another 4 feet down the harness the coils and 2 more to the ignitor.
What the hell :P why such a long run?
So here is what this post is for:
I replaced the main red wire to the switch.
Followed orange the wire down the harness about a foot and added another splice from that orange wire to other orange wire going to the run switch and the voltage drop is much better.
Now voltage at the batt is 12.6 same load as before 8 amps and coil voltage is 11.98.
Much better,
Oh and one more thing... By turning on any accessory or lights I don't notice any dimming of any other lights.
Thanks for reading
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