Confounded, but well-grounded

[Mekanix]

Your meter is fine IF :

1 battery is good in the meter (9V)

2 when you switch it to DC touch both meter leads together and it should go to 0.000 and stay there as long as,

I have that same meter with no problems Electromagnetic interference.

3 your meter leads might be broken , so just set your meter to OHM (resistance) Press the top left button twice and it should be set for continuity. Now just touch the two leads together and you will get a solid BEEEEEEP , That means your leads are good.

4 Set it to DCV and press the Range button twice, IT will show 00.00 V

5 touch the leads on the battery , You should get a solid 11-12 V without any flickering.


I think the meter is fine but I could be wrong. Do the above to prove it does work.


I don't know what you were measuring in that video.



Here is what you are trying to prove

1 the stator is not shorted,
- to its own wires
- to ground.
- And at 5000 RPM, If you measure between one wire to the other and then to the other you get 75 AC Volts or more. ( you have to unhook them from the RR) If your not sure which ones I mean there are only two bundles coming from beside the sproket cover. One goes forward and one goes back. you want the one going back that only has 3 wires in it.


2 The RR is:
A. Rectifying, (turning the ac voltage from the stator to a rippled DC voltage)
B. Regulating, ( No mater how much AC voltage is coming in, It will not allow more than 14.5 VDC to come out the red wire)



3 Your wiring is good:

So you could have a bad ground from your frame to the RR or from the frame to the battery or from the frame to wiring harness Or from the Red RR wire to the battery.

So first things first: (checking for stray voltage and current loss)
This means that if you connect a wire from one spot to another and run power through it, that it can't carry all that power from where it started to where it ended. If you put your meter on one end of the wire and the other end of the wire, You might get as much as 2 Volts and you should realistically get less than .5 V.


With the bike running just slightly above idle ( 1300-+) put one lead on the battery positive and one on the negative, ( which one goes where doesn't matter your only looking for a number)

You get : XX.XX DCV (11.56v- 13.5) No more than 14.5 ever.


Leave the one on the positive and put the second one on the red wire coming from the RR. Leave the wire from the RR connected to the bikes red wire and just poke into the bullet connector until it gives you a steady reading.

You get : XX.XX DCV ( 0.00-1 vdc )

- you might get more, If so that means your bullet conectors or that red wire is not allowing enough power through it.
And your charging system is good and the power is just not getting where it should.



Next stray voltage to ground:

- Put one lead on a frame ground and with the bike still running put the other one on the where ever the black wire from the RR is going to ,

You get : XX.XX DCV ( 0.00-1 vdc ) Any more means bad connections.


Then from frame to the battery and you should get the same number as before

You get : XX.XX DCV ( 0.00-1 vdc )


The ground on these bikes are terible, so its a good idea to make a wire and connect it from the ground that the RR is connected to all the way to where the battery negative is connected to.





What do you get from :

Battery voltage :


stator wire 1 to 2 :
stator wire 1 to 3 :
stator wire 2 to 3 :


Battery + to bullet connector on RR' red wire:

RR Ground to Frame ground :

RR ground to battery - :


RR Ground to RR red wire :


Thanks ,

[Jagir]

Your meter is fine IF :

1 battery is good in the meter (9V)

2 when you switch it to DC touch both meter leads together and it should go to 0.000 and stay there as long as,

I have that same meter with no problems Electromagnetic interference.

3 your meter leads might be broken , so just set your meter to OHM (resistance) Press the top left button twice and it should be set for continuity. Now just touch the two leads together and you will get a solid BEEEEEEP , That means your leads are good.

4 Set it to DCV and press the Range button twice, IT will show 00.00 V

5 touch the leads on the battery , You should get a solid 11-12 V without any flickering.


I think the meter is fine but I could be wrong. Do the above to prove it does work.


I don't know what you were measuring in that video.

THanks for the elucidation.
Tomorrow I will pick up another multimeter AND a new battery and test the first multimeter. The leads on it are goofy pointy things, I want to switch those to clips anyway. The OHM test always checks out, even when i flail the wires around which is why I thought it was ok, but I would like to be extra sure.

Hopefully I can also haul the bike out and do the tests. Sorry neighbours

the video is: black multimeter lead to battery+, red multimeter lead to red output of R/R.

[Jagir]

this test...

[Jagir]

led me to this.

[Jagir]

I'll make a whole new fusebox spider tonight and put it on tomorrow.

[Mekanix]

You could add two fuses.


you see the two red wires going into the fuse holder.

1 goes to the the electrical system and the other one to the RR

Cut them and add one fuse to one and one fuse to the other.


I even removed the small red wire going to the battery terminal and used the solenoid's battery connection as the main power feeder from the battery to the RR and from the battery to the electrical system.


You will have one fuse from the RR to the battery that is fused at 15 amps and one from the battery to the bikes electrical system fused at 15 amps


That way your charging system will blow a fuse when it fails.

As you can see by the picture. If the regulator Fails on your bike the way it is wired, It will definitely send all its power to the electrical system if it stops regulating and possibly fry something just because its directly wired in without a fuse.

The main fuse could blow and that is the last thing holding the voltage down.

Luckily when my originals went It blew the main fuse and the head light and everything was dim after. But It got me home because only one of the 3 parts of the 3 phase charging system failed and it was still regulating well enough if I kept the RPM's down.

I honestly didn't know anything was wrong untill my turn signals wouldn't flash below certain RPM's

[Jagir]

I removed the old fuse box and replaced it with a new one. No change in performance (turn signal still solid until 3000 RPM for the left one, 5500 for the right one)
I then replaced all signal light bulbs with the same type as there had been one or two funky ones in there. All of the sudden, the turn signal blinks as it should on left side, but not the right. I wonder if the brake lights should also be changed?

The last thing I did today was to cut off the little plastic 'retarder' on the underside of the headlight switch. Now I can shut the headlight off.

I hope to go on a short trip tomorrow so that's all for now. Will work on more of this after Monday. There is a battery charger at my destination, just in case.

[Mekanix]

Check how much voltage you have now with the new fuse holder.

if its good check at the orange wire from your turn signal relay to ground, you should have the same voltage,

If the first test is low and the second test is the same then its still a charging issue.

If the first one is good and the second is low then its wiring and we can narrow it down from there.

By using that switch it does two things, 1 removes one part of the charging system and disconnects power to the headlight.

Unless you wired the stator directly to the RR already that is.