I need a new R/R.

[pistolpete]

I recently bought a new R/R from electrosport, after installing it in my bike i found that it is overcharging (18-19volts). I went through the stator papers and went through the flow chart several times and after installing all new spade connectors and grounding the R/R directly to the battery, all the tests indicate a bad R/R. I called electrosport and left several messages. After a week someone finally called me back and had me check the voltage coming out of the R/R with the power and ground disconnected from the battery (120volts) and e-mail back the results. It has been another week and i still haven't heard anything from them I am tired of playing the this game. I'm just going to cut my losses and get a difeferent one. I checked out the compatible fet ones on basscliffs website but i don't want sift through e-bay and hope that i get a good one. Any suggestions?

[salty_monk]

Buy a fully tested Honda one from Duanage....

[posplayr]

Your voltages sound too high, so I'm wondering if you are measuring things correctly and you end up throwing the baby out with the bath water.

I would first reconnect everything up as has been described. But also take a quick look at the grounding in the link on GS Charging Health in my signature to make sure you have the basic ground connections correct.

Then put your meter to DC and connect it across the battery and give me 5 voltages readings (at the same point).

1. key OFF
2. Key ON (but not cranking with lights on)
3. Voltage at Idle (say 1500 RPM)
4. Voltage at 5000 RPM
5. Voltage key off

Start here and we will proceed after these tests.

[jbs80106]

My experience....

getting a warrantee replacement from electrosport when my 'new' R/R failed a few months after I installed it too some time just as you are describing. I did in fact one day receive a replacement one, can't recall if I even ever returned the bad one.

[pistolpete]

ok i went home and checked the voltages.

1. key off.....12.45volts
2. key on (but not cranking with lights on).....11.77volts
3. voltage at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts
4. voltage at 5000 rpm.....17.5volts and climbing
5. voltage key off.....13.5volts

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Have you checked and cleaned all of the electrical connections in your wiring harness, particularly the fuse box, ignition switch, solenoid connections, ground straps, etc? Have you run the ground wire from the r/r directly to the negative battery terminal?

Check out these links...

More On The Stator Papers
GS Charging System Health


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[pistolpete]

i did run a new ground from the battery to the R/R and also ran a new positive as well. I replaced all the connectors to the R/R. i have checked and made sure that the connection at the fuse box and ignition are clean and have good contact. Unless there are any other diagnostic procedures, or have overlooked a step I'm pretty convinced it's the R/R.

[posplayr]

ok i went home and checked the voltages.

1. key off.....12.45volts
2. key on (but not cranking with lights on).....11.77volts
3. voltage at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts
4. voltage at 5000 rpm.....17.5volts and climbing
5. voltage key off.....13.5volts

Wow OK great;

(#4, #5 compared to #1) That means that you are charging (stator is good),
(#2) Your battery is good
(#17.5)But you are not regulating (stator good; R/R bad).


Since this is an 5 wire Electrosport R/R there is not much to do but send it back.

Do you have a coil relay mod?

If you donot (and dont plan to), then I would get an FET based one.

If you do have a Coil relay mod and don't want to F with e-bay then get a Duanage Honda (6 wire) regulator it is cheap and tested.

If you get a Honda 6 wire (uses a sense wire) and don't have the coil relay mod, you can have problems.

[crapwacker]

Wow OK great;

(#4, #5 compared to #1) That means that you are charging (stator is good),
(#2) Your battery is good
(#17.5)But you are not regulating (stator good; R/R bad).


Since this is an 5 wire Electrosport R/R there is not much to do but send it back.

Do you have a coil relay mod?

If you donot (and dont plan to), then I would get an FET based one.

If you do have a Coil relay mod and don't want to F with e-bay then get a Duanage Honda (6 wire) regulator it is cheap and tested.

If you get a Honda 6 wire (uses a sense wire) and don't have the coil relay mod, you can have problems.

The honda rr I just picked up (not from Duanage) has 6 terminals. Should I wire all 6, as well as using the coil relay?

[pistolpete]

I don't have the relay mod done the bikes wiring is completly stock except for what i did with the R/R wiring, but i checked out the relay mod on bassclifs website and it looks like your just bypassing the factory switches and running a new power feed from the battery to the coils using the relay, looks pretty simple and if thats what i have to do to have a reliable charging system than thats what i'll do. Where do i get a duanage honda regulator?

[posplayr]

The honda rr I just picked up (not from Duanage) has 6 terminals. Should I wire all 6, as well as using the coil relay?

The issue that can occur with the Honda sense wire is that you have a difficult time finding something that is switched that doesn't get pulled down by the load current coming through the switch.

Since the coil relay mod shoudl only have teh drop from teh relay and teh conenctions to it (i.e. no switch), it provides teh best type of reference.

The reason it typically needs switching is because the sense wire pulls current when the bike is off. It will pull the battery voltage down unless it is switched off.

[crapwacker]

I don't have the relay mod done the bikes wiring is completly stock except for what i did with the R/R wiring, but i checked out the relay mod on bassclifs website and it looks like your just bypassing the factory switches and running a new power feed from the battery to the coils using the relay, looks pretty simple and if thats what i have to do to have a reliable charging system than thats what i'll do. Where do i get a duanage honda regulator?

pm Duanage. I found a Honda Rubicon form an 06 on ebay for $25. I don't know what he'll charge, but I wish I would've checked!

[posplayr]

I don't have the relay mod done the bikes wiring is completly stock except for what i did with the R/R wiring, but i checked out the relay mod on bassclifs website and it looks like your just bypassing the factory switches and running a new power feed from the battery to the coils using the relay, looks pretty simple and if thats what i have to do to have a reliable charging system than thats what i'll do. Where do i get a duanage honda regulator?

The coil relay mod is simple that it avoids the voltage drops of the ignition and right hand switch for the ignition circuit. It doesnt directly improve anything about charging unless you use the Honda R/R.

Here is a link to doing the Coil Relay mod without having to be too intrusive into your harness. You should be able to follow it even though it is for the Dyna S. I can switch back and forth between stock and Dyna S using this configuration.

Make sure you get rid of the stator loop going to the left hand switch.

And get rid of the bullet between the fuse box and the positive battery terminal.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=141055

PM: duaneage for the Honda Relay $40 tested

[crapwacker]

The issue that can occur with the Honda sense wire is that you have a difficult time finding something that is switched that doesn't get pulled down by the load current coming through the switch.

Since the coil relay mod shoudl only have teh drop from teh relay and teh conenctions to it (i.e. no switch), it provides teh best type of reference.

The reason it typically needs switching is because the sense wire pulls current when the bike is off. It will pull the battery voltage down unless it is switched off.

Following that logic, then it SHOULD use the sense wire?

[posplayr]

Following that logic, then it SHOULD use the sense wire?

Sorry, Honda has to have the 6th wire connected to the actual voltage you are trying to control.

If you leave it open the R/R will not regulate at all.