No spark at plugs

[Craig54]

No spark at plugs
Dyna coils
Test 13v+ from negitive at battery to where the 4 orange wires connect to the front of the coils
good earth tests 13v+ pos battery to where negitive attached at coils
when I earth plugs and turn it over no spark
Any ideas? Just pulled air box and refitted.
help need a ride this weekend

[posplayr]

No spark at plugs
Dyna coils
Test 13v+ from negitive at battery to where the 4 orange wires connect to the front of the coils
good earth tests 13v+ pos battery to where negitive attached at coils
when I earth plugs and turn it over no spark
Any ideas? Just pulled air box and refitted.
help need a ride this weekend

Either using your volt meter or a test light look for the volatge on the negative side of the coils (the side attached to the ignitor B/Y and B) if they move up and down in voltage as you crank the engine over.

Min voltage is 1.5V ;
max is 12V (or there abouts)

If there is no spark then we already knowthat volatge is not going up and down (assuming coils are good).

There is an ignition test sequence here as well. but the test above shoudl be adequate from where you are.

If not the ignitor is bad.

[Craig54]

no spark at plugs

Either using your volt meter or a test light look for the volatge on the negative side of the coils (the side attached to the ignitor B/Y and B) if they move up and down in voltage as you crank the engine over.

Min voltage is 1.5V ;
max is 12V (or there abouts)

If there is no spark then we already knowthat volatge is not going up and down (assuming coils are good).

There is an ignition test sequence here as well. but the test above shoudl be adequate from where you are.

If not the ignitor is bad.

Voltage at coils 12v at all 4 connections on coil with key on and around 9v when cranking over.

[posplayr]

Voltage at coils 12v at all 4 connections on coil with key on and around 9v when cranking over.

The voltage has to move up and down as I described. Not sure you tested for that. If you are getting constant 9V out the ignitor is dead or the pickup is not working.

One last hope is to pull of the cover and see what the pickup looks like.

I forgot to ask Are you running points or DynaS or stock ignitor?

[Craig54]

no spark at plugs

The voltage has to move up and down as I described. Not sure you tested for that. If you are getting constant 9V out the ignitor is dead or the pickup is not working.

One last hope is to pull of the cover and see what the pickup looks like.

I forgot to ask Are you running points or DynaS or stock ignitor?

No points dyna coils standard electronic ingition
I am doing the tests with the battery on charge.
I noticed after turning it over for a while the battery drops to around 10.5v, could this be causing the problem.
Also if the ignition is left on while doind testing the right coil gets warm but the left one doesnt.

[Sparky]

might also check that the wires arent corroded and not making good enough contact to get spark. When I test fired my bike the first time it fired, then after I shut it off it wouldnt fire at all. Turned out the wire inside the plug wires was corroded and gunked up. I snipped off about 1/2" or so and put the boots back on and was good to go.

[Craig54]

no spark at plugs

might also check that the wires arent corroded and not making good enough contact to get spark. When I test fired my bike the first time it fired, then after I shut it off it wouldnt fire at all. Turned out the wire inside the plug wires was corroded and gunked up. I snipped off about 1/2" or so and put the boots back on and was good to go.

no spark on all 4 at all
i found the earth wire to the coils had melted at one point and touched the frame so something is dead
doesnt sound good

[ironmonger]

Ignitor problems

I have recently pulled my GS1100E out of storage and began a general 'fixin up'.
In addition to a valve problem I also discovered a bad ignitor. Unlike many other devices these days, the ignitor is not potted in epoxy.
I was able to open it up and found that one of power transistors was bad. I, for a change, have documented the dis-assembly of the ignitor, and have ordered spare transistors. If this repair is successful I will post my procedure so that others can repair their ignitors. Parts cost, if the substitution that I have selected is successful, will be about $10 plus my time... I work cheep for myself... so can you.
Paul

[posplayr]

I have recently pulled my GS1100E out of storage and began a general 'fixin up'.
In addition to a valve problem I also discovered a bad ignitor. Unlike many other devices these days, the ignitor is not potted in epoxy.
I was able to open it up and found that one of power transistors was bad. I, for a change, have documented the dis-assembly of the ignitor, and have ordered spare transistors. If this repair is successful I will post my procedure so that others can repair their ignitors. Parts cost, if the substitution that I have selected is successful, will be about $10 plus my time... I work cheep for myself... so can you.
Paul

Not sure which ignitor you are rebuilding, but here is a thread over at Gixxer.com on similar efforts. The main issues seem to by electrolytic capacitors. The epoxy glue also apparently breaksdown and causes shorts with age. I'm looking at my 83 1100ED ignitor and it appears to be a sealed potted unit so I'm not sure it is practical with that one. Take plenty of pics with parts ordered. Digikey part numbers always helps.

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262319&highlight=ignitor+repair

[Craig54]

no spark at plugs

Ok sent the bike to the shop
The CDI unit has blown and they said they can have them rebuilt/repaired for $250 plus fitting
How does that sound for cost??
Whats inside them (its not sealed in epoxy) can I test and replace components like capacitors and transistors or drop it in to the local electronics shop??