R/R Checking

[rcoville]

I started a thread on the weekend looking for opinions on a brand of R/R unit. The reply I got back suggested checking on connections, then running some tests on the charging system to see if the R/R unit was in fact faulty.

Sunday night I got down under the seat and air filter to the connector behind the R/R unit. It was wrapped up solid in electrical tape. When I cut it free, I found the connector had been partially melted, bare wires and a whole lot of black silicone applied to hold it all together. What a mess. I have attached pictures.

It is incredible to me how this bike was functioning almost flawlessly, even with this going on. A failure at this plug would have been not only inconvenient, but probably costly as well.

I have re-done all connections properly, and am currently topping up the battery prior to running a complete diagnostic on the charging system.

Lesson learned. I should have checked it earlier, but fortunately no harm done this time.

[bonanzadave]

fortunately no harm done this time.

I speak for myself and most likely every other GSuzuki owner out there. That connector is a sign of things to come. Monitor your charging voltage closely and start a $40 RR fund. Youll need one sooner or later. Keep Duane's contact info close.

[rcoville]

System Test Results

I just finished Phase A of the tests of the charging system. Here are the results. Keep in mind this bike has headlights on when running. The initial battery reading is with ignition and lights off.

Battery @ full charge: 13.25 v
Idle speed (~ 1400 rpm): 12.53 v
@ 2000 rpm: 12.80 v
@ 4000 rpm: 13.60 v
@ 5000 rpm: 14.20 v

Based on these readings, I am fairly certain my system is operating normally. Am I correct?

Rick

[TheCafeKid]

I personally would like to see it charging a bit better at lower RPM. What's the V at idle with the brake light on??

[hikermikem]

I personally would like to see it charging a bit better at lower RPM.

Also, if you haven't done so already, run a dedicated ground from the RR to the battery (-) terminal... that may increase the charging voltage at lower RPM's.

[bonanzadave]

Youll need one sooner or later.

Based on these readings, I am fairly certain my system is operating normally. Am I correct?

I think its sooner than later . If you dont get a solid 14-14.5 vdc above 2k its time to call Duane.

[posplayr]

I just finished Phase A of the tests of the charging system. Here are the results. Keep in mind this bike has headlights on when running. The initial battery reading is with ignition and lights off.

Battery @ full charge: 13.25 v
Idle speed (~ 1400 rpm): 12.53 v
@ 2000 rpm: 12.80 v
@ 4000 rpm: 13.60 v
@ 5000 rpm: 14.20 v

Based on these readings, I am fairly certain my system is operating normally. Am I correct?

Rick

That is pretty good, but it would be nice to know what the drops are across the leads running between R/R and battery.

Pick a point as close to the R/R connections as you can and measure directly at the battery posts on the other side (stab the center posts).

Even though your voltages are not bad, (just a little low), we don’t know if the R/R is regulating at 14.8V and you are dropping 0.6 volts in the connections. That is bad because it will likely just get worse and smoke the stator.

I have also noted if the battery is not full charged, that the battery voltage is a little low because of the limited charging capacity of the stator.

Bottom line is that at this point measuring the voltage drops is key. At 5000 rpm they should both be below 0.2V.

This has nothing to do with the R/R all to do with connections. Do Phase A steps 2 and 3 and report back the voltage drops. If you have to stab the wire at the R/R (because you have no connectors) do that or slide the probe up under the shrink wrap.

[rcoville]

I ran the positive leads test. Here are the results:

@ idle (~1200 RPM): varies from -0.17 to -0.20 v
@ 5000 rpm: -0.33 v

I did not run a negative leads test. My R/R unit has a dedicated BLK / WT wire running to a ground on the frame near the fuse box. I disconnected that and ran it direct to the negative post on the battery, as suggested.

Many thanks for all your comments and help so far.

Rick

[posplayr]

I ran the positive leads test. Here are the results:

@ idle (~1200 RPM): varies from -0.17 to -0.20 v
@ 5000 rpm: -0.33 v

I did not run a negative leads test. My R/R unit has a dedicated BLK / WT wire running to a ground on the frame near the fuse box. I disconnected that and ran it direct to the negative post on the battery, as suggested.

Many thanks for all your comments and help so far.

Rick

actually this is what I suggest for the grounding.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152769

The voltage is going up as RPM goes up because you are pushing more current through a resistance. current times resistance is voltage drop (Ohms Law)It is somewhere in the positive lead between R/R and Battery

Most likely it is the large bullet connector between the plug going to th e fuse box and the battery. Swap it out for a spade or solder directly.While you are not charging poorly; it is marginal and if that resistance goes up any further you wont be able to charge above 14V

[rcoville]

Gounding done

Thanks very much for your help. I modified the grounding and re-terminated the positive lead this morning.

It's probably listed somewhere else in these forums (and I'm going to look for it) but I am curious where the sixth wire from a Honda R/R unit would be connected. I assume the other five match up to the existing 5 leads on the GS.

Thanks again.
Rick

[posplayr]

Thanks very much for your help. I modified the grounding and re-terminated the positive lead this morning.

It's probably listed somewhere else in these forums (and I'm going to look for it) but I am curious where the sixth wire from a Honda R/R unit would be connected. I assume the other five match up to the existing 5 leads on the GS.

Thanks again.
Rick

so have you chamged the R/R now to a Honda unit?

if you dont have the coil relay mod, then then this way

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1211161&postcount=21

if you do have a coil relay mod

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1211163&postcount=22

[rcoville]

Hi: No, I still have the original Suzuki unit and have done the wiring clean-up and grounding as detailed in this thread.

I had noted somewhere in the readings thus far that should a change-out of the R/R unit become necessary, one option would be to get a more robust Honda unit. I also read somewhere it had a sixth lead (well, actually 8, but there are 2 reds to twin together and 2 grounds to twin together) leaving a sixth wire. It was this extra I was curious about.

I did some research in here and found it should run to an ignition-controlled wire, such as the license plate light supply.

Thanks again
Rick