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GS1100GL Stator and R/R

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    #1

    GS1100GL Stator and R/R

    I am really confused.

    I had problems last year with the bike. Connector from the stator to the R/R was melted. Broke connector apart and lots of corrosion. Cleaned all connectors (flat blade) and taped them up. Bike runs fine till end of season, won't start, acts like low battery. Leave it sit till this spring. Pull the battery and it is bone dry. Add acid, won't hold a charge. Pull battery from son's bike and put it in mine. Start bike (with much trouble) and notice the stator connections are really hot. Decide to cut the connector and solder all wires. In the meantime I find this site. What a Godsend.

    I decided to check everything out according to the posts here. Start the bike and the V accross the battery climbs and continue to climb to 17 volts before I shut it down. I had already soldered the wires, and they are no longer hot.

    I cut the solder joints and check the stator and from lead to lead I get 0.000 ohms. According to the info, this says the stator is shot. I read other posts and if the voltage climbs at the battery, the R/R is junk. I don't understnd everything about wiring, but I thought if the stator shows 0 ohms across all leads, then it won't put out any power. Am I wrong? I don't want to replace it unneccesarily.

    I also checked into the replacement R/R as recommended from electrosports. They are shut down due to moving the business. I check into the Electrix site and they are located in UK and no longer deal through Electrosports. I read further in the forums here and it is recommended to use a Honda R/R.

    What do I do?

    Thanks for the help. Sorry for the long post.
    Tags: None
    #2
    If you're getting 17volts your stator is working and your R/R is shot.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment

      #3
      Greetings and Salutations!!

      Hi Mr. plwilli,

      When you check for continuity between each stator leg and ground you should get a resistance reading of infinity, no connection. A zero ohm reading is an absolute short, a direct connection. Recently my stator had shorted to ground and I was getting a reading of 3.3 ohms. I'm thinking that your meter reading might mean infinite resistance rather than a dead short. But I'm just guessing. There is a very thorough troubleshooting flowchart in The Stator Papers (links included in the information below) and some updated information in the Electrical Odd and Ends section of my website (Thanks to Mr. posplayr!).

      I just installed a stator from http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/ . They are more expensive than RM Stator and Electrosport but they are very nice parts. Hopefully it will last longer too. See my recent stator adventure in THIS THREAD. You'll also find guides for r/r and stator replacement on my website along with guides for troubleshooting and wiring clean-up. Let's get started.

      Anyway, I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

      If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

      Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

      Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

      Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

      Comment

        #4
        Mr. plwilli says he's reading lead to lead so I believe that'll be through the stator coils. His reading should be real low if the coils are good, can't remember what they should read but not sure about absolutely zero though.

        Either way, like Chef says, if you have 17v at the battery the R/R is not regulating and will cook your battery. Just had exactly the same with the 250, got a new one from Ricks Motorsport and put that on now get's up to 14v and that's it.
        It's smoke that make electronic components work.
        Every time I've let the smoke out by mistake, they never work again.
        '80 GS250T... long gone... And back!
        '86 Honda Bol D'Or... very sadly long gone
        '82 GS1000SZ
        '82 GS1100GL
        '01 Honda CBR1100XX BlackBird

        Comment

          #5
          Hi,

          When checking the resistance between the stator legs I usually get between 0.5 ohms and less than 2 ohms. There should be just a little resistance between the stator legs.

          I took a few pictures and wrote up a little guide: Stator Test


          Thank you for your indulgence,

          BassCliff

          Comment

            #6
            There is no resistance between legs on the stator. Nothing, nada. The meter reads 0.000

            When i check from lead to ground I get 0.L No short to ground

            Anyway, I am getting a Honda R/R and will try it.

            Thanks for the help guys.

            There sure is a lot of good info here and I do appreciate it. I have valve clearances to check, front fork seals to replace, and good info here to be sure I do it right. Thanks.

            Paul

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by plwilli View Post
              There is no resistance between legs on the stator. Nothing, nada. The meter reads 0.000

              When i check from lead to ground I get 0.L No short to ground

              Anyway, I am getting a Honda R/R and will try it.

              Thanks for the help guys.

              There sure is a lot of good info here and I do appreciate it. I have valve clearances to check, front fork seals to replace, and good info here to be sure I do it right. Thanks.

              Paul
              Are you measuring the resistance on the lowest scale of the meter?

              Comment

                #8
                Good point Mr. Matchless. I assumed auto range, may not be the case of course.
                It's smoke that make electronic components work.
                Every time I've let the smoke out by mistake, they never work again.
                '80 GS250T... long gone... And back!
                '86 Honda Bol D'Or... very sadly long gone
                '82 GS1000SZ
                '82 GS1100GL
                '01 Honda CBR1100XX BlackBird

                Comment

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