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Need coils, none in area for my year..

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    Need coils, none in area for my year..

    1981 GS1000GL

    I was wondering if the coils were year specific or if I could get coils from a different year/different model bike that would fit mine...

    The problem is I don't even know if my coils are the problem. It might be my plug wires....

    ...and apparently the plug wires are fused on and I can't get them off the coil.

    Is this right? SHOULD the plug wires be fused onto the coil, or can I get them off...


    So, a couple questions here I guess...

    Thanks,

    #2
    They're not exactly year-specific, though you'll probably want to get some from an 80+ bike since the prior years with points had higher impedance. If you want to go new, Dyna Green coils should be a good match for your bike. Bandit coils are apparently also pretty popular as replacements, and usually available pretty cheap (and much newer) via ebay.

    OK, now, why do you think you need new coils? The search function would give you some feedback about removing the wires. Possible, but a PITA. Those copper wires aren't too prone to going bad though. Have you checked your plug caps? They unscrew from the wires, and are supposed to have about 5k ohms resistance. They'll occasionally go bad though - I just replaced one that was 150k ohms. New NGK caps are about $5 each.

    What are the primary resistances on your coils? Secondary (without the caps)?

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      #3
      Any 80 up GS, older GSX, Bandit, RF900. ANY 3 ohm coil will work

      Comment


        #4
        You can replace the wires but it's about 50 /50 whether you can get them out without wrecking the coil.

        You need to chip away the sealing epoxy around where the wire enters & then you pull it out... inside is a spike, you shove the new wire in there & use a bit of silicon around the hole to seal it.
        1980 GS1000G - Sold
        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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          #5
          It is easy to get the original wires out!

          I did it last night, the first wire took about 30 minutes and the last three took about 10 minutes.

          I had read the different tips and tricks on this forum and decided to try.
          Most recommend a kind of pick to get the stumps out of the coils but I could not find any that fit and gave me a grip on the wire.

          So I looked into my kitchen and found a potato fork with three pronges(?), and modified to fit into the hole in the coil - the three points all touched a 7 mm circle.

          I then pressed the prongs firmly down along the sides of the wire and twisted the handle - this loosened the wire and I was able to pull it out without any further problems.

          As you can see of the first picture the short stub was the first try with a pick, and the three long ones the result of the potato fork!

          Comment


            #6
            This is a shot of the potato fork after the last stub was out!

            Comment


              #7
              checking resistance in plug wires...

              I finally have a DMM.

              How do I go about checking to see if voltage is getting all the way down to the plug? I unscrewed it, plugged it back in and hit the ignition, and no spark, nothing. Does the plug have to be grounded?


              Also, how do I check the resistance of the plug cap?

              Thanks.

              Comment


                #8
                Yes, the plugs have to be grounded. That's usually done by laying them against the head and cranking it over in some dark place.

                The plug caps just screw on to the wires. They have what's akin to a sheet metal screw on the top side, and that grabs the copper core of the wire. Set your DMM to the 200k ohm range or so and check between that screw and the plug clamp. I think the stock ones are supposed to be 5k ohms. When the resistors inside go bad that can go way up. One I recently pulled was about 150k ohms. If they're OK then just cut about 1/4" of the wire to expose some fresh copper and screw them back in. Do it one coil at a time and check the secondaries while you have the plug caps off.

                Comment


                  #9
                  As Mike_of_bbg mentioned in his reply, use the very good testing procedure he linked to: coiltesting - this link takes you directly to the relevant section!

                  Good luck, Arnulf

                  Comment


                    #10
                    plug wire off

                    okay, so apparently it took just a bit of hard tugging, now my wire is disco'd from the coil.

                    My new wire is black outer sheath, with white insulation covering the silver wire.

                    Do I have to strip the black outer sheath to be able to put the wire back in the coil hole? It would appear so, but just wanted to check.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      No, no stripping please!

                      The original wires were glued in place so check carefully and remove all old glue.
                      If the new wires are 7mm they should slide easily down the holes and you will note a slight resistance when you push them onto the spikes.
                      I gave mine a dub of two-component epoxy glue to make sure they don't come out again and to keep moisture out. Some like to use silicone(?).


                      Arnulf

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