Compu-Fire SERIES R/R Install

[salty_monk]

On inspection, I see that one of the leads from the Stator does not go direct to the R/R. goes into the Harness and another wire from the Harness connects to the third input lead from the R/R. Is this going to change with the series R/R?

It will if you change it..... It goes to the headlight switch if you have one & nowhere if you don't have one.
It's much better to go all 3 into the RR direct. If you peel back the binding you'll find a splitter in that harness about 6" in if you don't want the odd connection flopping around. The other two coming from the front of the bike you can just plug into each other for the sake of neatness or even cut them off... it's just a loop.

Dan

[Richsuz]

It will if you change it..... It goes to the headlight switch if you have one & nowhere if you don't have one.
It's much better to go all 3 into the RR direct. If you peel back the binding you'll find a splitter in that harness about 6" in if you don't want the odd connection flopping around. The other two coming from the front of the bike you can just plug into each other for the sake of neatness or even cut them off... it's just a loop.

Dan

No mine is a 650GLD, but I don't understand, the headlight gets fed AC from the Stator, not regulated 12 DC?

[Richsuz]

In regards to the instalation. I read other postings of people relocating the R/R to the front of the bike to improve cooling. Do I need to consider this with the Compu-fire? Will it make it easier to install? Does the increase in wire length make a difference? I would assume I need to keep cables as short as possible, but since I have time to prep, before the part gets here, I am considering my options....

[greg78gs750]

im sure this is a stupid question, but is there an "ideal" oil temp? is there such a thing as a too cool oil temp?

greg

[Dogma]

im sure this is a stupid question, but is there an "ideal" oil temp? is there such a thing as a too cool oil temp?

greg

Multi-viscosity oils like 10W-40 are formulated with a certain operating temperature range in mind. As temperature rises, viscosity of the oil drops. If operating temperatures are lower than the design range for that formulation, then you are wasting power with an oil formulation that is too viscous. If operating temperature is too high, then you may not have enough viscosity to lubricate the engine. The oil also degrades faster at elevated temperature.

From a design perspective, lower operating temperature is desirable for a given volume of oil in an engine developing a given amount of power. It means there is less waste heat. Get the temperatures low enough, and you may need to run a lower viscosity oil. Car owner's manuals will have a table describing what to use in cold or hot environments.

For motorcycles, we can't really reduce the operating temperature to make a significant change in what viscosity oil we use, other than riding in the winter. We do have to guard against running too hot and degrading the oil prematurely, which leads to accelerated part wear. We can run the engines harder if we can keep the oil cool. So, the bottom line for motorcycles is, take any relatively easy steps to cool the oil as much as possible in performance applications.

A lot of folks want to see the engine oil temperature reach the boiling point of water. The idea is to boil off any moisture that has condensed inside the crankcase. My thinking is that dew evaporates as ambient temperatures rise during the day, and that's no different inside an engine. Unless the engine is completely sealed, moisture will come and go. Reaching the boiling point is the only way to make sure all the water has been converted from the liquid form, but it will be back the next morning when everything has cooled. A properly designed and maintained engine will have anything that can corrode bathed in oil, and thus protected.

Geez. Ask a simple question...

[Richsuz]

So, I got my regulator today. wooohooo! The thing is HUGE! So has anybody with a GS650GL gone through the install? It will def. have to be relocated. The output cables are long enough, but the AC input cables are very short and already have a connector attached.

On the subject of connecting it to the stator. The kit came with a housing that mates to the connector already on the R/R AC input. No pins came to crimp on to the stator wires. What type/size/etc do I need to take advantage of this nice setup? Can I find an automotive application pin kit that is right for this?

[posplayr]

So, I got my regulator today. wooohooo! The thing is HUGE! So has anybody with a GS650GL gone through the install? It will def. have to be relocated. The output cables are long enough, but the AC input cables are very short and already have a connector attached.

On the subject of connecting it to the stator. The kit came with a housing that mates to the connector already on the R/R AC input. No pins came to crimp on to the stator wires. What type/size/etc do I need to take advantage of this nice setup? Can I find an automotive application pin kit that is right for this?

They are a standard automotive type pin. MARVAC has them; you will have to do a little search.

http://www.marvac.com/

[greg78gs750]

this is exactly the type of answer i was looking for, thanks! so, even with an oil cooler fitted, sounds like too cool wouldnt be an issue. i am already running below boiling on my (tck's) 1100es with the oil cooler, at least if i can believe the oil temp gauge. thanks!!

greg

Multi-viscosity oils like 10W-40 are formulated with a certain operating temperature range in mind. As temperature rises, viscosity of the oil drops. If operating temperatures are lower than the design range for that formulation, then you are wasting power with an oil formulation that is too viscous. If operating temperature is too high, then you may not have enough viscosity to lubricate the engine. The oil also degrades faster at elevated temperature.

From a design perspective, lower operating temperature is desirable for a given volume of oil in an engine developing a given amount of power. It means there is less waste heat. Get the temperatures low enough, and you may need to run a lower viscosity oil. Car owner's manuals will have a table describing what to use in cold or hot environments.

For motorcycles, we can't really reduce the operating temperature to make a significant change in what viscosity oil we use, other than riding in the winter. We do have to guard against running too hot and degrading the oil prematurely, which leads to accelerated part wear. We can run the engines harder if we can keep the oil cool. So, the bottom line for motorcycles is, take any relatively easy steps to cool the oil as much as possible in performance applications.

A lot of folks want to see the engine oil temperature reach the boiling point of water. The idea is to boil off any moisture that has condensed inside the crankcase. My thinking is that dew evaporates as ambient temperatures rise during the day, and that's no different inside an engine. Unless the engine is completely sealed, moisture will come and go. Reaching the boiling point is the only way to make sure all the water has been converted from the liquid form, but it will be back the next morning when everything has cooled. A properly designed and maintained engine will have anything that can corrode bathed in oil, and thus protected.

Geez. Ask a simple question...

[katman]

The only compufire that works is the part number listed in the link.

are you a dealer for these guys?
why do we need a 40amp reg and why is the 55402 the only reg that will work? why isn't a 32amp good enough for a GS?

[posplayr]

are you a dealer for these guys?
why do we need a 40amp reg and why is the 55402 the only reg that will work? why isn't a 32amp good enough for a GS?

Rob, No I am not a dealer; you can buy them from where ever you want.

You don't need 40 amps, but the 55402 is the only 3 phase SERIES R/R compufire has. All the rest are two phase.

Motorcycle Electric also have SERIES units like the 602 that are also 3 phase but as I mentioned before they are physically much larger.

Billy may have found a OE SERIES model but I have never seen or test one of the.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1407392&postcount=4


I did test this one two weekends ago,and it was a fraud.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=173731

Compufire 55402

Even though the ElectricCycle 600 series R/R's are also SERIES and very robust in almost every way to the Compufire. The Compufire is significantly smaller and will fit under a GS1100E side cover. The CE600 is a monster and has to be mounted someplace where there is space like under the battery box. The Compufire runs very cool so there is NO benefit to having the larger package of the CE 600 series. Both are 40 amp+ designs which way exceeds what a GS requires.

[mforbes]

I have the CE-602 on my GS1100G. I mounted it under the battery box. It is big. Heavy duty everything. Wires are 10 gauge. It fits nicely under there, but I have room on the bike. I was worried some about it hitting the swing arm during a big bounce in the road, but no problems with that even when I have a passenger and all my stuff in the trunks and side bags. For other bikes with clearance problems, this regulator might be to big unless you mount it on the front of the bike. I was going to mount it where my stock horns were mounted, but than decided to put it under the battery box which was better as I didn't have to extend the stator wires to the front of the bike. I was going to do the Comp-u-fire but at the time, it was out of stock. So I went with CE and the local HD shop ordered it for me.
Posplayr's write up on the Comp-u-fire sold me on the switch to these regulators. I was so tired of the every other year replacement of either the stator or rectifier.

Rob, No I am not a dealer; you can buy them from where ever you want.

You don't need 40 amps, but the 55402 is the only 3 phase SERIES R/R compufire has. All the rest are two phase.

Motorcycle Electric also have SERIES units like the 602 that are also 3 phase but as I mentioned before they are physically much larger.

Billy may have found a OE SERIES model but I have never seen or test one of the.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1407392&postcount=4


I did test this one two weekends ago,and it was a fraud.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=173731

[Steve]

No mine is a 650GLD, but I don't understand, the headlight gets fed AC from the Stator, not regulated 12 DC?

No, the headlight does NOT get fed AC from the stator.

The headlight switch actually has two totally separate sets of contacts.
One set does, indeed, switch regulated 12 volt DC from the battery (and/or R/R).
The other set interrupts current flow in the third leg of the stator.

The theory was "if you are not consuming the electricity (by using the headlight), why generate it?" Any excess would have to be shunted to ground, so they just minimized the excess by turning off part of the stator. Since many (most?) of our bikes came to the US with the headlight switch defeated or missing, and the headlight running all the time, that switch is no longer needed. The wiring harness just bypasses it anyway, so we just bypass it even sooner and eliminate a few more connections.

.

[first timer]

Added a better description of the fundamental differences. In addition the SERIES Compufire puts out more voltage at low RPM (about 1 volt more or 14.2V by 1500 RPM v.s. about 13.2V OEM) and stay cooler along with keeping the stator much cooler.

SHUNT_vs_SERIES_RR_Compare_Tutorial

hey Jim you PDF links are down.

can you repost and update your links in this thread?

thanks,
R

[Andrew Vanis]

Compufire Pin Connectors - get them at NAPA - here are part#s

No pins came to crimp on to the stator wires. What type/size/etc do I need to take advantage of this nice setup? Can I find an automotive application pin kit that is right for this?

Compufire Pin Connectors - get them at NAPA - here are part#s

Since the CompuFire doesn’t come with the male pins, you can get them at your local NAPA - ~$1/pin, ~$0.50/grommet. The pins and grommets are stocked. NAPA can also get you the connector if you need it but it is a special order.



Pin – Male
Part Number: NW 725170

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Wire-Terminal-GM-Weather-Pack-OEM-Series/_/R-NW_725170_0282444263

Grommet
Part Number: NW 725152

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Wiring-Grommet-Rubber/_/R-NW_725152_0293960868

If you want a completed wire (notice how the grommet is pinched in the second barb)
Part Number: NW 725436

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Wire-Terminal-GM-Weather-Pack-OEM-Series/_/R-NW_725436_0293957210

[posplayr]

hey Jim you PDF links are down.

can you repost and update your links in this thread?

thanks,
R

I think I redid most of them in the first post at least. I have 10 years worth of links go down with a free hosting service.