Charging Issue 83' gs750es

[xedgex21]

I bought a brand new battery this season and it has been doing it since then. Bike will start right up with a charged battery, and while I ride the battery doesn't get charged fully, however, it does get charged enough to keep the bike running because the bike has only completely died on me once. I suspect either a bad ground ( best case scenerio ), the rectifier, or the ac generator. I downloaded the shop manual from basscliff I just don't have a meter right now to do the diagnostics. Any ideas? I find it odd that the bike doesnt fully charge but charges enough to stay running.

[Calvin Blackmore]

well yah do have to have the revs up to charge
if your idling a lot or if you are below the threshold for charging
not sure what it is

then you will constantly deplete the battery


but it is a suzuki so there are all the gremlins that need to be looked at
buy a meter they are not that much money
they are a pretty essential tool

[salty_monk]

Most likely either bad ground, dead RR (very common on these bikes as the RR is tiny on that model) or dead stator leg.

Get a digital meter from Harbor Freight, Radioshack, Lowes or somewhere then follow the Stator Pages in the tech section here in order to diagnose.

[gearhead13]

On mine, one leg of the stator was bad, so it was putting out voltage just not quite enough to keep the battery fully charged.

[xedgex21]

Thanks for all the info I will pickup a meter and check it out further. I also noticed though that there are 5 fuses, a main, ignition, and some other stuff for the electronics. The main fuse was blown, and when I replace it and try to start it, sometimes it blows. Does this mean something is shorting out?

[Calvin Blackmore]

Thanks for all the info I will pickup a meter and check it out further. I also noticed though that there are 5 fuses, a main, ignition, and some other stuff for the electronics. The main fuse was blown, and when I replace it and try to start it, sometimes it blows. Does this mean something is shorting out?

er um yes. or you are getting a god awful surge in the power output through the regulator.

[Billy Ricks]

Thanks for all the info I will pickup a meter and check it out further. I also noticed though that there are 5 fuses, a main, ignition, and some other stuff for the electronics. The main fuse was blown, and when I replace it and try to start it, sometimes it blows. Does this mean something is shorting out?

You may just have a wire shorting out somewhere in the harness. My money is on the stator shorting though. Classic symptoms of windings shorting out.

[Steve]

Since you say your fuse panel has 5 fuses, I know that it will also have a couple of screws on one end.

Starting at the other end, the fuses are:

LIGHTS - ON with the key - powers the headlight, tail light and instrument lights

SIGNALS - ON with the key - powers the turn signals, horn, brake light and low oil pressure light

IGNITION - ON with the key - powers the coils and the ignitor box, also provides power to starter solenoid (but not the starter, itself)

MAIN - ON all the time - feeds all the circuits above until the engine starts, then the regulator powers them. When the engine is running, it protects the charge current to the battery.

AUX - ON all the time - powers one of the two screws at the end. The other screw is a ground.

.

[Danjal]

Turn your high beam on,your turn signal on,and hit the brake light... you might be able to kill it that way if its not charging enough.

Sounds like you got it narrowed down though. When you go buy a meter get one with a diode checking function on it. You'll need it for your R/R tests.

[xedgex21]

I also discovered that the 15amp fuse gets blown, same as a 20, but a 25 does not. I know this isnt good so I don't know could the system be getting too much voltage? Thanks for all the replies soo far.

[Billy Ricks]

I also discovered that the 15amp fuse gets blown, same as a 20, but a 25 does not. I know this isnt good so I don't know could the system be getting too much voltage? Thanks for all the replies soo far.

Don't substitute a higher amperage fuse to keep the bike from popping them, you may as well use a paper clip if you do that. I'll put money on a bad stator being your problem. I experienced the exact same symptoms when my bike was only about two years old.

[xedgex21]

I wouldn't keep a higher amp fuse in while riding I only did it to see if it would blow or not. I figured it's either a bad r/r or stator. Also is the stator the same thing as the AC Generator? I need to get a multimeter and test everything tomorrow.

[posplayr]

I also discovered that the 15amp fuse gets blown, same as a 20, but a 25 does not. I know this isnt good so I don't know could the system be getting too much voltage? Thanks for all the replies soo far.

some people wire directly from the R/R(+) to the positive side of the battery and experience this problem (i.e. requiring a 25-30 amp fuse to run around when OE is 15amp)