Over charge

[Chasse]

1982 gs300 overcharging, I have gone thru the stator pages three times, changed and tested R/R and cleaned all electical conections. Bike is charging 19v at 5000rpm, bike will run only if ho/low beam switch is positioned so both are on. After takeing most of this bike apart I am still looking for a fuse box?? Thanks Jim

[posplayr]

1982 gs300 overcharging, I have gone thru the stator pages three times, changed and tested R/R and cleaned all electical conections. Bike is charging 19v at 5000rpm, bike will run only if ho/low beam switch is positioned so both are on. After takeing most of this bike apart I am still looking for a fuse box?? Thanks Jim

Welcome aboard.

If you went through the pages 3 times then where are you failing? Obvioulsy 19V out will not pass?

Have you seen this?


http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:

If you really have 19V (doubtful) then teh stator is OK and you are not regulating. Does it climb from 13V at idel to 19V at 5K RPM?

[Nessism]

The R/R is bad. Make sure you have it properly grounded and test it again. If still no love, get a new R/R. Tons of options on that. Look for Matchless's thread for lots of good choices.

[Danjal]

Or just contact duanage here and get teh cheapest option around... not to mention a good product.

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. Chasse,

After going through the Stator Papers, you should know where your charging system is failing. If the stator output is good, all the connections are clean and in their proper place, but the r/r output is bad, then I agree with Mr. Nessism. I would suspect the r/r unit.

Anyway, I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Chasse]

Revised stator pages did help track it down to the positive lead. I believe eletical problems may be behind me know. I now may have a fuel delivery problem but thats another story, Thanks to all.

[posplayr]

I always get a tear with happy endings.

If anyone is interested I finally developed a theory of how it is possible to actually overcharge from bad connections. Generally for most all R/R's it is not possible for bad connections to cause overcharging.

Think about the fold back problem where voltage goes up with RPM and the peaks and folds back (drops at high RPM). The resistance causes a drop in voltage.

Well here is the theory. Only R/R's that have the single stator leg SCR control (short only one leg) can overcharge due to bad connections. Works like this:

1.) If there is a poor connection between R/R(+) and Battery(+), the voltage at the R/R starts to rise even though the battery voltage stays low. This is because the resistance is so high that any attempt to push current causes the voltage to drop at the battery.


2.) As RPM keeps rising, the voltage at the R/R gets higher until the R/R says I have to shunt current to get this to stop. So the R/R starts shunting the single leg it can control.

3.) Eventually the shunting of the single leg runs to maximum shunt control of the one leg, however the other two legs are not being controlled and they continue to allow voltage to rise. So here is the rub, the resistance has to be high enough to cause the voltage drop but not so high that no current can pass.

I have not been able to measure this and have always wanted to know what the voltages were from the Phase 1 B and C measuremenst whe nin this condition.

Do you know/remember what you were measuring?

[Redman]

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If anyone is interested ...
...
...?

Yes, PM sent.