Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
New coils - still lose 1&4 after bike is hot
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by Fergie View PostI agree on the wiring situation.
For my own edification, is the relay mounted near the battery in my first picture the "Coil Relay Mod"?
My suggestion with that is to remove the crimp on connection and put a ring lug on it. Then attach it to the solenoid or battery directly. Otherwise it looks pretty good.
Comment
-
Fergie
Originally posted by posplayr View PostYes, that is what it appears to be. The is a crimp connection near the solenoid to get battery power that also runs through that fuse holder near the relay. The wires to control the relay and send switched power to the coils are all wired in.
My suggestion with that is to remove the crimp on connection and put a ring lug on it. Then attach it to the solenoid or battery directly. Otherwise it looks pretty good.
On another note, I've been researching and reading on points and condensers and such. I get how they function now, and the location on the bike.
After troubleshooting and checking to see what the exact issue is, and making the assumption that it is the points and condenser, I'm thinking that I'll be better off with a Dyna unit. The is all predicated by what I find under the cover.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Fergie View PostI'll try that out; thank you!
On another note, I've been researching and reading on points and condensers and such. I get how they function now, and the location on the bike.
After troubleshooting and checking to see what the exact issue is, and making the assumption that it is the points and condenser, I'm thinking that I'll be better off with a Dyna unit. The is all predicated by what I find under the cover.
Easy stuff.
Comment
-
Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13962
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
Comment
-
Fergie
Comment
-
Calvin Blackmore
jaysus its the dyna s ignition!!!!
oh this is complicating
not to worry though
some dyna s guys will step in soon
Comment
-
as you can see there are really only three wires going to the two side.
Both need Red power (hopefully comeing from the coil relay mod) , and then each returns the signal that controls the low side of the coils (looks like a black and a white).
So if you can confirm that the 1-4 dyna is not switching up and down ( from about 1v to +12V) after it gets hot then you know it is the dyna that is bad.
Comment
-
Fergie
Originally posted by posplayr View Postas you can see there are really only three wires going to the two side.
Both need Red power (hopefully comeing from the coil relay mod) , and then each returns the signal that controls the low side of the coils (looks like a black and a white).
So if you can confirm that the 1-4 dyna is not switching up and down ( from about 1v to +12V) after it gets hot then you know it is the dyna that is bad.
Thanks,
Gavin
Comment
-
Follow the wires from the dyna and see where they connect into the harness.
One white to coil
One black to other coil
One red to power.
I would check the connections there.
If you can get a probe into this connection check the black and white while running.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
Fergie
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostFollow the wires from the dyna and see where they connect into the harness.
One white to coil
One black to other coil
One red to power.
I would check the connections there.
If you can get a probe into this connection check the black and white while running.
Also, something is definitely hinky with the wiring. When I was riding to warm the bike up, the turn signals would not work. Once the bike warmed up, and #1 cut out, the signals would work.
I do think there is any causation there, but I do think there is a correlation.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Fergie View PostRoger.
Also, something is definitely hinky with the wiring. When I was riding to warm the bike up, the turn signals would not work. Once the bike warmed up, and #1 cut out, the signals would work.
I do think there is any causation there, but I do think there is a correlation.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Fergie View PostRoger.
Also, something is definitely hinky with the wiring. When I was riding to warm the bike up, the turn signals would not work. Once the bike warmed up, and #1 cut out, the signals would work.
I do think there is any causation there, but I do think there is a correlation.
Do a little test.
Let bike cool
see if blinkers work with engine off.
start bike on all 4 test blinker again. If it doesnt work
bike off again see if blinks.
You may just have a bad charging.
Do you have a volt meter?
Comment
-
Fergie
Yep, I've got a Craftsman digital job.
On a whim, I checked the voltage at the battery earlier, 11.5V when the bike was off. With the key on, it registered a few thou less. When I started the bike the reading was 11.78 and rising, depending on voltage.
The previous owner had replaced the stator with a used one at some point in the past, and he mentioned that he kept the bike on a smart charger when he wasnt riding frequently.
I'll try the test you mentioned above in the morning.
Thanks,
Gavin
Comment
-
Originally posted by Fergie View PostYep, I've got a Craftsman digital job.
On a whim, I checked the voltage at the battery earlier, 11.5V when the bike was off. With the key on, it registered a few thou less. When I started the bike the reading was 11.78 and rising, depending on voltage.
The previous owner had replaced the stator with a used one at some point in the past, and he mentioned that he kept the bike on a smart charger when he wasnt riding frequently.
I'll try the test you mentioned above in the morning.
Thanks,
Gavin
Comment
Comment