58 Volt Stator; is that a problem?

[posplayr]

How would I know if my stator is "leaking" as suggested in the stator papers? The stator puts out about 75 to 80 volts at 5000 rpm, but the voltage at the battery goes from 14 volts at 2000 to something like 12.7 at 5000. I have good connections and a new r/r.

you probably have a bad connection between battery(+) to R/R(+). You can test using the modified stator pages to identify which. See linky in my siggy

[posplayr]

As far as I know the R/R never fail if all of the connections in the entire system are truly clean. I have still never had one fail, after twenty or so GSes and hundreds of thousands of miles. I have bought dead bikes with dead R/Rs, they were all corroded at the connections.

My GS750E was not only overcharging but had even fried the harness and all I needed to do was clean connections (and obvioulsy change the fried wire) to restore proper charging.

[Nessism]

How would I know if my stator is "leaking" as suggested in the stator papers? The stator puts out about 75 to 80 volts at 5000 rpm, but the voltage at the battery goes from 14 volts at 2000 to something like 12.7 at 5000. I have good connections and a new r/r.

Bad connections almost for sure. I strongly advise hooking up the R/R directly into the stator, bypassing the stock wiring. Make sure the R/R has a good ground point, not though the batter box or similar - run directly to the frame and/or battery. For the + side, you can run that directly to the battery too as long as there is a 15 amp fuse added, or splice into the red wire feeding the regular fuse block. Takes some thought but streamlining the wires really pays off.

[1980GS1000E]

OK, I had already soldered the three legs of the stator direclty to the r/r to try to fix this (which didn't fix it) and was in the process of soldering the positive connections too, as well as making a single-point ground as specified in the stator papers, but got called away for the time being. The a/c voltages off the the stator weren't exactly the same at 5000 rpm. One was 75, one was 85 and one was around 65. Does this mean I should just get a new stator and start from there? It is the original unit and I would really not want to fry the freshly replaced r/r.

[posplayr]

OK, I had already soldered the three legs of the stator direclty to the r/r to try to fix this (which didn't fix it) and was in the process of soldering the positive connections too, as well as making a single-point ground as specified in the stator papers, but got called away for the time being. The a/c voltages off the the stator weren't exactly the same at 5000 rpm. One was 75, one was 85 and one was around 65. Does this mean I should just get a new stator and start from there? It is the original unit and I would really not want to fry the freshly replaced r/r.

bad connections fry R/R's and stators both.

If your stator leg voltages are that different then you may have a few shorted windings in the stator already. If you are ridding hard (sustained high rpm's) then you are stressing the stator and it is probably running on borrowed time. Up to you if you want to run to failure or do preventative maintenance by replacing stator now. It will not hurt the R/R as long as your connections are good.

[1980GS1000E]

I just bought a new stator. I went for the Rick's on ebay.

[posplayr]

I just bought a new stator. I went for the Rick's on ebay.

Well that is a good thing to do but will not solve your voltage fold back (dropping voltage with increasing RPM) problem. That has to do with the connections between the R/R and the battery .

Also if you find you are buring up stators due to spirited riding the Electro Fire SERIES R/R will stop that.

Nice paint on the 1000 by the wat ; that classic color is what made me choose the same for my GS750EX

[1980GS1000E]

I am going redo those connections and maybe get a new battery lead as well. Thanks for all the info.