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lucabond
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13969
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
Anyone doing the relay mod should carry a small "jumper" wire. You need about 3" with male spades on each end.
If the relay goes bad you can connect up the relay socket pins to either be back to stock (connect switched live back to coil feed) or as a last resort you can also "hot wire" the coils directly through from the battery (connect Batt +ve feeding relay direct to coil feed you'll definitely get 12v that way).
As most relays die from vibrations on a bike carrying a spare relay means you could just as likely be carrying a dead spare too!1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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agree with Dan you should carry a small piece of wire in case you need to jumper your plug. I have mine wrapped through an old airbox mounting bolt hole. I also have a spare relay in a tank bag. On the last trip I evenbrought a spare r/r and stuck a relay in the same bag with spare fuses.
Todd your symptoms sound like you did not have power going to the Dyna-S. It is not clear if you are powering the Dyna from the relay mod or another circuit.
I know there are alot of ways to do this mod and some better than others. I took quite a bit of time to figure what seemed the best for an 1100E which minimized harness changes and kept the relay mounted in a place where it was unlikely to see much vibration.
It is best to get a quality Bosche Relay they are also waterproof and designed for automotive applications. Make sure you mount the relay somewhere where it will not be subjected to vibrations. A direct mount to the frame under the gas tank is not a good place.
Your battery box is mounted in rubber and in addition I further isolated the relay by mounting from it's tab using a plastic flexible mount. This location near the stock imounting location is also convinent because you can power the entire ignition circuit from the ignitor plug. This minimizes and changes to the harness.
I know I have seen alot of people have a relay mounted by zipp tieing it to some part of the frame. This is really hit or miss. Also any wires that you add should be secured and not just flapping in the breeze. That is how solder joint cracks develop of wires get pulled from crimps.
By powering at the ignitor plug most of the harness dressing issues are eliminated.
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