horn and front brake wiring

[spcdolan]

i have a 78 gs750 and i can't figure out how to replace the wires for the horn and front break. the wires have been missing for a few years so I have nothing to go on... please help. i believe the wires connect under the front break lever but I don't know how and i don't know where they run to. do i need a sodering gun? and im at a loss with the horn...

[Redman]

One option for the brake light switch wiring would be to buy a replacement switch (#14) as it comes with the the wiring attatched and the connector at the end (not shown). Maybe your entire switch is missing anyway, or maybe the internal parts have been lost already (have you looked?).
It has two screws holding it to the bottom of the brake lever base. THe wires are slodered to connections inside the switch. The connector on the other end of the wire cable plugs into a connector located in headlight shell on most models (I have not had expereince with 78 750, but that seems like how they all are).

I have replaced a couple of these switches (on 80 850G and 82 1100GK). I think they are like $14, and the other one for the clutch seems to be the same as the one for the front brake. (oh, maybe a 78 doesnt have the switch on the clutch)

If you do try to take off the existing brake switch to inspect or repair it with the idea of reusing it; take out the two screws and be ready to catch a small spring and a small contact and a small plastic piece. After you pull away the cover, and if those parts dont fall out, they either were not there to start with or they will fall out later and then get lost, so look for them before you loose them. Some folk recommend loosining the brake lever base and spinn the entire brake lever assembly around so the switch is on the top, so these parts dont fall out, but then be aware that you are taking chance on slopping brake fluid all over and messing up paint job.

Horn: Are you refereing to the wiring to the horn itself? Or the wiring to the horn button?

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[koolaid_kid]

The horns receive switched 12V power from the fuse box to one of their connectors. The other connector runs to the horn switch, which grounds the horns and activates them. You can Y them out to save wire and space.
You can find a shop manual and possibly a wiring diagram on this website: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

[spcdolan]

i was able to catch all the little pieces. the diagram will help huge, i really appreciate it. i think I'm going to have to buy the new switch, the pieces I have now look pretty smoked. and as far as the horn goes, it just doesnt work. ive been dicking around with the brake light and havent had a chance to pull the horn apart yet but I'm hoping its something easy. the brake light and the horn are all thats keeping it from passing inspection. ive had the bike for a few years and now its my only mode of transportation. i sold my jeep because im shipping to iraq soon so im depending on the bike to get around. do you know where I can pick up an airbox? right now i have foam clamped over the carbs and it works well, the bike runs good but it sort of looks rediculous... i looked into the k&n aftermarket filters but they are pretty pricy. what do you think about them? are they worth the bread or would a factory airbox and filters from a junkyard be just as good? this website is amazing! i was lost for a while as far as where to get tips...

[Steve]

One option for the brake light switch wiring would be to buy a replacement switch (#14) as it comes with the the wiring attatched and the connector at the end (not shown). ... I have replaced a couple of these switches (on 80 850G and 82 1100GK). I think they are like $14, and the other one for the clutch seems to be the same as the one for the front brake. ...

$14 for the brake switch is not bad. However, if you are also getting some other stuff, and it's stuff that Parts-n-More carries, you can get it from them for $6. Parts-n-More does not carry everything that the others do, but they do have good prices. Problem is that they have a $35 minimum, so you want to be sure to meet that. Another nice thing about them is that they have flat-rate $5 shipping.

While the clutch switch looks and works like the brake switch, they are not quite the same. The contacts are at the other end of the slide and the connectors are different. The clutch switch has one male, one female connector, the brake switch has two males.

... do you know where I can pick up an airbox? right now i have foam clamped over the carbs and it works well, the bike runs good but it sort of looks rediculous... i looked into the k&n aftermarket filters but they are pretty pricy. what do you think about them? are they worth the bread or would a factory airbox and filters from a junkyard be just as good? ...

If you think the K&N filters are expensive, don't worry about getting them because you will also need to re-jet the carbs, adding to your expense. At least the carbs on your bike are a bit easier to re-jet than the CV carbs on later bikes (or so I'm told), but it will take some time and money to sort out the proper jetting for the non-standard setup. An airbox from a junkyard or from another member here might cost nearly the same as the K&N filters, but you won't have the additional expense and aggravation of having to re-jet.

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[koolaid_kid]

If the horn does not work, I strongly suggest doing the horn relay mod from BassCliff's site, and getting a couple of LOUD horns that some members here use. There are different brands, and they are a lot louder than the squeak the stock horn attempts to emit.