Not sure about oil interval but engine will be much happier with a 30 degree drop in oil temp. And stator temp will drop by 100-200 (depending) degrees.
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Originally posted by JEEPRUSTY View Post
Not sure about oil interval but engine will be much happier with a 30 degree drop in oil temp. And stator temp will drop by 100-200 (depending) degrees.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Originally posted by posplayr View PostSo whatever happened to your quote?
That is a measured value and supports the temp reduction numbers I got. I'm probably 30-40 degree between the oil sprayer and the SERIES R/R .
While Bills 1230 with oversize cooler and 150-152 mains (mine is off a GS550 with 145 mains) got as high as 310, mine only got to about 220-230 deg riding side by side. Over the entire trip I would barely get to 210 degree indicated and that hot spell was one time climbing a 20% grade at 10-25 mph in one lane constructon traffic at 6000 ft .Ed
To measure is to know.
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostHow about setting up a proper test? Run your fancy new R/R over a known road course at a specified rpm/speed and take some data. Now switch out the R/R and run the course again at the same rpm/speed – in the same ambient temperature.
Then I have about 4000 miles on a 1166 kit which included a trip to OR via Mt Shasta in 2009.
An then I just got back from a 1700 mile trip to Reno again of about 2000 mile on the 1166 with sprayer and SERIES R/R.
Now can't overlay temp data, but I know that based on the same OE temp guage and same OE temp sensor that the latest configuration is cooler under all conditions (that means up to 105 degrees) than even the 1074 on the cool 70 degF coast.
Originally posted by Nessism View PostDo this and you will have comparable data to judge temp reduction.
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostHow about setting up a proper test? Run your fancy new R/R over a known road course at a specified rpm/speed and take some data. Now switch out the R/R and run the course again at the same rpm/speed – in the same ambient temperature. Do this and you will have comparable data to judge temp reduction.
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Originally posted by Dan Ruddock View PostEd, think of it this way. What do you think putting a 250 watt sump heater would do to your oil temp? Posplayr do know if thing is a PWM design? Dan
From the output voltage reading (14+ volts at 2K rpm)you can tell that they have eliminated the diode bridge losses by doing Synchronous Rectification (SR) coupled with the SERIES control. This provides a significant reduction in power dissipation improvement in the R/R above and beyond the savings in the stator.
I have a comparison (FET SHUNT based to SERIES compare) of the stator winding voltage and current plots in the attached.
http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/FH012AA_Charging/RR_Tutorial.pdf
Andwhat is worse is the elevated temp the stators running at at higher RPM'sLast edited by posplayr; 07-15-2010, 06:12 PM.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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The GS electrical system consumes a good deal of the power produced by the stator, it's only the extra power than needs to be managed in some way - way less than 250 W. I can believe that this new style R/R reduces temps somewhat but I'm very suspicious that it would be worth 30 F, and I certainly don't believe it accounts for the difference between Chef's bike at 310F and Jim's at 220F.
Running a back to back test, on the same bike, on the same day, would take less than one hour. I'll even do it on my bike if someone will send me one of these fancy R/R's. I'd love to eat crow on this, and I'll be ordering one the very next day if what you guys say can be verified.Ed
To measure is to know.
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostThe GS electrical system consumes a good deal of the power produced by the stator, it's only the extra power than needs to be managed in some way - way less than 250 W. I can believe that this new style R/R reduces temps somewhat but I'm very suspicious that it would be worth 30 F, and I certainly don't believe it accounts for the difference between Chef's bike at 310F and Jim's at 220F.
Running a back to back test, on the same bike, on the same day, would take less than one hour. I'll even do it on my bike if someone will send me one of these fancy R/R's. I'd love to eat crow on this, and I'll be ordering one the very next day if what you guys say can be verified.
I probably gave the wrong impression in comparing Bill and my bike's temperatures at low speed. That is not where you would judge the effectiveness of the mods. It was simply to indicate a situation where Bill was verging on thermal runaway and I was still at a comfortable 230 ish MAX. As a general rule my bike NOW never exceeds 210 degF and is usually always below unless perhaps at 105 degF pulling a hard hill climb in 4th gear at 5K-6K RPM
For an apples to apples comparision on the same bike I think I have a miniumum 30 degree C lower oil temp and maybe as much as 40 Deg. However bear in mine I got that doing two mods. A Stator Sprayer and an SERIES R/R.
Wheatdog is reporting here very similar INDEPENDENT results in the 30 degree range which are based solely on the R/R mod alone.
Both are 83 1100E's although I dont know if he is running a big block or not.
A smaller bike might not see as much temperatrue improvement, but it will save the stator just a well on big or small bikes that are reved hard.
JimLast edited by posplayr; 07-15-2010, 06:43 PM.
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostThe GS electrical system consumes a good deal of the power produced by the stator, it's only the extra power than needs to be managed in some way - way less than 250 W..
Did you see the results/scope plots posted?
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Originally posted by Dan Ruddock View PostDoes the series reg run reasonably cool? If yes it must be a pwm design. Dan
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wheatdog
My 1100 has the 1168 kit on it . I took my engine temp measurements according to a ten mile run I make at about 75mph on I-12 outside my home town. Stock RR, 200-210. Compufire, 170-180 deg F. Same 95 deg amibient temps. Incredible improvement. Just looking at the surface area of the stator, with the stock RR it must produce some serious heat!
Mike
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Originally posted by wheatdog View PostMy 1100 has the 1168 kit on it . I took my engine temp measurements according to a ten mile run I make at about 75mph on I-12 outside my home town. Stock RR, 200-210. Compufire, 170-180 deg F. Same 95 deg amibient temps. Incredible improvement. Just looking at the surface area of the stator, with the stock RR it must produce some serious heat!
Mike
This is just conjecture because I spoke to one of my officemates who has a Phd in ME/Heat Transfer and he could not offer a definative explaination on the effects of humidity on MC cooling.
Anyway glad it worked out with positive results.
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Funny you should mention the humidity, Jim...all this conversation is way outside/above any knowledge I have, but I'll tell you that here in SC, the summer humidity is never below 50%, and usually much much higher. My 82 EZ is stock config as far as the engine goes, but an oil cooler was on the bike when I bought it (no thermostat for the cooler). I have never seen the bike get more than halfway between 160* & 210* marks on the oil temp gauge while at any constant speed above a crawl. At an indicated 75mph, same thing. It creeps up while sitting in traffic, but I always cut it off if I sit too long.
I am leaning toward a new (smaller) cooler with a thermostat, and the Series R/R as I begin to put the bike back together. I really appreciate being to reap the benefits of all you intelligent people around here!Mike
1982 GS1100EZ
Text messages with my youngest brother Daniel right after he was paralyzed:
Me: Hey Dan-O. Just wanted to say howdy & love ya!
Dan-O: Howdy and Love you too. Doing good, feeling good.
Me: Give 'em hell, Little Bro!
Dan-O: Roger that! :)
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Originally posted by Cassius086 View PostFunny you should mention the humidity, Jim...all this conversation is way outside/above any knowledge I have, but I'll tell you that here in SC, the summer humidity is never below 50%, and usually much much higher. My 82 EZ is stock config as far as the engine goes, but an oil cooler was on the bike when I bought it (no thermostat for the cooler). I have never seen the bike get more than halfway between 160* & 210* marks on the oil temp gauge while at any constant speed above a crawl. At an indicated 75mph, same thing. It creeps up while sitting in traffic, but I always cut it off if I sit too long.
I am leaning toward a new (smaller) cooler with a thermostat, and the Series R/R as I begin to put the bike back together. I really appreciate being to reap the benefits of all you intelligent people around here!
I used to work in the summer in Southern Ark during college so I know of the heat/humidity . I'm guessing with a SERIES R/R you would not even need a cooler if those are your current temp ranges.
Jim
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