melted plug

[Guest]

I was nosing around checking things over on the bike and found a melted plug. It is the four pin plug that connects the wiring harness to the R/R. The stator and R/R have both been replaced with items from electrosport. The charging system is working but why so much heat at this plug?

Here is a pic.

[850 Combat]

I would suspect that there is resistance in the plug. In the crimps to the wires, or in the plug connections between the two haves of the four pin plug.

[mrbridgeport]

I just replaced my Stator and R/R with new stuff from electrosport a couple days ago. I would drop that plug and re-wire the four with 4 fresh bullets connectors and see where that takes you. How long ago did you install the new stuff?

[Nessism]

Unfortunately, if you buy off the shelf charging system parts for a GS and plug them into the old harness connectors, this type of problem is likely to occur. Suzuki's wiring scheme for the GS had flaws which should be corrected first, plus the old harness plugs are likely to have some corrosion so that's a double whammy.

Please do a search though the archives and read about charging systems and how to hook up the wiring for reliable operation. For example: you should hook up the R/R directly into the stator, not though the old harness connectors.

Don't frett when it comes to charging system issues with your GS, you are in good company.

[dr_fosg8]

Just finished doing a search and some work. I did as recommended and eliminated the factory wiring between the stator and R/R. Stator is now directly connected to the R/R with brand new bullet connectors. The red wire from the r/r is also reconnected with new connectors. Should I disconnect the red wire from the old harness and go directly to the battery?

mrbridgeport: The new stator and r/r were installed in July of 2008. That plug is the one that came on the new r/r and I cut the factory plug off the harness side and put new female spades on the wires to hook them up. To the best of my knowledge the plug was not melted at the beginning of the season, March of this year. Was the last time I had that side cover off.

[850 Combat]

How are the bullet connectors attached to your wiring? Are these the blue plastinc zinc plated steel kind?

In my experience, they provide fast temporary relief.

[dr_fosg8]

They are crimp-on style connections. Yes they are blue plastic insulated. Got em at the Radio Shack.

[Sparky]

For example: you should hook up the R/R directly into the stator, not though the old harness connectors.

Not to hijack but could you clear that up? I think I did this but want to make sure.

[kamesama980]

looks like hte wiring leading into the original bullet connector is pretty corroded, which would cause the resistance and heat.

[dr_fosg8]

Well after making my connection repairs I have put two 15 mile highway trips on the bike going to work. When I arrived at work I removed the sidecover and felt the stator to r/r wires and connections and they were slightly warm. Nothing too hot, I could hold them continuously with no discomfort at all. Is that normal or should I be looking for more trouble?

I have not checked the voltage drop from the r/r output to the battery yet as I don't have a digital volt meter. If my wiring is not supposed to be generating any heat at all then maybe I will go ahead and replace the wiring from the r/r to the battery.

[TheCafeKid]

IMO (a non electrical one at that so take it for what it's worth) you SHOULD connect the red RR directly to the battery, and install an inline fuse between the two... 20 Amps will be fine... That's what I've done on all my wiring mods, and it's worked quite well.

[dr_fosg8]

TCK, should I leave the r/r connected to the factory harness connection and just run another wire to the battery? Also, my main fuse is currently a 15, should I fuse the wire from r/r to battery the same?

[Nessism]

TCK, should I leave the r/r connected to the factory harness connection and just run another wire to the battery? Also, my main fuse is currently a 15, should I fuse the wire from r/r to battery the same?

Connect the stator directly into the R/R, bypassing the factory wiring. Also, make sure your R/R ground goes to either a solid frame point (no paint between the ground and the frame) or the battery. The Positive can go direct to the battery as Josh says, or straight into the fuse block. I like the direct to the battery route but I've used both without trouble as long as the connections are clean.

[TheCafeKid]

Sorry I should have been more clear. Go directly to the batt from the RR with the red wire, use nothing in the harness as far as the red wire goes for the charging system. There is a three way split with a crimp on the red wire, and it gies off in various directions leaving the chance for some resistance build up somewhere. If you go straight to the battery with this, you bypass all this nonsense and it becomes a much cleaner, more direct route, while still leaving everything else functioning as it should... Except the current path has changed which is why I use the inline fuse between the RR and Batt.

[dr_fosg8]

So I have come to the conclusion that the standard crimp-on connectors, even though new are not the best long term fix. I would ask what others that change out old connectors are using to replace them? I don't really want to start soldering all my connections but if that is the best solution to old quick connects then maybe with the charging system at least that is what I will do.

Thanks, Parker