New rectifier bad?

[cojiro]

Hello, I am new around here. I have a 1981 gs650g that I've been riding for about two years now. Long story short a few months ago my charging system failed me. (Runs great when running but battery does not charge leaving me stranded wherever I kill it or it dies)

So I replaced both the stator and r/r from ricks through Old Bike Barn and expected to be off again. No such luck for me as I have been fighting electrical demons now. Grounds are solid, wiring is solid, battery is about a year or so old and holds a charge fine. But the darn thing just won't charge the battery. I get nothing more than maybe 13v at the battery at any RPM.

I have been going through stator papers as I see everyone here swears by them.

All tests pass except rectifer. New rectifier. I guess what I'm asking is how common is this?

And also, the rectifier passes this test:

Connect the BLACK multimeter lead to the RED output wire of the RR. Connect the RED multimeter lead to one yellow wire. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires.

and this one:

Connect the RED multimeter lead to the negative output wire (BLACK/WHITE) of the RR. If there is no output wire, connect the black multimeter lead to the RR case Connect the BLACK multimeter lead to one yellow wire. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires.

both looking for around .5v. I read around .51 on all connections

But it fails this one:

Connect the RED multimeter lead to the RED positive output wire of the RR. Connect the BLACK multimeter-lead to one of the yellow wires. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires.

and this one:

Connect the BLACK multimeter lead to the negative output wire (BLACK/WHITE) of the RR . If there is no output wire, connect the black multimeter lead to the RR-case Connect the RED multimeter lead to one yellow wire. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires.

both looking for 1.5v or higher. I read about .95 on all connections

Is there a specific interpretation for the outcome of these tests? Or is it just faulty?

Sorry for the long-winded post, thank you for any help!!!!

-Jacob

[posplayr]

Hello, I am new around here. I have a 1981 gs650g that I've been riding for about two years now. Long story short a few months ago my charging system failed me. (Runs great when running but battery does not charge leaving me stranded wherever I kill it or it dies)

So I replaced both the stator and r/r from ricks through Old Bike Barn and expected to be off again. No such luck for me as I have been fighting electrical demons now. Grounds are solid, wiring is solid, battery is about a year or so old and holds a charge fine. But the darn thing just won't charge the battery. I get nothing more than maybe 13v at the battery at any RPM.

I have been going through stator papers as I see everyone here swears by them.

All tests pass except rectifer. New rectifier. I guess what I'm asking is how common is this?

And also, the rectifier passes this test:

Connect the BLACK multimeter lead to the RED output wire of the RR. Connect the RED multimeter lead to one yellow wire. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires.

and this one:

Connect the RED multimeter lead to the negative output wire (BLACK/WHITE) of the RR. If there is no output wire, connect the black multimeter lead to the RR case Connect the BLACK multimeter lead to one yellow wire. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires.

both looking for around .5v. I read around .51 on all connections

But it fails this one:

Connect the RED multimeter lead to the RED positive output wire of the RR. Connect the BLACK multimeter-lead to one of the yellow wires. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires.

and this one:

Connect the BLACK multimeter lead to the negative output wire (BLACK/WHITE) of the RR . If there is no output wire, connect the black multimeter lead to the RR-case Connect the RED multimeter lead to one yellow wire. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires.

both looking for 1.5v or higher. I read about .95 on all connections

Is there a specific interpretation for the outcome of these tests? Or is it just faulty?

Sorry for the long-winded post, thank you for any help!!!!

-Jacob

Hi welcome aboard, I'm up in SB. Cliff will be along to welcome you aboard.....


Where are you at in the tests?

What part of Phase 1 did you fail?

There are revised Phase 1 tests here.


Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. cojiro,

You'll find that these bike love clean connections. You should clean all connectors and grounds, the fuse box, the ignition switch, etc, every connection in the wiring harness. Check my website for the charging system information I've collected along with Mr. posplayr's excellent guides.

Anyway, I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[tom203]

Did you test your original stator and r/r before replacing them following the test guidelines, or just replace them together? Also, have you wired the stator direct to r/r avoiding the loop going to headlight switch? Since you're getting 13 volts at all rpms, it sounds like some current is being produced-maybe it's grounding out somewhere. Next time it runs, put your hand on r/r- it should not be hot.

[jbs80106]

Its not super common but possible the new reg/rect is bad. I had a new one fail in a matter of months after replacing it. Sounds like something isn't right for sure. If the stator tests okay, check out the warranty policy with Old Bike Barn. Electrosport replaced mine with no question, didn't even pay shipping.

[cojiro]

Thanks for the welcomes.

@posplayr - I am at the part of the tests where I took the rectifier off the bike and used a multimeter diode tester on it. It fails the two tests I outlined. Does that simply mean my r/r is faulty? As it is not even running through the wiring harness at this point. There is very little if any voltage drop from the battery and the stator pushes 80v+ at its connections.

@BassCliff - I have been going through all connections and cleaning them without any improvement. I also went through the fuse box and such. I am still going through it but I haven't come up with anything there. Everything looks solid!

@tom203 - I replaced the stator and r/r together. And there is a loop going to the headlight switch. How do I go about cutting that out? And the r/r IS hot to the touch even after just a few minutes of testing. What does that mean?

@jbs80106 - The stator tests fine. And Old Bike Barn has not been helpful to me saying they have a no return policy on electrics..... I am going to pursue that more though. I should've went through electrosport.


This whole thing has left me with a bad taste in my mouth and I just want to ride.... I missed out on the whole summer.

[chuckycheese]

Me too

Its not super common but possible the new reg/rect is bad. I had a new one fail in a matter of months after replacing it. Sounds like something isn't right for sure. If the stator tests okay, check out the warranty policy with Old Bike Barn. Electrosport replaced mine with no question, didn't even pay shipping.

I had a similar experience. I bought a new Rick's R/R when I had my 750 and it seemed to be defective. I sent it back and they agreed. It was replaced and the new one worked perfectly. I don't think it's very common but it's certainly something to consider.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Old Bike Barn is in the dead beat forum I think. If it is a ricks reg ? Why not contact them direct !!!
Did you run the stator wires direct to the regulator.. Had a 1100G where the stator runs into the harness, the harness part was bad..

[tom203]

Looks like r/r is defective since it gets hot quickly and doesn't produce the juice. But first, go to Basscliff's site and download wiring diagram for your bike. You should quickly see how to find the headlight loop wire from one stator phase and eliminate this by making sure all three stator wires go direct to r/r. While you're at it, add a ground wire from r/r 's ground wire direct to battery negative- this is another problem as these bikes age.Best to replace old bullet connectors with spade style ( or solder them ) to ensure good contacts. Plenty of riding time left!

[duaneage]

I offer Honda R kits for a reasonable 45 dollars delivered. If you decide to go with a proven reliable regulator shoot me a PM, I have plenty in stock.

[posplayr]

I offer Honda R kits for a reasonable 45 dollars delivered. If you decide to go with a proven reliable regulator shoot me a PM, I have plenty in stock.

I doubt that would even solve the problem. He says he has followed all the recommendations but has not cut the the headlamp loop out .

He has checked all connections but doesn't confirm he has low drops from R/R to battery. So who knows. With a 6th wire you just give him something else to worry about.

He has a new Ricks which is probably still in warranty


cojiro LETS START OVER FROM THE START BECAUSE I THINK YOU HAVE GOTTEN AHEAD OF YOUR SELF

Here is what you said:

I get nothing more than maybe 13v at the battery at any RPM.

OK that means you failed the very first step

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/FH012AA_Charging/Stator_Papers_Phase%20A.pdf

STEP #1 MEASURE CHARGING VOLTAGE

Check
that the battery voltage
increases
from 12.8V to over

13.5V with RPM

Which means you move down to to Step #2

Lower than 13.5 V
Check connections

STEP #2

Then you do STEP #2

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/FH012AA_Charging/Stator_Papers_Phase%20A.pdf

STEP #2 MEASURE POSITIVE LEAD VOLTAGE DROP

connect the black
multimeter lead to the battery (+). Connect the red
multimeter lead to the RED output wire of the RR

(+). Leave the RR connected to the bike

.

INCREASE ENGINE SPEED To 5000 RPM

Check the reading on the meter.

What is this measurement? it is critical to determining how to proceed in the diagnosis and 9 out of 10 people do not report this number and expect help.

Once you figure out how to get that number below 0.25 volts at 5K RPM

Bad connection in the positive

lead from

RR (+) to battery (+).

Check the entire lead (suspect

the connectors as well as the
fuse-box and fuses). Good
connections are extremely
important in this high current
lead.

Solve the problem and
move to STEP #3

Do the same on the negative side

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/FH012AA_Charging/Stator_Papers_Phase%20A.pdf

STEP #3 MEASURE NEGATIVE LEAD VOLTAGE DROP

Connect the red multimeter lead up to the

battery's negative pole (-) Connect the black
multimeter lead up to the negative output of the
RR (-) (BLACK/WHITE), but leave the RR
connected up to its leads on the bike. If you can't
find a negative output wire, then the casing of the
RR is normally the negative lead to the frame.

INCREASE ENGINE SPEED To 5000 RPM

Check the reading on the meter.

These steps are defined the way they are so that if they are followed you will find the problem, the second set of phases are really only to fault isolate components (stator v.s. R/R). The step as pretty simple just follow them

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com..._Phase%20A.pdf

[cojiro]

ahem

Thanks for all of the response everyone.

I will look into cutting out the loop, but doesn't power need to be routed there anyways? And I will be contacting Rick's directly on Monday.

@posplayr - Sorry, I thought I said before. I have completed the flow chart all the way to the r/r tests.

On the positive lead voltage drop test- .03v @5000RPM
On the negative lead voltage frop test- .002v @5000RPM

Stator output as previously stated is 80v+. I don't remember the exact numbers but it was definately pushing well.

I have been doing my homework.

Bottom line for me.
The r/r fails the tests while detached from the bike. Therefore, said r/r is bad. That is logical, is it not?

[posplayr]

Thanks for all of the response everyone.

I will look into cutting out the loop, but doesn't power need to be routed there anyways? And I will be contacting Rick's directly on Monday.

@posplayr - Sorry, I thought I said before. I have completed the flow chart all the way to the r/r tests.

A.) On the positive lead voltage drop test- .03v @5000RPM
On the negative lead voltage frop test- .002v @5000RPM

Stator output as previously B.) stated is 80v+. I don't remember the exact numbers but it was definately pushing well.

I have been doing my homework.

Bottom line for me.
The r/r fails the tests while detached from the bike. Therefore, said r/r is bad. That is logical, is it not?

With A.) and B.) above send back the Ricks it is not working.

Remember after installing a new R/R you need to recheck those A.) voltages as there is likely no current flowing to the battery so the test is not stressing.

The stator wire to teh headlamp loop is a bandaid that will get the left hand switchhot unless teh conenctros are very good. best to get rid of it .