Charging System QUICK TEST

[kckershovel]

key off 12.56 key on not running 12.1 engine running all rpm 12.1 key off 12.56

[posplayr]

key off 12.56 key on not running 12.1 engine running all rpm 12.1 key off 12.56

stator; revised phase B tests

[bwanna]

key off 12.56 key on not running 12.1 engine running all rpm 12.1 key off 12.56

Sounds like the stator might have a problem. Posplayer's tests for the r/r and the stator are the best and will give an accurate indication of what the problem is.

[mikerophone]

Quick test results and a question for you

Pos - as discussed instead of having it it connected directly to the battery like discussed in post #44 here, I connected my Compufire 55402 to the red wire in the harness at the "T" which on my bike is like 10" upstream from the old factory R/R plug (see photos) and ever since my old R/at blew and boiled my battery and popped all of my LED's, I've wanted a new battery so I got a new one today and am still trickle charging it so on with the connections.

The "T" was crimped with a brass crimp, wrapped in a thick blue electrical type tape, and the wires in the harness there are very clean and pretty much pristine. The harness looked factory wrapped without any openings or typical gummy residue that seems to happen when unravelled (at least until I handled then with my grimy gloves) so I can only assume that it was all stock. I tinned the leads and soldered and shrink wrapped my 10 gauge hot wire from the new R/R into the "T" and here are my test results:

1.) key off................12.9


2.) key on 12.5


3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....14.3


4.) at 2500 rpm 14.3


5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.2


6.) key off.....13.4 (after about 20 seconds)

Results seem ok to me other than being a tenth of a volt lower at 5000RPM but I will test again soon, and install my new battery as well.

Here's my "T" after unwrapping, there are 4 red wires here. 2 that go upstream towards the headlight/main harness, and 2 that come from the fuse box plug (one that is always hot, straight from the battery, and one that T's off from the fuse box but isn't hot unless the pigtail is plugged in):



After I had already cut the brass crimp and unravelled the tape a bit further I found this - another blue piece of thick blue tape with a short lead taped along with the red running towards the headlamp. The photo below shows it removed. I can only assume that was the "foot or leg" of the T and I could have connected from the R/R here but I had already cut it and I wanted to slip some shrink wrapping over everything to seal against the elements anyway.



My question is where do I put the fuse - in between where I spliced in and the fuse box? Seems pointless, since the fuse box is (well, fused :-) ) 10 inches away from where I tapped into the T... Is this different on other bikes? I suppose for clarity I should draw it up. I've seen some of your drawings, maybe I'll take a crack at that and upload it in the morning from work.

[posplayr]

If you are using a 5 position fuse box , on of these is labeled main and there is no need for another fuse. Also this has nothing to do with quick test. You should start another thread.

[mikerophone]

If you are using a 5 position fuse box , on of these is labeled main and there is no need for another fuse. Also this has nothing to do with quick test. You should start another thread.

Sorry about ragging onto this thread, wasn't sure if you'd see it... Should I delete these posts and copy them into a new one to keep it clean? Can do if you'd prefer.

5 position fuse box - that's what I have - so sounds like I'm good, other than a slight drop in voltage at 5k RPM's. I'll double check/clean connections on both the positive and ground sides and make sure everything is tight.

Thanks again for for this service to all of us GSRers!!

[posplayr]

Sorry about ragging onto this thread, wasn't sure if you'd see it... Should I delete these posts and copy them into a new one to keep it clean? Can do if you'd prefer.

5 position fuse box - that's what I have - so sounds like I'm good, other than a slight drop in voltage at 5k RPM's. I'll double check/clean connections on both the positive and ground sides and make sure everything is tight.

Thanks again for for this service to all of us GSRers!!

One post is not going to hurt anything. You should still do the revised phase a tests to measure those drops.

[Bizzel]

Hi there. Thanks for the great information so far. I did the test but I can't figure out whether it's my battery of my charging system (or both?)

My readings are

Key off: 12.58
Key on (w hl): 11.99
Idle: 12.3
revving @ 2k: 13.3
revving @ 5k: 13,2
Idle: 12.7
Key off: 12.77

It does seem to be charging because the voltage is higher after I've let it run for a bit. I have the problem that my bike won't start after it has sat for a while (like a few hours). Any ideas?

[bwanna]

Hi there. Thanks for the great information so far. I did the test but I can't figure out whether it's my battery of my charging system (or both?)

My readings are

Key off: 12.58
Key on (w hl): 11.99
Idle: 12.3
revving @ 2k: 13.3
revving @ 5k: 13,2
Idle: 12.7
Key off: 12.77

It does seem to be charging because the voltage is higher after I've let it run for a bit. I have the problem that my bike won't start after it has sat for a while (like a few hours). Any ideas?

Seems low.
1. Check ground connection. I actually ran a separate 12ga wire from the battery ground directly to the regulator ground. The grounding is VERY important.

2. Check and clean stator/regulator connectors. Oxidation, even slight, can reduce the charging ability.

[posplayr]

Seems low.
1. Check ground connection. I actually ran a separate 12ga wire from the battery ground directly to the regulator ground. The grounding is VERY important.

2. Check and clean stator/regulator connectors. Oxidation, even slight, can reduce the charging ability.

The best grounding is as I laid out for Single Point Ground, in this schematic in GS Charging health. You have to collect up 3 ground returns (Harness,Frame,Battery) and then run them to the R/R(-) . The battery is one of them but not the only. SPG should be as close to the R/R as practical.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?152769-GS-Charging-System-Health&p=1138531#post1138531

The charging results here are in a classic ambiguity zone of low charging voltages (13.2-13.5 is way Too low). I like to confirm whether or not there is any actual power being generated from the alternator or is it just coming from the battery. The change from Step 1 to step 6 (in bold) shows an increase in voltage so we suspect it is charging some. We need to measure the current from the R/R. We can do that one of two ways. 1.) Measure voltage drops between the R/R and the battery(Refer to Revised Phase A tests of the Stator Pages). or 2.) Get an AC current clamp described here.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?233793-RELIABLE-and-CHEAP-STATOR-TESTING&highlight=stator

Key off: 12.58
Key on (w hl): 11.99
Idle: 12.3
revving @ 2k: 13.3
revving @ 5k: 13,2
Idle: 12.7
Key off: 12.77

Once you have that and give a quick clean, you can confirm that it is a contacts problem by doing the Phase A tests in the stator pages. If your are high that is good as it would explain you low charging voltages. Something that can be fixed by properly cleaning (e.g. Naval Jelly ,and DeOxit). If there are no voltage drops (or below 0.05V) then you might have a stator problem. So at this point it is a toss up.

I have also posted about using a inexpensive clamp on meter here which would be a quick way to test the stator.

[Bizzel]

Thank you guys for the reply. I'll try cleaning the connections & making sure everything is grounded correctly first, that shouldn't be too hard. I'll think I'll get a new battery anyway, since this one is quite old and still doesn't have factory specs after being on the trickle charger for a week..

[Bizzel]

Too bad, I cleaned the connections & checked the ground and that seemed fine. I also measured the a/c voltages from the stator and they were very low, between 28 and 40 V. So I think the stator is probably bad, sadly. I'm thinking about selling the bike.

[cowboyup3371]

Why sell it? Post up what kind of a bike you have (place it in your signature) and where you are located. Steve, member here, was selling rewound stators at one point in time and there are many posts about fixing these kinds of issues.

[growler]

Did my charging system quick test today. This is with the battery right off the tender. Is there a certain amount of time you have to have the bike running? This was done after warming up for 60 seconds.


Key off: 12.9
Key on (w hl): 12.2
Idle: 12.3
revving @ 2k: 12.3
revving @ 5k: 12.38
Idle: 12.38
Key off: 12.32

[posplayr]

Did my charging system quick test today. This is with the battery right off the tender. Is there a certain amount of time you have to have the bike running? This was done after warming up for 60 seconds.


Key off: 12.9
Key on (w hl): 12.2
Idle: 12.3
revving @ 2k: 12.3
revving @ 5k: 12.38
Idle: 12.38
Key off: 12.32

Battery is good, Charging sucks. I would do the Stator tests Revised Phase B . Measure VAC A.) leg to leg (needs to be about 80VAC) and B>) leg to ground (0 VAC) at 5K RPM.