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    #16
    hmm thanks guys, i'll check into that when i get home today

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      #17
      Ok so here's tonight's update. It seems that the orange/white wires are fine. I checked for continuity between them at the coils, and it checked out fine, which led me to believe that it was the black/yellow wire coming from the coil that had 0V across it. I went and checked at the igniter itself, and at the ignieor there was still 9.8V between the orange/white and the white, and 0V between the orange/white and the black/yellow. Could the issue be stemming from the igniter itself?

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        #18
        The O/W wire goes through the kill switch to the coils and then to the ignitor. The ignitor does not supply power to the coils via the O/W wire.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #19
          Originally posted by qwqb View Post
          Ok so here's tonight's update. It seems that the orange/white wires are fine. I checked for continuity between them at the coils, and it checked out fine, which led me to believe that it was the black/yellow wire coming from the coil that had 0V across it. I went and checked at the igniter itself, and at the ignieor there was still 9.8V between the orange/white and the white, and 0V between the orange/white and the black/yellow. Could the issue be stemming from the igniter itself?
          the outputs of the ignitor ground the negative sides of the coil to get current to flow through the coils. When they open up is when the coils fire. So when the negative side of the coil equals the high side of the coil the ignitor is open.

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            #20
            so you're saying its normal to have the 0V reading across the coil then.

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              #21
              I'm still digesting this but.... How about you unplug the Y/B black wire from the coil ( this is the wire that comes from ignitor ).With ignition on, touch briefly a jumper wire from the coil terminal to a good ground- do you get a nice spark at a corresponding plug?
              1981 gs650L

              "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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                #22
                When I unplug the Black/Yellow wire, I must also unplug the Orange/White wire, correct? Since they are both soldered to the coil terminals, I have to unplug both at once, via the white connecting plug, right?

                Do I need the Orange/White wire to be connected to perform this test?

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                  #23
                  I forgot that your coils have wires direct attached, unlike mine that uses spade connectors.You say you have a plug that houses both the O/W and the B/Y going to coil - rather than seperate connectors? What I was trying to do was to see if coil would fire "manually", but you need to have O/W powered, but B/Y disconnected so not to backfeed ignitor during this.
                  1981 gs650L

                  "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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                    #24
                    ill try to ground the black/yellow from the igniter to the negative batt terminal

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                      #25
                      Use jumpers at the coil plugs. Roach clips with wire.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                        #26
                        Ok I did the test and the plugs fire when the Black/Yellow wire is grounded/ungrounded. Does this mean that the coil is in good shape?

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                          #27
                          A good spark is a good sign. Now you have to determine why ignitor is not able to fire thru B/Y wire connection. Probably dirty connections somewhere - either between ignitor and coil or between signal generator and ignitor. Remember the signal generator sends small pulse to ignitor which decides to make/break the B/Y ground connection. Go to Basscliff's site for some testing guidelines. Personally, I doubt the signal generator has a problem unless it was hit. Good luck
                          1981 gs650L

                          "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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                            #28
                            it would have been nice to borrow an igniter and just plugged it in..
                            i may have mentioned this a few days ago.
                            not being a smart a$$ i'm just saying......
                            this is what i do when i have the parts available to trouble shoot.

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
                              it would have been nice to borrow an igniter and just plugged it in..
                              i may have mentioned this a few days ago.
                              not being a smart a$$ i'm just saying......
                              this is what i do when i have the parts available to trouble shoot.
                              You mean take a known good unit and plug it into your bike to troubleshoot the problem?
                              Mind blowing
                              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                                You mean take a known good unit and plug it into your bike to troubleshoot the problem?
                                Mind blowing
                                i don't think this guy wants to reinvent the wheel..he just wants to ride.
                                so yes..
                                known good box...plug it in and see if that fixes the problem.
                                ok,
                                i'll let you get back to your quantum physics experiments now.

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