Electrical Harness Compatability?

[stiksave]

Posplayr, the quick test was done before I ran the r/r directly to the battery. Did that after you suggested to do that. I ran the stator phase A today, drops on + - were less then 0.17, voltage at the battery @ 2500 rpm is 14.18v, 14.30v @ 5000 rpm. So according to the test data, it's good. Also passed NYS inspection today. Thanks.

[posplayr]

Posplayr, the quick test was done before I ran the r/r directly to the battery. Did that after you suggested to do that. I ran the stator phase A today, drops on + - were less then 0.17, voltage at the battery @ 2500 rpm is 14.18v, 14.30v @ 5000 rpm. So according to the test data, it's good. Also passed NYS inspection today. Thanks.

OK those are good numbers.

There are many people that come on saying they checked everything and changed all connections but you never know especially when they don't say what their results were. I guess it is only natural but those people that end up here usually don't know how to run a volt meter either.

The Quick tests as described is a sanity tests for a quick looks or when unusual results are encountered.

With 14 amps coming from the R/R it only takes 0.1 ohms (total on either the positive side or negative side) to drop 1.4V so there is essentially no way to measure this unless you actually do the tests described.

[stiksave]

Well, IMHO, if someone who knows something that you don't, tells you what to do, and asks that you feedback the information requested to ensure that you understand the instructions, you just do it. Everyone learns from the info. Whether it's the results of the phase A test, or you read the procedures and figure out how to use a voltage meter, everyone learns because it's on a forum. I started this thread a few years ago, so it continues to be a ready reference for my bike. So thanks again.

I used the plug off my battery buddy connector to make all of the battery test points. The positive post on the battery is under the tank on the 1100, so it's a bit awkward to make sure that you have contact and then reach the throttle. The connector made for better access.

[posplayr]

Well, IMHO, if someone who knows something that you don't, tells you what to do, and asks that you feedback the information requested to ensure that you understand the instructions, you just do it. Everyone learns from the info. Whether it's the results of the phase A test, or you read the procedures and figure out how to use a voltage meter, everyone learns because it's on a forum. I started this thread a few years ago, so it continues to be a ready reference for my bike. So thanks again.

I used the plug off my battery buddy connector to make all of the battery test points. The positive post on the battery is under the tank on the 1100, so it's a bit awkward to make sure that you have contact and then reach the throttle. The connector made for better access.

Well done.


I kinda hate to ask at this point. Any idea what kind of R/R that is off of a Gull wing? It is large. Is it SHUNT, FET SHUNT or SERIES (those are the primary kinds). I think I can make out that it is a 5 wire unit.

[stiksave]

It is a 5 wire unit. I bought it off of e-bay a couple of years back, so I don't remember the id. I have to change my valve cover gasket and adjust the valves, when I get to it I'll pull the r/r and get a part #. I know I bought it because of the 5 wire config as seen in BikeCliff's install instructions. The attempt that I screwed up was a 6 wire unit. That bad install cost me an r/r and main harness. Anywho, it's all good now. I have a brand new oem harness for a 1983 1100E that I didn't use that I have to sell, maybe here or e-bay.

[stiksave]

Since it snowed here this morning, it seemed like a good time to replace the valve cover gasket and adjust the valves. I pulled the r/r also. It's actually off of a 04-06 Yamaha R1, part #FH011AA. It's rated at 50amps. So there you are.

[posplayr]

Since it snowed here this morning, it seemed like a good time to replace the valve cover gasket and adjust the valves. I pulled the r/r also. It's actually off of a 04-06 Yamaha R1, part #FH011AA. It's rated at 50amps. So there you are.

That is a MOSFET unit or FET and if you use that with an Electrosport stator my experience is it will burn the stator pretty quickly. Using a Series R/R like the Compufire will save the stator and keep an 1100 cooler. It helps some for a stock bike but did as much as an oil cooler with the 1166 kit.

The Electrosport stator is supposed to have a 20% higher output, but that would be at lower RPM only. So that combination with the high efficiency SHUNT MOSFET will burn the stator. A stock stator(or equivalent) will probably fair better.

[stiksave]

That is a MOSFET unit or FET and if you use that with an Electrosport stator my experience is it will burn the stator pretty quickly. Using a Series R/R like the Compufire will save the stator and keep an 1100 cooler. It helps some for a stock bike but did as much as an oil cooler with the 1166 kit.

The Electrosport stator is supposed to have a 20% higher output, but that would be at lower RPM only. So that combination with the high efficiency SHUNT MOSFET will burn the stator. A stock stator(or equivalent) will probably fair better.

So that being said. I do have a stock stator, it's actually the original. I guess I'm ok with this setup? Right or wrong?, Nothing overheats, r/r or stator wiring.

[posplayr]

So that being said. I do have a stock stator, it's actually the original. I guess I'm ok with this setup? Right or wrong?, Nothing overheats, r/r or stator wiring.

You should be OK then. For some reasons the bikes out west seem to run hotter. Now sure why.