charging problems still!

[Guest]

So far I have a new stator, new electrosport r/r, new fusebox (no more glass fuses!), have replaced every connections to anything to do with this part of system. Have r/r positive directly to battery pos.with in line fuse, and r/r ground direct to battery neg. and casing ground to frame. Battery read 12.9 volts with key off, key on dropped to 10.2, pushed starter button and dropped even further. At idle got 13.1-13.2, at 2500rpms got 14.6,at 5000 about the same-14.6-14.7 volts, turned off key and battery read 12.9. But try to start if more than a couple of times and battery drags and will start sometimes, and then not at all. Had battery tested about a month ago and checked out ok even on load. My guess is the battery since I have all the new parts, especially with the 10.2 when turn on key. Idle numbers and rpm ones are in range according to stator papers (says should be charging fine).Any thoughts or ideas would be much welcomed! terrylee

[jbs80106]

I may be wrong but after the load of starting puts a draw on the battery, it takes some time to actually recharge the battery back to full, so not too suprising that many start/off/start/off/start/off cycles without some duration of actually running at RPMs to recharge drains the battery.

Try doing your checks (start w/fully charged battery), start, rev, check voltage...ride for atleast 15 minutes. Stop. Off, check battery voltage, repeat. That would give you more realistic values to know if it's working or not. It can take a lot out of the battery to start one of these bad boys...

[posplayr]

So far I have a new stator, new electrosport r/r, new fusebox (no more glass fuses!), have replaced every connections to anything to do with this part of system. Have r/r positive directly to battery pos.with in line fuse, and r/r ground direct to battery neg. and casing ground to frame. Battery read 12.9 volts with key off, key on dropped to 10.2, pushed starter button and dropped even further. At idle got 13.1-13.2, at 2500rpms got 14.6,at 5000 about the same-14.6-14.7 volts, turned off key and battery read 12.9. But try to start if more than a couple of times and battery drags and will start sometimes, and then not at all. Had battery tested about a month ago and checked out ok even on load. My guess is the battery since I have all the new parts, especially with the 10.2 when turn on key. Idle numbers and rpm ones are in range according to stator papers (says should be charging fine).Any thoughts or ideas would be much welcomed! terrylee

Sound like your system is charging but the battery is hosed only supporting a surface charge. It should not drop below 12.4V from 12.9V with key on.

Give it a slow charge over nite and see if it will pass the quick test.

Want to just get a feel for how the charging is working? Do a Quick_Test

[terrylee]

Thanks guys, you're probably right I'm starting it too much without it running. I did charge the battery overnight and it did read 13.6 with key off and 12.8 when turned key on, and 14.6 at 2500 rpms. All I had time for this morn. Thanks again. terrylee

[tom203]

Your charging seems decent. My bike has a weak battery ( arrived with two cells low). If I put on charger overnight, it will show 13.2 volts, but will quickly fall down to 12.5 once charger is pulled. If I measured it right now, it's probably sitting at 12.3v. During testing, key on ( no crank) voltage drops to 11 or worse, but bike starts immediately and charging output is good . I use a plug in voltmeter in an accessory plug just below my left side cover. When I safety can, I look at it while riding- my voltage never hits 14.5v. and idle seems to hold at 12.5v.Yes, I need to replace battery- this winter, honest!
As jbs80106 stated, you can't do a whole bunch of starts without replenishing battery.

[terrylee]

Mine drops to 11-10 volts as soon as turn key on and it drags when I hit the start button, will start most of time but drags like battery is low the entire time it's cranking. thinking of just replacing battery and go from there. terrylee

[posplayr]

Thanks guys, you're probably right I'm starting it too much without it running. I did charge the battery overnight and it did read 13.6 with key off and 12.8 when turned key on, and 14.6 at 2500 rpms. All I had time for this morn. Thanks again. terrylee

This must have been with the charger still connected. Test doesnt allow cheating

[posplayr]

Mine drops to 11-10 volts as soon as turn key on and it drags when I hit the start button, will start most of time but drags like battery is low the entire time it's cranking. thinking of just replacing battery and go from there. terrylee

If that is as good as the battery can do after an overnite charge it is gone.

[derwood]

if open circiut voltage is less than 12.8 ish on a fully charged battery,the battery should be replaced.
to help diagnose any connection/conductor issues you should check voltage drops from,
bat + to starter terminal while cranking
bat- to starter housing while cranking
the voltmeter should read less than 1 (one) volt. the less the better.

[posplayr]

[QUOTE=derwood;1277669]if open circiut voltage is less than 12.8 ish on a fully charged battery,the battery should be replaced.
to help diagnose any connection/conductor issues you should check voltage drops from,
bat + to starter terminal while cranking
bat- to starter housing while cranking
the voltmeter should read less than 1 (one) volt. the less the better.[/QUOTE]

I think you mean not lower than 1V less than open circuit voltage.


I would not throw the battery out unless you got a big drop under load. My DVM bounces around too much and the bike starts to fast to measure voltage when cranking. Turning the Key on should not drop the voltage by more than about 0.5V from what I have seen and this is a stable condition.

Granted a somewhat bigger load would be nice, but it does pretty good job for a quick check.

[terrylee]

Charged it again overnight and got 13.2 with key off and dropped to 10.8 with key on. Taking battery in today and have it tested again, and I'm pretty sure buy a new one. Thinking the old stator and r/r may have fried it. thanks for all the help guys! Everything will be new after this. terrylee

[derwood]

[QUOTE=posplayr;1277685][QUOTE=derwood;1277669]if open circiut voltage is less than 12.8 ish on a fully charged battery,the battery should be replaced.
to help diagnose any connection/conductor issues you should check voltage drops from,
bat + to starter terminal while cranking
bat- to starter housing while cranking
the voltmeter should read less than 1 (one) volt. the less the better.[/QUOTE]

I think you mean not lower than 1V less than open circuit voltage.

You misunderstand,
NO, thats not what i mean.
voltage drop should read less than one volt.
IF the reading is more than one volt , there is high resitance somewhere between the 2 voltmeter leads. a bad connection or something. the higher the voltage, the worse the connection. (if the circuit were open you would read battery voltage)

Measure voltage DROP,
disconnect NOTHING
one lead on the Bat positive, one lead on the starter motor terminal... if it reads less than one volt WHILE CRANKING, fine then check the return side (ground/earth)... same way, one lead on the negative post, one lead on the starter motor case.
the voltmeter reads the difference., the higher the voltage reading the higher the resistance.
bracket any suspect areas with the voltmeter leads to pinpoint the fault.

digital meters work better for this

[posplayr]

[QUOTE=derwood;1278066][QUOTE=posplayr;1277685]

if open circiut voltage is less than 12.8 ish on a fully charged battery,the battery should be replaced.
to help diagnose any connection/conductor issues you should check voltage drops from,
bat + to starter terminal while cranking
bat- to starter housing while cranking
the voltmeter should read less than 1 (one) volt. the less the better.[/QUOTE]

I think you mean not lower than 1V less than open circuit voltage.

You misunderstand,
NO, thats not what i mean.
voltage drop should read less than one volt.
IF the reading is more than one volt , there is high resitance somewhere between the 2 voltmeter leads. a bad connection or something. the higher the voltage, the worse the connection. (if the circuit were open you would read battery voltage)

Measure voltage DROP,
disconnect NOTHING
one lead on the Bat positive, one lead on the starter motor terminal... if it reads less than one volt WHILE CRANKING, fine then check the return side (ground/earth)... same way, one lead on the negative post, one lead on the starter motor case.
the voltmeter reads the difference., the higher the voltage reading the higher the resistance.
bracket any suspect areas with the voltmeter leads to pinpoint the fault.

digital meters work better for this

Sounds like cable tests not battery tests but I wnt claim to have an idea about what you thnk you are doing

[terrylee]

Ok got a new battery, charged it overnight and threw it on this morning before work. Got 12.6 with key off, and it only dropped to 12.2-12.1 when turned on key! Only had time for one start up after that, but it started right up and no dragging sounds! Will test everything better when I get home but I think I'm ok now! terrylee

[terrylee]

Works!!

Getting good numbers! 12.8 with key off, 12.4 key on, 13.0 idle, 13.6 at 2500 rpms, 13.9 at 5,000, and then 12.9 with key off. These appear to be pretty good numbers, I'm I right? terrylee