Cooked Rectifier/Regulator

[raistian77]

I have not noticed a whole lot of difference in any of the waveforms I have seen even comparing OEM, Honda, FET and SERIES. When not regulating the outputs are pretty quite, but once the regulation starts all R/R's open from the charging system and 10-12 amps starts being fed from the battery (on a cycle by cycle basis). I think that is where most of the ripple comes from and most all do the same thing except the SERIES which doesnt short the stator.

All seem to use a voltage detector to trigger either an SCR or FET which is pretty abrupt in either case. The FET ones may be a little more intense as the voltage drops are less. I'm wondering if the SERIES have more radiated emissions but have not quantified it yet.

I have a proximity sensor on my rear wheel (on 5 ft of twisted pair) that seems to be picking up some noise. Will be investigating that.

Let me know what you find out, I am interested in that.

Like I sayed it may have been the suzy one was close to failing, I forgot to check if it was A/C being leaked into the system. Had a Cadillac Catera in the shop once that had a BCM behaving strangely. Windows would open and shut at random same with the sunroof. Locks and seat controls would also randomly cycle. Turns out the alternator had failed and was injecting large amounts of A/C current into the system.

I like the looks of the series unit, thinking of eventually upgrading to one of those.

[raistian77]

Also noticed that by the schematic in the "stator papers" the GS charging system is very similar to an automotive alternator of comparable year. minus the motorcycle system spins at a slower rpm.

[posplayr]

Also noticed that by the schematic in the "stator papers" the GS charging system is very similar to an automotive alternator of comparable year. minus the motorcycle system spins at a slower rpm.

Not really the same as an alternator had a field winding that is being regulated by output voltage to control the total output of the alternator.

The SHUNT R/R's simply short the output as there is no Field control. The SERIES is a little more like an alternator as it is able to completely Shut off the output of the stator by opening the windings but that is about as far as it goes as far as similarity.

The early GSXR's did in fact have alternators probably because without them they would burn out the stators at high RPM.

[posplayr]

Let me know what you find out, I am interested in that.

Like I sayed it may have been the suzy one was close to failing, I forgot to check if it was A/C being leaked into the system. Had a Cadillac Catera in the shop once that had a BCM behaving strangely. Windows would open and shut at random same with the sunroof. Locks and seat controls would also randomly cycle. Turns out the alternator had failed and was injecting large amounts of A/C current into the system.

I like the looks of the series unit, thinking of eventually upgrading to one of those.

If a diode shorted then yes there would be alot of AC being pumped into the electrical.

If you end up with a fried stator I would go for the SERIES R/R and get Electrosports stators as they seem well constructed. With the SHUNT R/R there may be slight differences in longevity due to wire size windings but with the SERIES R/R doesn't matter, you just want the stator rugged against vibration and electromotive forces..

[SteveM]

Replaced the RR today with a new unit from RM Stator. Dyelectric grease added and it was a simple plug and play operation. Battery shows 13.86 volts at 1500 rpm idle.

[duaneage]

Glad to see it worked out, I responded to your requests but my inbox was full and it didn't go.

[SteveM]

Glad to see it worked out, I responded to your requests but my inbox was full and it didn't go.

Bummer. Maybe next time then.

[posplayr]

Replaced the RR today with a new unit from RM Stator. Dyelectric grease added and it was a simple plug and play operation. Battery shows 13.86 volts at 1500 rpm idle.

Don't tell me they put a bullet connector on the negative (green wire)????

Hopefully you put a ring lug on it and grounded it to the case with the other single point wires .

[SteveM]

Don't tell me they put a bullet connector on the negative (green wire)????

Hopefully you put a ring lug on it and grounded it to the case with the other single point wires .

The single bullet connector was part of the OEM wiring and the replacement RR used the exact same thing. What's a ring lug?

[posplayr]

The single bullet connector was part of the OEM wiring and the replacement RR used the exact same thing. What's a ring lug?

Ring Lug

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CBQQ8wIwAg#

All current going out the red wire has to come back into that green wire. So any thing that is grounded through the frame somehow has to find it's way back.

If you see my sig you will see a recommendation for improving the grounding to make it better. The main part of that is to get rid of bullet connections between the R/R-stator and battery.

I bought a new harness and still ended up hacking it to make the required changes.

[SteveM]

All current going out the red wire has to come back into that green wire. So any thing that is grounded through the frame somehow has to find it's way back.

If you see my sig you will see a recommendation for improving the grounding to make it better. The main part of that is to get rid of bullet connections between the R/R-stator and battery.

I bought a new harness and still ended up hacking it to make the required changes.

So is it advised to ground that green wire directly to the frame using a ring lug?

[posplayr]

So is it advised to ground that green wire directly to the frame using a ring lug?

see the link