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    #31
    Looks like a great price and I've heard of that name before. HF doesn't seem to ship to Canada though.
    Last edited by Guest; 03-08-2012, 03:32 PM.

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      #32
      Sears, walmart, etc. all sell units under $20. I saw a name brand new unit fail to sell on ebay for $2.99 recently. I would avoid "autoranging" models ( these select the range for you once hooked up ) as they can be confusing at first, but that's a personal view. The unit pictured in previous reply would be a good choice.
      1981 gs650L

      "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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        #33
        Originally posted by SteveM View Post
        Looks like a great price and I've heard of that name before. HF doesn't sem to ship to Canada though.
        Yeah Steve I never heard of Harbor Freight till i sighed up at my previous haunt of SVrider.Just get a cheap multimeter at Canadian Tire,Sears or Walmart.I made the mistake of getting a fancy one when all I really need is a cheap one.This thread reminds me that I got to check my stator connectors.

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          #34
          Sears or Crappy Tire will have to do then. I guess there's no point in getting a Fluke or something like that as it's likely over kill.

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            #35
            Originally posted by tom203 View Post
            I would avoid "autoranging" models ( these select the range for you once hooked up ) as they can be confusing at first, but that's a personal view.
            On the other hand, I PREFER an autoranging model.

            Yeah, it only takes a few minutes to learn to read the display for either one, but with the manual-select models, there can be 20 places you can turn the dial to and it can be very frustrating, as 18 of them won't give you any kind of reading. Simply knowing what you are checking (amps, volt, ohms) and connecting the leads, then reading the display is SO much easier.

            .
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              #36
              Originally posted by Steve View Post
              On the other hand, I PREFER an autoranging model.

              Yeah, it only takes a few minutes to learn to read the display for either one, but with the manual-select models, there can be 20 places you can turn the dial to and it can be very frustrating, as 18 of them won't give you any kind of reading. Simply knowing what you are checking (amps, volt, ohms) and connecting the leads, then reading the display is SO much easier.

              .
              +1 Steve ... I totally agree, plus with a manual unit if you accidentally switch to the wrong range you could "blow up" the meter. Autoranging units are typically more forgiving...

              Regards,

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                #37
                Thanks guys. I'll look for an auto ranging meter.

                I ordered a replacement rectifier/regulator this morning from RM Stator as they are in Canada and delivery will be through UPS tomorrow. No issues with cross border shopping this way. I ordered their part no. RM30306 which is supposed to be plug and play.

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by Steve View Post
                  On the other hand, I PREFER an autoranging model.



                  .
                  Well, I did say it was personal choice!!
                  I have both types. I like to have a rough idea of range - before I plunge my probes in - as I've done lots of work on 3-phase ac stuff.
                  1981 gs650L

                  "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                    Well, I did say it was personal choice!!
                    I have both types. I like to have a rough idea of range - before I plunge my probes in - as I've done lots of work on 3-phase ac stuff.
                    I have a few of each type, they both have their advantages.
                    Usually I use an autoranging digital meter, but to see changing voltages the old analog meter lets you see the needle movement, where a digital one just has a bunch of numbers jumping around, can't read them.

                    For the bike stuff, a digital one is fine. Either type is fine, actually.

                    It is very basic electrical stuff we are checking.
                    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                    Life is too short to ride an L.

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                      #40
                      Lots of good advise here Steve. Yes, its obvious the R/R is bad but, you must make sure the wiring connections or stator are not its killer. If not you get to play the musical R/R game replacing 'em every time you turn around.

                      Also, get the Honda R/R, you will be glad you did. Sheds heat better and have a cleaner waveform than the Suzuki ones.

                      Since I run mine about 100 miles a day, I check the charging system out about once a week. Maybe someday I will stop being lazy and order a indicator.


                      Suzuki did alot of things great however, electronics was not one of 'em.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by raistian77 View Post
                        Also, get the Honda R/R, you will be glad you did. Sheds heat better and have a cleaner waveform than the Suzuki ones.

                        .

                        I noticed this comment; want to elaborate? Not sure why a Honda would been any cleaner.

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                          #42
                          I have contacted member duaneage regarding the Honda RR he sells, but am still waiting for his reply. I'm guessing he's not online much. In any case, I have already paid for a new RR from RM Stator in Quebec and it's scheduled to arrive tomorrow.

                          My bike is virtually spotless and all conections look new without any corriosion I've unplugged, inspected and reconnected everything I could find and it all looks great. I checked the fuse box and all fuses as well.
                          Last edited by Guest; 09-07-2010, 02:33 PM.

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                            I noticed this comment; want to elaborate? Not sure why a Honda would been any cleaner.
                            Aw man, your gonna make me dig it up.

                            I have scope vid somewhere of mine before and after the R/R upgrade. the charging wavefore was cleaner that it was with the Suzuki R/R.

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                              #44
                              Now honestly it may have been a sign the suzy one was old and tired.
                              Turning on and off loads caused hashing in the waveform that took a few cycles the "clean" back up. With the Honda R/R it was much faster and the hashing was nowhere near as severe.

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by raistian77 View Post
                                Now honestly it may have been a sign the suzy one was old and tired.
                                Turning on and off loads caused hashing in the waveform that took a few cycles the "clean" back up. With the Honda R/R it was much faster and the hashing was nowhere near as severe.
                                I have not noticed a whole lot of difference in any of the waveforms I have seen even comparing OEM, Honda, FET and SERIES. When not regulating the outputs are pretty quite, but once the regulation starts all R/R's open from the charging system and 10-12 amps starts being fed from the battery (on a cycle by cycle basis). I think that is where most of the ripple comes from and most all do the same thing except the SERIES which doesnt short the stator.

                                All seem to use a voltage detector to trigger either an SCR or FET which is pretty abrupt in either case. The FET ones may be a little more intense as the voltage drops are less. I'm wondering if the SERIES have more radiated emissions but have not quantified it yet.

                                I have a proximity sensor on my rear wheel (on 5 ft of twisted pair) that seems to be picking up some noise. Will be investigating that.

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