R/R help

[Chasse]

1982 gs300 runs fine with r/r unit unpluged, plug it in and everything get hot this is my second one. Picked up a third one on ebay and it has an extra white wire, does any one know what its for?

[cowboyup3371]

Howdy Chasse. Have you checked out the stator papers yet to find out why you're having the problems? Make sure you have a good battery and then run through them; you'll get most of your issues worked out quickly.

[tom203]

1982 gs300 runs fine with r/r unit unpluged, plug it in and everything get hot this is my second one. Picked up a third one on ebay and it has an extra white wire, does any one know what its for?

Well , no long trips if you don't plug in a working r/r! What is "everything" gets hot? the r/r? Do you have a multimeter, cuz they sure come in handy for testing ebay r/r's and your charging system.
What are the other color wires on this ebay r/r? any name or numbers on it? There's a guy on here that sells reasonably priced used r/r's that are tested- no mystery.

[Chasse]

r/r gets hot and so do the wires behind the head light along with some intense heat from headlight. The wires on the r/r are blue/white-red/white,red,black,and yellow with an extra white wire. My bike does not have a white wire.

[posplayr]

r/r gets hot and so do the wires behind the head light along with some intense heat from headlight. The wires on the r/r are blue/white-red/white,red,black,and yellow with an extra white wire. My bike does not have a white wire.

at what RPM is it getting hot?

[Chasse]

At any rpm. After hooking up r/r and leaving the extra white wire unattached bike ran great and r/r didn't heat up. That was with headlight unpluged, pluged in headlight and popped the fuse, did this twice I think I might have fried the r/r, can not get any reading on volt meter. Will try stator pages again this weekend.

[tom203]

r/r gets hot and so do the wires behind the head light along with some intense heat from headlight. The wires on the r/r are blue/white-red/white,red,black,and yellow with an extra white wire. My bike does not have a white wire.

My original suzuki r/r has red/white, blue/white, yellow ( these 3 are from stator) plus red ( battery positive), black/white (ground). It sounds like this white wire might be a sense wire to monitor voltage at another point- this is what the typical honda (shendengen) r/r does. Yes, do the stator tests.

[Redman]

r/r gets hot and so do the wires behind the head light along with some intense heat from headlight. The wires on the r/r are blue/white-red/white,red,black,and yellow with an extra white wire. My bike does not have a white wire.

Assuming the red wire is the R/R output (to battery) and the other wires are stator wires; I too suspect the white wire is a "sense" wire, that is what wants to detect the battery voltage (rather than monitoring the voltage on its own output red wire). The R/R monitors the voltage on this white wire and then adjusts the output of the R/R in responce to what is "seen" on this wire.

If you do not connect this white wire, then the R/R will act as if the battery voltage is way low and the R/R will crank out everything its got (maybe like 16 or 17 volts which can cause problems after a while). So you could connect everthing else except this, just as a temperary test to see the the R/R and everthing else is working, But will overcharge (and headlight be over bright, kinda like you described).


You might think you can connect this white wire right along with the red wire (to the battery +), and you can, and it will work, and will control the charging voltage -- but, for long term concideration, is likley to cause a drain on the batttery when bike is parked. So you want to connect it to some wire that is turned off when bike is turned off. A good place for this is the power circuit to the rear brake light switch (green/orange wire if like 1100G) because it is physically close.

Oh,... maybe first should have discussed this:
You have a volt meter? You have not stated any voltage readings at all.
Probably a good idea to measure the stator voltlage outputs so know that the stator is okay before hooking up another R/R.
Stator papers describes taking these voltage readings as a functrional test of the stator with the engine running. Also describes checking ohm (continuity) readings without the bike running.
If stator is bad, it can then destroy your R/R real quick, and those symptoms are real similar to what you describe of the R/R getting real hot as soon as you plug it in.
If you have plugged in this latest R/R and it got hot, you can figure it is now bad (even if it was good).

Also:
Maybe add your general location to your profile (goto User CP), then that will show up on every post and maybe someone is nearby that can help.

>>>later note
Now see your posting of 3am this morning. So you do have a voltmeter.

So you did hook up everthing except the white wire, and everthing did work you say (like I was saying, but will be overcharging too high of voltage). So that would make me think the stator could be okay, but still good to check.
But you also say didnt get any reading on voltmeter, which is confusing. Maybe you didnt have meter set to voltage or something, or meter leads not making good connections.

Try like I stated above with the white wire.

.

[posplayr]

Since you are on your third R/R and you say it is getting hot at all RPM's that is suggesting two things.

1.) The R/R is fried again

2.) You have something causing R/R's to go out

(Duh is that too obvious??)

So the more likely culprit as has been stated many many times is bad connections. You should direct connect the R/R to the stator and harness/battery (cut out the OE connectors) and mind your ground connections. Even running the stator pages is probably going to endanger a new R/R.

So my suggestion is to read the last line in my signature and apply those changes to yet another R/R. It doesn't need to be a SERIES R/R but at least get the connections correct. You can then do a quick check or just run through Phase 1 of the stator pages

[Chasse]

Almost there

Hooked up the sense wire to tail light and overcharge problems are gone. At idle it's around 13.2 volts and up on power it's around 13.8 much better than 17.8 bike does not have a tach. I still have the left cylinder dropping of line when ever it wants. I have swapped the coils and it stays on the left side, could this be an ignitor box problem? My location is the Northwest Conn. Thank to all Jim

[eddie1984]

jim thats what it sounds like to me... im haven the same problem so ... and thats what mine is...

[posplayr]

Hooked up the sense wire to tail light and overcharge problems are gone. At idle it's around 13.2 volts and up on power it's around 13.8 much better than 17.8 bike does not have a tach. I still have the left cylinder dropping of line when ever it wants. I have swapped the coils and it stays on the left side, could this be an ignitor box problem? My location is the Northwest Conn. Thank to all Jim

if you had bothered to check the revised stator pages you would no that 13.8 is marginal at best, and we will probabley see you posting back here soon.