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    1 relay v 2 relay?

    I currently have the 1 relay mod setup on my 1000g.
    I was wondering is the 2 relay setup better than the 1 or is it pretty much the same.
    Thanks

    #2
    What is the two relay mod?
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

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      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      What is the two relay mod?
      What is a one relay mod?

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        #4
        What has been modded with your one relay?

        What else would you like to have modded with a relay?

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          #5
          Originally posted by Graham View Post
          What is a one relay mod?
          Coil relay mod? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...relay_mod.html
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

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          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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            #6
            maybe be the coil relay mod and the starter relay mod;

            or maybe the starter relay mod and the horn relay mod,

            or maybe the coil relay mod and the Honda relay mod

            or maybe .......

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              #7
              Coil relay
              I checked out the link and that's the setup I have.
              I ask because I thought I saw a setup on here with a relay for each coil and one for both coils going to one relay.
              I guess it doesn't matter as long as I have right.
              Last edited by Guest; 10-14-2010, 02:46 AM.

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                #8
                It only takes one, they don't pull that much current.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by kng254 View Post
                  Coil relay
                  I checked out the link and that's the setup I have.
                  I ask because I thought I saw a setup on here with a relay for each coil and one for both coils going to one relay.
                  I guess it doesn't matter as long as I have right.
                  either coil will pull about 4 amps (12V/3Ohm)=4 amps and the typical relay will carry 30-50 amps. One relay is more than enough.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                    maybe be the coil relay mod and the starter relay mod;

                    or maybe the starter relay mod and the horn relay mod,

                    or maybe the coil relay mod and the Honda relay mod

                    or maybe .......
                    Use a 4 pole relay !

                    Basic car audio technical information with plenty of graphics. This site starts with the most basic information so that everyone will be able to understand the more advanced topics toward the end of the site.


                    and why have you electro-gurus never told us about quenching diodes and EMF ?
                    Last edited by bonanzadave; 10-14-2010, 09:05 AM.
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                      #11
                      Pretty good tutorial there.

                      The diodes are always a good idea and can't hurt. In answer to your question, though, the tutorial says this:

                      Anytime that a relay coil is driven by a circuit that is not specifically designed to drive a relay, you should use a quenching/suppression diode connected in parallel with the relay coil.
                      In the case of our bikes, the switches and circuits we're using (ignition, start button, headlights, horn, etc) ARE somewhat designed to handle the make-and-break full-current loads. They should handle the coil-only current ok, even the reverse EMF caused by the collapsing field of the coil.

                      But it's a marginal design for the full-current loads, made worse by deterioration over the years. So we add the relays, and therefore ask the switches and wiring to only carry the much lighter current loads of the coils.

                      The diodes aren't really needed, but ain't a bad idea.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by wisgolfer59 View Post
                        Pretty good tutorial there.

                        The diodes are always a good idea and can't hurt. In answer to your question, though, the tutorial says this:



                        In the case of our bikes, the switches and circuits we're using (ignition, start button, headlights, horn, etc) ARE somewhat designed to handle the make-and-break full-current loads. They should handle the coil-only current ok, even the reverse EMF caused by the collapsing field of the coil.

                        But it's a marginal design for the full-current loads, made worse by deterioration over the years. So we add the relays, and therefore ask the switches and wiring to only carry the much lighter current loads of the coils.

                        The diodes aren't really needed, but ain't a bad idea.
                        With the addition of any newer electronic accessories, I would not chance it. I would opt for the suppression diodes to avoid mysterious failures of anything you might put into the system later.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                          Thanks, I didn’t see the reason for a relay. Most ignition systems use resistor wires, resistors or ballast resistors as voltage reducers for coils anyway. I heard they are there to keep the points from burning. Most CDI use internal resistors for voltage control. Most ignition systems only bypass the voltage reducing resistors when starting. I am not sure if any GS has a resistor in the ignition system. The wiring diagram on some the GS1000 and my 83 GS1100 show a power wire in the ignition system with a red tube. Could this be a resistor wire or does the red tube cover a resistor? Has anyone check the Ohms on this wire or a new one? Just something to think about when you put in a “coil relay mod”.

                          No relay mod for me, I don’t want my coils or ignitor going out early.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Graham View Post
                            Thanks, I didn’t see the reason for a relay. Most ignition systems use resistor wires, resistors or ballast resistors as voltage reducers for coils anyway. I heard they are there to keep the points from burning. Most CDI use internal resistors for voltage control. Most ignition systems only bypass the voltage reducing resistors when starting. I am not sure if any GS has a resistor in the ignition system. The wiring diagram on some the GS1000 and my 83 GS1100 show a power wire in the ignition system with a red tube. Could this be a resistor wire or does the red tube cover a resistor? Has anyone check the Ohms on this wire or a new one? Just something to think about when you put in a “coil relay mod”.

                            No relay mod for me, I don’t want my coils or ignitor going out early.
                            If the voltage to your coils drops to about 10.5 V it will cause hard starts and it goes down hill from there. Burning coils up is not generally an issue. Poor supply to coils is.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                              If the voltage to your coils drops to about 10.5 V it will cause hard starts and it goes down hill from there. Burning coils up is not generally an issue. Poor supply to coils is.


                              If there I had a starting issue, I would use the relay mod off the starter button. That would give me 12v when the starter turns and 10.5v when running. I don’t think the wiring from battery to key switch to coils degrade to the point they become resistors. I have not tested the wiring new on a GS before but I have seen this before new on other motorcycles, ATVs, cars, and outboards. I’m not saying that coil power is 10.5v; I’m saying it could have been 10.5v from day one and that it maybe for a reason. Do you know where you are losing voltage and why? Maybe at the fuse, key switch, kill switch or at the end of the o/w wire with the red tube on it? I believe this o/w with red tube (on the wiring diagrams) is a resistor wire to reduce voltage. I haven’t had time to test this out yet but I will. My GS1100 shows it between the fuse and the kill switch. Some GS1000 with points show o/w wire with a red tube before the key switch plug.

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