No Juice

[Max]

I replaced all of the fuses today and converted the main to 15A.

I checked to see if the spark plugs were firing, they were but I put in new ones anyway.

I cleaned my carbs thoroughly, soaking them overnight in "Gunk".

I have been reading that a leaky air box can affect performance, I don't currently have one installed, could this be the problem?

The tank does have a petcock but I am using a temp. tank (funnel to fuel line) at the moment as the tank has some rust and needs a clean.
(Info no how to free tank of rust would also be great.)

P.S. The previous owner had the cylinder head cleaned and resurfaced and the valves adjusted just prior to parking it for a year.

Thanks
Max

[tom203]

I replaced all of the fuses today and converted the main to 15A.

I checked to see if the spark plugs were firing, they were but I put in new ones anyway.

I cleaned my carbs thoroughly, soaking them overnight in "Gunk".

P.S. The previous owner had the cylinder head cleaned and resurfaced and the valves adjusted just prior to parking it for a year.

Thanks
Max

If you spend some time in Basscliff's domain, you will discover the standard problems ( and how to deal with them). Just how did you clean these carbs? diassemble, etc ? It should start without airbox but will run poorly. Unless you know PO (and have lots of faith), be suspicious of any work he claims to have done. Good thinking to use temp fuel tank till you get other stuff sorted out.

[DanTheMan]

Fuel tank cleaning and coating procedure on BassCliff's mega site. The airbox is mucho important! If you get it to run even poorly without it, you're doing good, but it'll be way too lean to continue to run. If you're getting it to "putt", trying to run but not quite getting there that could be the reason.

[Max]

I have all of the receipts from the PO for the work that was done.

I cleaned the carbs by following the instructions (disassembled completely and soaked overnight in "Gunk") on basssclif's site.

[DanTheMan]

Of course, if you haven't done valve adjustments yet, that will play a very large part in the no start problem as well, the "putt, putt" will be all you'll get.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

With stock jetting in the carbs it's almost impossible to get these bikes to run without an airbox. To run its best, the entire air intake system has to be in order, no leaks. This includes the airbox, boots, and O-rings. See the air intake repair guides on my website to get an idea of what may be necessary.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Max]

Of course, if you haven't done valve adjustments yet, that will play a very large part in the no start problem as well, the "putt, putt" will be all you'll get.

The PO had the valves adjusted just prior to parking the bike a year ago. Would they really have to be adjusted even though the bike wasn't run during this period?

[Redman]

The PO had the valves adjusted just prior to parking the bike a year ago. Would they really have to be adjusted even though the bike wasn't run during this period?

I would think not.

Others seem to be saying that not having the airbox on is your primary culprit at the moment.

You said PO had head off, ew, I wonder if it ever ran after that. DO you know?
But then you said he had reciepnts for ewverthiung done, so maybe it was one by professional (not backyard shade tree previous owner).

.

[Max]

I would think not.


You said PO had head off, ew, I wonder if it ever ran after that. DO you know?
But then you said he had reciepnts for ewverthiung done, so maybe it was one by professional (not backyard shade tree previous owner).

.

It was done by a pro, the valve clearances were also adjusted 200 miles prior to parking the bike.

With a new set of plugs, carb clean, and airbox installed (still waiting on filter though) I got the bike to run. It sarted right up and after playing with the choke and idle adjustments for a few minutes (once warm) it ran smoothly.

I noticed that the two middle cylinder head-pipes get much hotter much faster than the outside ones, is this normal?

At first the bike only smoked a little out of the left pipe, but as it got warm it started heavily smoking out of both. I drained the oil and found there to be much more than a gallon (about 1.5), the filter was black as coal.

Changing oil and filter today.

Do you the excessive amount of oil caused the smoke?

What could be causing it to billow like steam train???

Will report back after oil change

Thanks,
Max

[DanTheMan]

Get a filter in that airbox. Cylinders 2 & 3 are warmer than the rest due to a lean condition (burning a lot hotter). Oil was overfull due to fuel dilution in the oil. At this point I seem to remember that you said you were feeding fuel to it via a seperate tank with a hose attached to the carb hose. #2 carb has a vacuum line to operate the petcock, if it's not plugged while you do this will cause the lean condition for #2 cyl. If your float valves leak by and you left your fuel feed open, the fuel leaked past the float valves and ended up in your sump. The extreme oil dilution from fuel caused all that white smoke and other smoke as it all was forced past the piston rings. Not good for the engine really, the bearings don't like it much and neither do the cylinder walls.

[Redman]

...
....

I noticed that the two middle cylinder head-pipes get much hotter much faster than the outside ones, is this normal?

At first the bike only smoked a little out of the left pipe, but as it got warm it started heavily smoking out of both. I drained the oil and found there to be much more than a gallon (about 1.5), the filter was black as coal.

Changing oil and filter today.

Do you the excessive amount of oil caused the smoke?

What could be causing it to billow like steam train???

Will report back after oil change

Thanks,
Max

Max,

I agree with Dan's suggestions.

If problem persists after oil change, and now that your original electrical problems seem to be straightened out, I would suggest posting in the "carb" or the "general maintance" section.

.