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I'm not certain that I agree that the fuses are the issue. Fuses are a safety mechanism placed there to prevent fires and such when the current draw is too high. While I would also go to blade fuses, I would try to find out what is drawing all the extra current. I am not certain why corrosion in the fuse box would increase current draw through the fuses themselves.
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So if I wanted to just re-wire the bike this winter when I get time, is there a kit for it out there?Comment
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Hi,
Sorry, no re-wire kit. If you're patient and meticulous, it's possible to recreate one using the original as a template.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffComment
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Managed to clear out the shed so I have a place to work on the bike finally. I turned the key on and found that electrical burning smell coming from the ignition switch again :/ I imagine that will need to be replaced. I think I'm going to redo all the wiring and replace the current fuse box as well. What is your opinion on the ignition switch? So far, none of the wiring looks burnt or bad so I need to go through the rest of it. It will run but has to have the throttle on to stay running, could this be due to a short in the ignition switch? And any clue why the left blinkers don't work but the right ones do? Can that be due to the signal relay? Thanks!
I am also looking at www.wiringproducts.com for the wire that I will use, but they don't have the color variation I need. Do any of you know where I can buy spools of matching wire for my bike?
BassCliff, would you mind posting a picture of your retro-fitted fusebox so I can get an idea how to mount a different one? Thanks!Last edited by Guest; 10-30-2010, 01:17 PM.Comment
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Found the fusebox. Decently clean and with cover on front. The back plate is missing though so you would have to switch it with the one you have. I'll sell it for the cost of shipping so drop me a PM if you want to discuss.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-ResurrectionComment
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Hi,Originally posted by bobiii84 View Post
I have yet to replace the fuse box on my bike. But here is a picture from one of Mr. Steve's bikes. The new fuse box is mounted pretty much in the same area as the old one.
This is an $8 ATC fuse box from Pep Boys:
One member used 2 fuse boxes under his seat to give him room for expansion:
All the above found using the Search function.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffLast edited by Guest; 10-30-2010, 03:19 PM.Comment
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Sound right?
So I'm going to run through the stator papers tommorow when I'm off but until then I have a theory. It's been about 6 months since I replaced the R/R by going through the stator papers and testing. I ran ground direct and did everything else people suggested. Since my headlamp blew and it looks like the turn signals that were on blew as well, what's the chances that the R/R failed me and allowed a big surge through? That would mean my loose fuse had nothing to do with it like you guys suggest. But if that's the case, why didn't my fuse stop the surge? Just a thought, thanks for your time!Comment
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Hi,
When you say your headlamp and blinkers "blew", do you mean the filaments actually melted and the bulbs are no good? Or did they just quit working?
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffComment
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The filament in the headlamp blew for sure, I checked that the day this happened, and I know I'm getting power to the connector. I won't have time to check the blinkers till tommorow, but I assume since neither of them work while the right side does, that they are blown. I'll post more information tommorow as I find it out. I have an ignition switch on the way brand new for about $25, we'll see how that goes
I also have the fuse box from Nessism coming and I will start testing the bike and running through the wiring tommorow.
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What kind of r/r did you use as a replacement? Did you wire r/r positive (probably red) direct to battery with fuse or thru the harness?Originally posted by bobiii84 View Post1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben FranklinComment
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I bought the r/r from regulatorrectifier.com
1 x 1980 550 GS550L REGULATOR RECTIFIER (10-202)
I wired the negative right to the battery but put the positive through fuse just like it was wired before.Comment
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Hi,
Have you had a chance to take off the tank and the seat to go over the entire wiring harness, looking for melted connectors, worn insulation, corroded connections, etc? Are there any botched connections using wire nuts or electrical tape? Fuses are cheap. Have you replaced all of them? I know wiring issues are just about the worse, but take your time and be methodical. You'll get it.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffComment
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If a fuse seems to be "loose" the chances are good that one of the fuse terminals in the fuse block had heated up and have melted the plastic it is mounted in slightly. This is quite common on the old glass fuse blocks and bending the brass plates to clip the fuse properly does not seem to last. Such fuses also seem to jump out of the clips when riding.
Using such a fuse block creates endless problems and the best is to replace the fuse box immediately with a blade type.
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Wiring sounds good- but that looks like the small r/r's I've seen. Can you measure it and tell me its dimensions? I'm suspicious of the little ones.Originally posted by bobiii84 View Post1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben FranklinComment
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The new r/r is just under 1 3/4" wide and 3" tall. It's much smaller than the original but a little deeper if I'm not mistaken. And BassCliff, I will be pulling off the tank and running through all the wiring/connectors here shortly. Hope to have more for you then!Comment
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