Reg/Rectifier ok but Stator?

[Guest]

Hi all,

Hopefully this will be quick and simple.

I have no charge to battery. Swapped Reg/rectifier with one known to function ok. Still no charge. Checked the three wires from the stator at 5000rpm and get zero voltage also checked for resistance but none.

I have a spare stator (thought to be ok). Am I right to proceed to replacement?

Cheers

[bobiii84]

I'm sure this isn't the case but just to be sure, you checked voltage from the stator with A/C volts right? Assuming you did that I think it would make sense that either the rotor or the stator was bad. Did you go through the stator papers completely? Make sure you do that first! Good luck!

[tom203]

Did you go through the stator papers completely? Make sure you do that first! Good luck!

Of course he did!
Colin: seems strange that you get no AC reading at all- try your meter on AC house wiring to make sure meter is ok. You could also ohm test your stator in place- should be about 1 ohm between any two stator wires , but infinite resistance to ground. But this is no substitute for the stator paper tests! Glad you have spares on hand!

[posplayr]

,

Hopefully this will be quick and simple.

Well this is...

Want to just get a feel for how the charging is working? Do a Quick_Test

And as Tom said, best practice is to first test your test equipment against a known standard.

Using household AC to insure the 120 VAC works on your meter is the easiest way.

Remember all stator tests on the stator are to confirm it is bad none confirm it is good.

[KiwiGS]

Gday Croc,
Like everyone has said check your meter using the "Prove-test-prove"* method.
Zero ohms on all legs of the stator is a bit sus, not impossible but sus all the same.....


*Prove it on a known source of voltage, eg power point (should get about 230-240V), test the stator, then prove it on the same known power point as before (should be the same as the first reading).

[Matchless]

Did you know that the alternator out put can light up a household bulb? Put a bulb across any two of the 3 wires, nice light, probably nice AC voltage!
Be careful with shorting or touching

[Colin Green]

Thank you everyone. I will take all your advice (prolly tomorrow or Wednesday)

[posplayr]

Did you know that the alternator out put can light up a household bulb? Put a bulb across any two of the 3 wires, nice light, probably nice AC voltage!
Be careful with shorting or touching

That is probably the best test if you could make a plug so that you can connect the voltmeter and a 60W bulb (??) all at the same time. Figure out what the new voltage per RPM characteristics is.

A fixed resistor and volt meter would work as well.

[Colin Green]

I'm sure this isn't the case but just to be sure, you checked voltage from the stator with A/C volts right? Assuming you did that I think it would make sense that either the rotor or the stator was bad. Did you go through the stator papers completely? Make sure you do that first! Good luck!

Of course he did!
Colin: seems strange that you get no AC reading at all- try your meter on AC house wiring to make sure meter is ok. You could also ohm test your stator in place- should be about 1 ohm between any two stator wires , but infinite resistance to ground. But this is no substitute for the stator paper tests! Glad you have spares on hand!

Doh! Doh! Doh!

Well this is...


And as Tom said, best practice is to first test your test equipment against a known standard.

Using household AC to insure the 120 VAC works on your meter is the easiest way.

Remember all stator tests on the stator are to confirm it is bad none confirm it is good.

I went through all of the tests after having started the bike half a dozen times with the stator cables disconnected (while re-testing AC voltage) and it was all pretty good as follows

1. 12.8
2. 12.1 (I guess that tells a story about light switch connections?)
3. 12.4
4. 12.4
5. 12.4
6. 12.7

Yes I did re-connect the stator cables for all the good it did.

My battery is less than a year old and has only done a couple of thousand miles. I keep it on trickle charge when not riding it due to the lack of charging. Pretty sure its good to go.

Gday Croc,
Like everyone has said check your meter using the "Prove-test-prove"* method.
Zero ohms on all legs of the stator is a bit sus, not impossible but sus all the same.....


*Prove it on a known source of voltage, eg power point (should get about 230-240V), test the stator, then prove it on the same known power point as before (should be the same as the first reading).

Yup, I'm a goose. Had it set on DC and the wrong ohm setting as well

I blame new fangled digital multimeters and the fact I was never very proficient with the old analogue one I had.

I tested with setting at 200 ohms (next up said 2k and didn't register) and got the following readings from the 3 stator leads;
.5 .4 & .5

Did you know that the alternator out put can light up a household bulb? Put a bulb across any two of the 3 wires, nice light, probably nice AC voltage!
Be careful with shorting or touching

Yeah believe it or not despite all my electrical incompetence I actually new a house bulb could be used (but hadn't actually thought about it). I'm not all together sure that I wouldn't have stabbed myself with broken glass or electrocuted myself playing with makeshift wire splices etc so I had another go with the idiot on the end of the multimeter properly calibrated and got some readings from the stator leads. They are as follows;

G/W + W/B = 3.7 V
G/W + Y = 1.9 V
W/B + Y = 2.2 V

Even adding them all together it doesn't appear to add up to very much (what's it supposed to be?)

I made a start on the stator papers but suffered some confusion as I have three yellow wires (connected between the three stator wires then the reg/rec) and two red wires (though different wire types both confirmed as red by someone who ain't colour blind) and one Black/white wire. So the second to last test on page one of the stator papers had to be done with each red wire (both gave similar readings of - .26v to -.35v and -.13v respectfully. The next step before going to step B gave +.14v.

Step B (less than 4 different coloured wires) gave the following readings from the 3 stator leads;
.5 + .3 to .4 & .5

So it looks like I have one reading below .5 ohms.

I guess I have my answer now.

Thanks all for holding my hand through the process. You may feel free to wash the idiot off them now.

I shall set to and replace the spare stator..... (comes puffing back up stairs after checking ohms reading) which has ohms readings of .6 .6 & .6 and which will hopefully work.

Looks like I have no work tomorrow (again ) so it should happen tomorrow (if I can get SWMBO off my back about finding more work)

[posplayr]

Doh! Doh! Doh!




I went through all of the tests after having started the bike half a dozen times with the stator cables disconnected (while re-testing AC voltage) and it was all pretty good as follows

1. 12.8
2. 12.1 (I guess that tells a story about light switch connections?)
3. 12.4
4. 12.4
5. 12.4
6. 12.7

Yes I did re-connect the stator cables for all the good it did.

My battery is less than a year old and has only done a couple of thousand miles. I keep it on trickle charge when not riding it due to the lack of charging. Pretty sure its good to go.




Yup, I'm a goose. Had it set on DC and the wrong ohm setting as well

I blame new fangled digital multimeters and the fact I was never very proficient with the old analogue one I had.

I tested with setting at 200 ohms (next up said 2k and didn't register) and got the following readings from the 3 stator leads;
.5 .4 & .5




Yeah believe it or not despite all my electrical incompetence I actually new a house bulb could be used (but hadn't actually thought about it). I'm not all together sure that I wouldn't have stabbed myself with broken glass or electrocuted myself playing with makeshift wire splices etc so I had another go with the idiot on the end of the multimeter properly calibrated and got some readings from the stator leads. They are as follows;

G/W + W/B = 3.7 V
G/W + Y = 1.9 V
W/B + Y = 2.2 V

Even adding them all together it doesn't appear to add up to very much (what's it supposed to be?)

I made a start on the stator papers but suffered some confusion as I have three yellow wires (connected between the three stator wires then the reg/rec) and two red wires (though different wire types both confirmed as red by someone who ain't colour blind) and one Black/white wire. So the second to last test on page one of the stator papers had to be done with each red wire (both gave similar readings of - .26v to -.35v and -.13v respectfully. The next step before going to step B gave +.14v.

Step B (less than 4 different coloured wires) gave the following readings from the 3 stator leads;
.5 + .3 to .4 & .5

So it looks like I have one reading below .5 ohms.

I guess I have my answer now.

Thanks all for holding my hand through the process. You may feel free to wash the idiot off them now.

I shall set to and replace the spare stator..... (comes puffing back up stairs after checking ohms reading) which has ohms readings of .6 .6 & .6 and which will hopefully work.

Looks like I have no work tomorrow (again ) so it should happen tomorrow (if I can get SWMBO off my back about finding more work)

1. 12.8
2. 12.1 (I guess that tells a story about light switch connections?)
3. 12.4
4. 12.4
5. 12.4
6. 12.7

The two green voltages are saying the battery is good.

The three red voltages are saying you are charging some but not very much. I would guess startor at this point and do the stator tests to try and confirm.

At 5K RPM you should have over 65 VAC, (the bare minimum) if not swap it out.

[Colin Green]

1. 12.8
2. 12.1 (I guess that tells a story about light switch connections?)
3. 12.4
4. 12.4
5. 12.4
6. 12.7

The two green voltages are saying the battery is good.

The three red voltages are saying you are charging some but not very much. I would guess startor at this point and do the stator tests to try and confirm.

At 5K RPM you should have over 65 VAC, (the bare minimum) if not swap it out.

Cheers! 65V eh! I don't even make 8v all three combined. Small wonder the horn started playing up a year and a half ago (then all but totally giving up 9 months ago), before the headlight started giving out while riding longish rides a year ago... before my indicators also stopped working properly 6 months ago..

You would think they might have thought of installing a warning light or something eh!

[Matchless]

Cheers! 65V eh!

Well done! I bet you are relieved!

[KiwiGS]

Don't be too worried about the meter mate it happens to the pro's as well.
Actually happened to one of the sparkies at work today......
Who has the fault Baz, Gaz or the other one?

[Colin Green]

Don't be too worried about the meter mate it happens to the pro's as well.
Actually happened to one of the sparkies at work today......
Who has the fault Baz, Gaz or the other one?

Lol No worrys cuz. I don't have any problem with messing up occasionally, especially when it comes to the dark art of electrickery.

I tell you, it isn't what it appears to be. I believe that "electricity" is merely a vehicle that is used as a cover for plain old fashioned magic and that we are all being deceived by corporate witches and warlocks who are intent on addicting and enslaving us to their magic so they can literally milk us for money just like were South Island milking sheep.

Have you ever wondered why electricians can inexplicably become victims of electrocutions?? They are trained professionals who know what the rules are. Stuff like that just shouldn't be happening. I reckon that they occasionally stumble onto the truth and are zapped by the witches to keep them silent.

Guys like you who have been so badly duped that they not only weave the tangled web but actively study (and even preach ) the dark arts as gospel to help promote the illusion are the most at risk

[Colin Green]

Well done! I bet you are relieved!

Lol. Even more so when I install the spare... and it works