GS1100G Not Sparkin

[oohsam]

Hey guys,
So I've started my project bike. Before I get ahead of myself, let me make some things a little clear.

The bike has no key. So I cannot put the bike into "accessory on" mode.
There is no headlight, dials or indicators on the bike. Just wires...
I bought the bike in this condition, but have been told the motor used to run not too long ago and it was an abandoned project.
There are things wired up though, like the ignition coils and fuse box.. basically the main elements to get it running.

The only way to crank the bike is to short the ignition point, with a screwdriver and the engine cranks...I did this for the first time today and it cranks very strongly.
I have a brand new battery.

Upon doing some investigation I found that I have no spark.
I pulled out spark plug 1, grounded it on the cylinder head, and made sure there was sufficient ground with my multimeter.
Cranked the engine, and no spark on the plug.

Did this with the remaining plugs and there is no spark being generated.

I tested the coils with my multimeter, and I get a reading on both, so that would indicate to me no broken connections there. So I think the coils are ok.

I have been reading the workshop manual, and it's telling me to check the signal generator. This would be the little black box next to the fuses right?

I pulled this off and unplugged the 2 plugs going into it. It says to pull off the green and blue wires and connect an ohmemeter between the green and blue wires and i should get a reading of 290 - 300 ohms...So is that on the plug side? I tried this...im getting nothing.
The green and blue wires are part of a clip with 4 wires going into it...
I set my multimeter to 200k, and im getting nothing.

Then it says to test the ignitor unit...where is that? Is this the same unit?
Then it goes on to say put plugs 3 and 4 on the cylinder head, and disconnect the blue and green leads from the signal generator and turn the ignition to on. (i cant turn my ignition to on!)
Then to set the ohmemeter to R1 scale (this is 200k I think) and put positive on blue lead and negative on green lead, and the spark plug should fire...How is this different to the test I just did earlier..

So this bypasses the ignitor all together and is using the battery in the ohmmeter to generate a spark??
If I need the ignition to on to do this, i cant do it until i get a key made up....

I'm really out of my depth here, and am pretty sure that the no spark issue is the only thing left to get this engine fired...unless there is something else but this is the current problem I need to resolve first before moving on!
And I'm not even sure if I have my multimeter set properly...oh lord am I in a world of trouble!

I've gone through bikecliffs website about the electrical stuff...but I'm finding it hard to follow things without pictures as I dont know if I'm looking at the right thing or not.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.
I am more than happy to post pictures of anything if im not clear enough.
Cheers

[oohsam]

Note to self. Have been advised that I need to have the ignition on via the key, No power to ignition means no power to anything to generate spark.
Will get this rectified.
Apologies if you read this long winded blabber.

[Big T]

Once you get the ignition switch operable, turn it on and see if you have 12V at the ignitor and the coils.

Is your Aussie model cursed with the clutch safety switch?

[tom203]

Note to self. Have been advised that I need to have the ignition on via the key, No power to ignition means no power to anything to generate spark.
Will get this rectified.
Apologies if you read this long winded blabber.

Run a jumper wire from main fuse to ignition fuse and see it you get spark when cranking- don't forget to reconnect signal generator plugs.

[oohsam]

Will check that. Dropped off the ignition barrel this morning at the locksmiths. Says he needs a few hours to get 2 keys made up for it. Funny thing is, the angle of the key hole looks like its in ignition..but this couldn't be, as the key wouldn't have been able to be removed.
The fork lock was also locked down, so it must have been in the "off" position...

I'm not sure if i have a clutch safety switch. Im assuming this means i need to press the clutch in to start it. I thought it would have the same logic as current bikes

"If gearbox = Neutral
Engine Start,
if Gearbox not equal Neutral and clutch = pressed
Engine Start
Else Do Not Start"

Unless it always needs the clutch pressed in regardless of gear selection....Like the Hyundai excels..!

[Redman]

...
....
....I have been reading the workshop manual, and it's telling me to check the signal generator. This would be the little black box next to the fuses right?
...
....

Signal generator is behind cover on end of crank, kinda like what used to be breaker points.

Clutch switch is in series with the starter button (doesnt matter what gear nor netural or not), clutch has to be pulled in to make that swtich so the starter button can then energize the solenoid. If you look on schematic, it is called "disconnect switch".
Circuit is this:
Fused power to kill switch, to starter button (and to igintion), to clutch switch, to solenoid.
With No involment of gear position, no invovment of sidestand switch, those operate lights only.

.

[oohsam]

Ok i've hooked up the barrel. There is power at the points in the barrel, when I turn the key, there is power at another point. So its working there.
I dont actually have a clutch cable, but I can simulate this by pulling the clutch lever where it attaches to the actual clutch on the engine block. I assume this would simulate the clutch being pulled in.

The start button isn't responding. I am thinking that all the cables running to the control point are not connected to the right, the manual doesn't actually tell me what colour cable is for what, and I have a few unterminated cables here that I'm not sure are for what.

I might try jumping a cable from the fusebox....if I do this, should spark start right away, or does the engine need to crank.

Sorry for the noob questions....If i knew what colour cable was for what, i'd terminate all the cables properly and make sure its all wired up...but I can only go with matching colours, and some of the cables are faded so their colours are not 100% clear.

[oohsam]

Shes aliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiveeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Colin Green]

Well done. You are doing better than I would. I can't fathom electrickery problems. Out of 4 different wiring diagrams I have not one is right for my bike as the colours vary from all the shcematics I have seen and the fact that I'm partly colour blind pretty much leaves me dead in the water. I rely on replacing parts till the problem is solved (if affordable)

[oohsam]

Colin. I am more than happy to help and advise what I can and provide all sorts of images of anything you need.
Please let me know and I'll check my bike and let you know what cable goes where and is for what...
I can provide pictures too.

[Colin Green]

Colin. I am more than happy to help and advise what I can and provide all sorts of images of anything you need.
Please let me know and I'll check my bike and let you know what cable goes where and is for what...
I can provide pictures too.

Thank you for your kind offer (which I just now saw) however after my latest initial diagnosis of a carb problem causing a missfire on 'Gad', I stripped and cleaned the carbs (broke a diaphragm then replaced it. then stripped, cleaned and reassembled twice more before realising it must be the dreaded electrickery.

Soooooooooo I then tried new plugs (better for a couple of miles only) then replaced the HT leads.

The leads didn't help so I took Baz's coils off the Interloper (both GS1150 EF projects) and swapped a couple of the shorter leads with the old leads I'd taken off Gad earlier, then transplanted them into Gad. Voila! she's all smooth as silk again.

Tried using my multimeter to check the old coils and as usual I drew a blank. Mostly got nill readings on all the resistance settings (testing the prongs that go into the leads) and got a reading of .005 on one of the dozen settings between 2k and 2M on the connection contacts at the other end (can't remember which setting all far too complicated for me).

Anyway, proof is in the pudding as they say (replace bits till it works system) So old coils are for the bin and now I need to buy 2 sets for my EF projects

[oohsam]

Good work getting it fired up! I"m still going to rewire my bike with a new wiring loom. Im sure it will be the result of many hours of abuse and cursing.