Compufire 55402 install '78 GS1000E

[OldVet66]

I am very impressed with this Compufire charging system. I was initially hesitant to install the system, but once I jumped in, it was really quite easy. Thanks to Basscliff and his wonderful Site, I had a wiring diagram that I traced out before I started. Posplayr answered the other questions I had. With the notes I made, it was real easy. You can't miss the cable bundle going to the stator, you can trace it right down there. The '78 has 5 wires in this bundle. Three actually, but two are doubled, because they split off to go to the separate rectifier and regulator units. When the old units are removed, one of the white/blue, and yellow connectors are abandoned. I folded the shortest of each wire back into the bundle and re-wrapped the bundle with 3M 88 Electrical tape. It is expensive, but is not affected by cold or heat and will not unravel like the cheap temporary electric tapes. That left a green/white, white/blue and yellow wire to connect to the Compufire #14AWG wire. I cut the attached plug off of these wires, but retained the A, B, C position of the wires from the Compufire with a clockwise rotation of the Stator poles starting with green/white=A, white/blue=B and yellow=C. The #10AWG positive wire, went to the original red feed from the old system, and the #10AWG ground went to the battery negative. I believe that I had used a #6AWG wire from negative to the motor ground so they are all electrically the same point. I used stainless steel Allan bolts, washers, star washers, and nuts with nylon inserts as fasteners with star washers next to both sides of all painted surfaces for good grounding, except for the Compufire unit that is case grounded through the #10AWG ground wire. The ground wire for the starter was displaced, so it got it's own fastener. I'll post up some links to pictures, the last being my nifty plastic wire and battery shield and my second tool kit. I also plugged the green/white wire and white/red wire together that were abandoned. they loop the green/white Stator wire through the handlebar switch to disable that Stator wire when the light is turned off. This system rocks. The motor runs very cool. I can put my bare hand on the Stator case after a long ride without getting burned, but that is likely to change this summer. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YSzXOUYc5ZlQyfs31t11oSeFtZ98t6czQsF9KRSUYEg?feat=d irectlink

[OldVet66]

The last link gave me fits, but here it is. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

[posplayr]

. The motor runs very cool. I can put my bare hand on the Stator case after a long ride without getting burned, but that is likely to change this summer.

Do you have an oil temp gauge to compare before after temps. IIRC, mine dropped from about 240 down to about 200 degF

[OldVet66]

I don't have a temperature gauge, but I can tell the temp. drop is significant. The down side is that I have to let the bike warm up a lot longer on these cold mornings, even though it fires up immediately. The up side is that I have micro-wire electric glove liners and insoles on the way at a total draw of about 60 watts. Do you know of a source for a temperature gauge that would work on my bike?

[posplayr]

I don't have a temperature gauge, but I can tell the temp. drop is significant. The down side is that I have to let the bike warm up a lot longer on these cold mornings, even though it fires up immediately. The up side is that I have micro-wire electric glove liners and insoles on the way at a total draw of about 60 watts. Do you know of a source for a temperature gauge that would work on my bike?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CCFGGE/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000CCBNB6&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1VHP2DDGXCQ6RWXHE92P

This is a good guage. You need to buy the corresponding senor which uses a 1/4" NTP fitting. You have to figure a place to screw it in. I think Reno Bruce sells a kit, but it screws into the sump drain plug. Not sure how he keeps it from getting damaged.

On 1100E's you can mount it in the rear oil port under the carbs. The aluminum adapter is easily drilled and tapped to fit the sensor thread.

[Nessism]

Received my kit today. It came with a sealed three prong connector already attached to the stator feed wires, and the matching connector, but no metal terminals that need to go inside matching connector. Did they just forget them or am I supposed to just know that kind of pins go inside?

[posplayr]

Received my kit today. It came with a sealed three prong connector already attached to the stator feed wires, and the matching connector, but no metal terminals that need to go inside matching connector. Did they just forget them or am I supposed to just know that kind of pins go inside?

I dont know why they dont include them. You ca nget them at Mavac or some other automotive stores.

[Nessism]

I dont know why they dont include them. You ca nget them at Mavac or some other automotive stores.

So your kit was same Jim?

[posplayr]

So your kit was same Jim?

you are the 4th I know of, no pins

[OldVet66]

They are Delphi Weatherpack pins. I removed my plug and will be replacing them with the individual weatherproof connectors from Furakawa. I have the connectors and just got the Delphi Weatherpack crimping tool in the mail today from Performance Plus Connection. It has five crimp dies from 24 to 14 gauge $32.95 for the tool. The connectors are here: http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...FKWH/fkwh.html and he has some PED connectors here: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...ripack280.html

[Richsuz]

So your kit was same Jim?

Mine was, and I could not find the pins in Guatemala, so I had to eliminate the nice connector, replacing it with individual spades.

It is so nice to monitor myvolt meter and see almost 13v at idle and 14 volts everywhere else. Since I had no means of monitoring temp before I could not attest to any variances.

[metalman]

Thanks for posting install, pictures and url's. Have 78 GS1000 also and looking forward to doing the same hopefully this summer as bike is under construction at this time with numerous fixes taking place. This is going to be very helpful. Great post thanks.

[OldVet66]

You are very welcome.

[Nessism]

Got the unit installed tonight and it's working well. Cut off the fancy connectors and used crimp on terminals. Between the Compufire and a new Motobatt battery my electrical system is working well.

Do you have an oil temp gauge to compare before after temps. IIRC, mine dropped from about 240 down to about 200 degF

My bike has an oil temp gauge and I can't notice any change in the temp compared to the regular R/R. In order for the R/R to reduce the oil temp like Jim references I think the stator temp would have to run well above 240F! Does anyone know how hot one of these GS stators will run?

[OldVet66]

Slight update, I just got around to installing the wheather tight connectors on the Compufire. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink