Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

OK both coils are good and cyl# 2-3 arent firing

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    OK both coils are good and cyl# 2-3 arent firing

    You may remember my problem from such great threads as "test-coils" say it three times fast.



    I have 23k ohms across the secondary and 3-4 ohms on both primary. Seems they would actually fire a bit hot when they work. The # 2-3 cylinders are not firing. My next avenue I think is going to be replacing the battery. I have read that this can be an issue when weak and this one is less than 100%. So I'll put in the battery and make sure I'm getting full 12.6 to the coil. Really hope that works .

    If that doesnt work I'll update and try to figure out how to test my 2-3 cylinder coil for signal if it has plently of power.

    If no signal is the problem I guess the next step is the RR area?

    Thanks brothers

    #2
    Oh and 77 gs750 again for reference and those that didnt want to go to the old thread.

    Comment


      #3
      Can you swap the coils over? Change the inputs to the coils and change the leads to the sparkplugs. If 1-4 stops firing, it's the coil. If 2-3 still isn't firing, it's the signal.

      Comment


        #4
        Swap the coils. If the problem moves with the coils than replace the coil. If not check the points.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          Guess I would swap the coils leads and the signal wire. Will give it a try.
          So the ohm test isn't definite for the coils? I shouldn't suspect my 7 volt reading battery first?

          Comment


            #6
            Suspecting your 7 volt battery is a good first step.

            Check your coils with a good 12 volt battery.

            If they still don't work as they should, remove the coils, remove the wires from the coils, swap the wires from coil to coil, then try again.
            If the problem moved with the coil, your coil is your problem. If the problem is still with 2&3, look for something else.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Steve View Post
              Suspecting your 7 volt battery is a good first step.

              Check your coils with a good 12 volt battery.

              If they still don't work as they should, remove the coils, remove the wires from the coils, swap the wires from coil to coil, then try again.
              If the problem moved with the coil, your coil is your problem. If the problem is still with 2&3, look for something else.

              .
              Agree 100%

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Steve View Post
                Suspecting your 7 volt battery is a good first step.

                Check your coils with a good 12 volt battery.

                If they still don't work as they should, remove the coils, remove the wires from the coils, swap the wires from coil to coil, then try again.
                If the problem moved with the coil, your coil is your problem. If the problem is still with 2&3, look for something else.

                .
                Sound advice
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I kinda hoped the ohm test was pretty definitely going to tell me.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    So is 23K ohms for the secondary good enough. I have the same resistance on mine instead of 30-35K ohms.
                    1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
                    1983 GS 1100 G
                    2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
                    2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
                    1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)

                    I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      This sound very similar to the fault i have just fixed on my 79 750. After hunting around and making it a lot more complicated than i needed to. I discovered that one of the contact breaker wires had snaped most of the strands inside its plastic. use a test lamp to check the continuity of the wires rather than a meter.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X