rr question

[Guest]

I am testing a suspected faulty rr on my bench using the stator paper flow chart.
Testing between the yellow and red/black both ways with diode setting.
It passes two of the tests.
When I go red on positive and black on the three yellow wires it fails and when I go black on negative and red on yellow it fails. Fails as in showing OL on these tests. Am I doing this right? Is it shorted or open inside?

[Steve]

When I go red on positive and black on the three yellow wires it fails and when I go black on negative and red on yellow it fails. Fails as in showing OL on these tests. Am I doing this right? Is it shorted or open inside?

The OL is not a fail.

What you have described is six of the twelve checks necessary.
You also need to connect the RED lead to the negative and the BLACK on the three yellow wires, then connect the BLACK to the positive and RED to the three yellow wires.

What you are looking for when you do that will depend on whether you are using an OHMS setting or a DIODE TEST setting.

The OHMS setting will show the OL in one direction and a number in the other direction. The number varies from meter to meter, but should be about the same for all your readings.
The DIODE TEST setting will also show OL in one direction, but will show something between .550 and .700 in the other direction. That is the actual forward voltage of the diode.
Either way, you are looking for a reading in one direction and an OL in the other.

.

[gearhead13]

I did all 12 tests, 6 of the tests show OL in diode mode when I go red on positive and black on the three yellow wires it fails and when I go black on negative and red on yellow (chart says over 1.5v in this test), the other six show what the chart says they should.

[Steve]

I'll say it once more, then back out quietly.

The OL is not necessarily a fail. It is supposed to show OL in six of the tests.

Are you using an OHM scale or a DIODE TEST scale?

THAT is where your "fail" might lie. You might be looking for the results of a test you have not really made.

.

[gearhead13]

I said in my post I was using the diode test mode.
I am just going by what the stator test chart paper says and that is I should see 1.5v or higher on the tests that I get OL on.
I understand that a diode only flows current one way, that is why it is confusing that the 4 tests of 3 (12 total) none of them are supposed to show OL or no connectivity.

[tom203]

I said in my post I was using the diode test mode.
I am just going by what the stator test chart paper says and that is I should see 1.5v or higher on the tests that I get OL on.
I understand that a diode only flows current one way, that is why it is confusing that the 4 tests of 3 (12 total) none of them are supposed to show OL or no connectivity.

The simple way to understand this is to go electronics store (Radio shack) and buy a diode for one buck. Then test this diode with your meter in diode mode and see how it works. Then test the R/R as Steve described.

[Billy Ricks]

There is another test out of the Suzuki service manual where you test resistance. I have it on another computer. If you want I'll post it up later.

[Billy Ricks]

You can check your regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.

[gearhead13]

You can check your regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.

That might have helped, but this is a non-stock R&R of some kind, it is a trapezoid shape with really no legible markings on it.
I checked it on ohm setting and got OL on all 12 tests, on diode test, 6 of the 12 show OL. It must be toast because the stator tests out good, I already ordered a new one from duaneage. I was just wanting to double check that this one was bad.

[gearhead13]

The OL is not a fail.

What you have described is six of the twelve checks necessary.
You also need to connect the RED lead to the negative and the BLACK on the three yellow wires, then connect the BLACK to the positive and RED to the three yellow wires.

What you are looking for when you do that will depend on whether you are using an OHMS setting or a DIODE TEST setting.

The OHMS setting will show the OL in one direction and a number in the other direction. The number varies from meter to meter, but should be about the same for all your readings.
The DIODE TEST setting will also show OL in one direction, but will show something between .550 and .700 in the other direction. That is the actual forward voltage of the diode.
Either way, you are looking for a reading in one direction and an OL in the other.

.

Why are the stator fault tests different from what I am being told here? Is the stator fault chart outdated/wrong?

[posplayr]

Why are the stator fault tests different from what I am being told here? Is the stator fault chart outdated/wrong?

Some parts are not the best, or assume a specific R/R. For a shunt old style regulator (OEM or Honda non FET or SERIES) the tests to insure all the rectifying diodes should work.That is forward/back ward tests between stator legs and (+) and forward/backward drop tests between stators and (-).

Another thing is the stator tests are not conclusive either. They can only confirm a failed test. All passed tests are not confirmed.You have to do loaded tests and use a clamp on current probe for that.

I've suggested changes to the Administrator but the stator pages are Electro-sport proprietary so they are not changed unless they decide to.

[gearhead13]

Some parts are not the best, or assume a specific R/R. For a shunt old style regulator (OEM or Honda non FET or SERIES) the tests to insure all the rectifying diodes should work.That is forward/back ward tests between stator legs and (+) and forward/backward drop tests between stators and (-).

Another thing is the stator tests are not conclusive either. They can only confirm a failed test. All passed tests are not confirmed.You have to do loaded tests and use a clamp on current probe for that.

I've suggested changes to the Administrator but the stator pages are Electro-sport proprietary so they are not changed unless they decide to.

Ahh, ok thanks for clearing that up for me.