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    #1

    Lets play "What was the PO thinking?"

    Good evening everyone. Please forgive my newbishness.

    I read through the stator papers this afternoon. Unfortunately, my issue doesn't really fall into that category, but kinda does. I don't know. Maybe it doesn't. Someone hit me please.

    A couple months ago, I picked up a GS1100G in fairly good running order. The PO mentioned, among all the other things he did (or actually didn't do), that he had upgraded the electrical system as per thegsresources.com. Admittedly I was smitten with the bike and everything worked, so I didn't think too much about it. I would have never gotten my Honda back on the road if it weren't for a similar forum, so I figured he had probably done things right.

    Well, in an unrelated issue, I recently started having a hard time cold starting my GS. This afternoon I was able to diagnose that problem as a choke cable issue. However, I had to do a lot of cranking in order to get there. After I got the bike running, I noticed some smoke coming up from under the seat. When I pulled the seat and the left side cover (where the smoke was coming from) I found that there was a red wire that had almost completely melted through. Previously, I was having no charging issues what so ever. I'm not sure about now though. :P

    Obviously I killed power to the bike and took a step back. Here is a picture of what I was looking at.





    It appears that the white plug should be flipped the other way and set in that retainer next to the red and black plugs. As far as I can tell, the PO simply replaced a section of wiring and didn't really do anything else.

    Is it possible that my incessant cranking trying to diagnose the starting issue is what caused that wire to heat up and it should be fine if I replace it?

    Can anyone tell what this guy did, or was trying to do?

    Is there something better that I should do here ?

    Thanks, and again, please forgive my inexperience.
    Tags: None
    #2
    looks like a plug has been cut off and a bunch of spade connectors installed plus some extra wires and and I wouldn't have a clue. I'm absolutely useless when it comes to electrickery but I can go downstairs and take my side cover off and take a picture but I'm not so sure that will help as our NZ bikes have been wired differently to yours.


    Back shortly....

    [Edit]

    Ok first one

    Nothing like yours eh! Looks like your RR and II are missing or relocated and retrofitted connector blocks. Good luck

    .
    Last edited by Guest; 01-27-2011, 06:01 AM.

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      #3
      and the other side fwiw
      Last edited by Guest; 01-27-2011, 06:01 AM.

      Comment

        #4
        It looks like you have quite a few connections to rewire with proper connectors. This is a reliable source for things you might need: http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...FKWH/fkwh.html The down side is getting the proper crimping tool, but it is worth it for a good connection, It's my understanding these connections are preferred over soldering. If everything was working before the meltdown, it's likely the wiring paths are correct. Don't try working with wires that are too short, they can always be lengthened. If solder and heat shrink is used, a good solder joint is perfectly bright like it is when it flows. A dull or cold solder joint is as bad as those nasty connections.
        Last edited by OldVet66; 01-27-2011, 08:59 AM.
        http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

        Comment

          #5
          Well, it appears from the picture that the PO might have been trying to follow some rewiring suggestions that are common here on GSR, but wasn't doing such a good job.

          It looks like there was an attempt to rewire the stator-to-R/R (Rectifier/Regulator) connection to bypass the loop up to the left handlebar switch. Done properly, it's highly-recommended. The three wires from the stator should connect directly to the three input wires to the R/R. Follow the wires on both sides of that melted connector to see if that is what is involved here. If so, you can eliminate the connector entirely, just use good crimp connectors or solder the wires together.

          The red wire that was involved is probably the output from the R/R that powers the bike and recharges the battery when the engine is running.

          .
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          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by Steve View Post
            Well, it appears from the picture that the PO might have been trying to follow some rewiring suggestions that are common here on GSR, but wasn't doing such a good job.

            It looks like there was an attempt to rewire the stator-to-R/R (Rectifier/Regulator) connection to bypass the loop up to the left handlebar switch. Done properly, it's highly-recommended. The three wires from the stator should connect directly to the three input wires to the R/R. Follow the wires on both sides of that melted connector to see if that is what is involved here. If so, you can eliminate the connector entirely, just use good crimp connectors or solder the wires together.

            The red wire that was involved is probably the output from the R/R that powers the bike and recharges the battery when the engine is running.

            .
            Thanks for the pictures, Colin, but for the moment I'm just going to hope that it's not supposed to look like that. Ignorance can be bliss.

            I'm hoping it's more along the lines of Steve's suggestion. I'm going to check it out when I go home for lunch. I know the stator is behind the left engine cover, but I'm not sure off-hand where the wires come out. I hate electrical.

            I had to rewire my 360, but it's a lot more simple.

            Comment

              #7
              The wires will go from the stator into the starter compartment and out the starter cover to the RR.
              Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

              1981 GS550T - My First
              1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
              2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

              Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
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              and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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                #8
                Originally posted by cowboyup3371 View Post
                The wires will go from the stator into the starter compartment and out the starter cover to the RR.
                Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.

                One of my buddies gave me a good quote about this that really sums it up.

                "Our hobby is not riding or working on old bikes, it's buying other people's problems."

                And yet I love it.

                Comment

                  #9
                  "Our hobby is not riding or working on old bikes, it's buying other people's problems."
                  That needs to be engraved somewhere!
                  Just found your thread, will be interested and try not to hijack it.... but now I need to dig on this electrical mod you speak of.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Haha, I was just thinking of starting a "Screw you, PO" thread. Just to air grievances not look for any help

                    Here's my favorite... glad he got rid of the points, but the bullett connector?!



                    Edit, figured I would contribute more constructively to the thread too:

                    Great how-to on upgrading charging system:
                    Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade
                    http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html


                    Personally I haven't bothered with the mosfet. Just direct wired stock r/r on my triumph and direct wired ebay R/R's on my '78 and '79 GS's. All with the normal size inline blade fuses on the hot lead(see page 2 of that reference for why not to use the mini blade).

                    Last edited by Guest; 02-05-2011, 02:12 PM.

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