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    #16
    I did get my ignitor off, after all. Remembered I had a right-angle screwdriver set I got for Christmas and hadn't opened yet

    If you want to try it, PM me with your mailing address. If it apparently corrects your issues, don't ride on it. It worked fine, until it didn't (usually ~1/2 hour riding). You won't want to use it permanently but buy a Dyna S and fix the problem (we hope) for good. New ignitors are very expensive (~$400) if they're even available and old ones are dicey at best, like mine.

    I hear ya. My first surprise was finding out that my crank was twisted That was two years ago and she's just now approaching reliable running.

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      #17
      So thanks to Mike I was able to plug in a "sort of working" igniter to see if mine was causing the weak spark in the left coil. Sure enough with his on there it has healthy spark all around. Now I just have to wait for my DS3-2 to arrive and install it!

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        #18
        Hello!

        Please update the thread with your success (or lack of) installing the DS3. I don't know how I missed this thread....your symptoms were almost identical to mine.

        I have a DS3-2 on the way. I'd love to hear if it was a simple bolt-on solution for you.

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          #19
          I think Bobiii84 gave up and put his bike up for sale. The Dyna did help, but he was also having carb issues and ran out of patience/time.

          Not sure about "bolt on" but it's close. The included rotor is too short for factory EI systems so they include a spacer, but invariably it seems too thick and the rotor can't advance when the crank bolt is tightened down. Solution is to get a thinner washer as a spacer (14mm dia I think), sand down the rotor top a bit, or sand down the spacer. IIRC the extra height is about 0.6-0.8mm. You'll need to time it: having an inductive timing light is handy. There are only three wires: red +12V which you can pull from your coils or any other ignition-switched +12V source, white and black grounds for the coils. The Dyna S always seems to be very close to the end of its slots when timed correctly, see my pic below.



          Originally posted by jasper View Post
          Hello!

          Please update the thread with your success (or lack of) installing the DS3. I don't know how I missed this thread....your symptoms were almost identical to mine.

          I have a DS3-2 on the way. I'd love to hear if it was a simple bolt-on solution for you.

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            #20
            Thank you for your help and advice Mike. It is very much appreciated.

            I have the technology to shave down the supplied spacer good to know this before I start.

            Questions (of course):

            1) My igniter has seven wires coming out out in total.

            a) O/W for the coils (will hook up to red from Dyna)
            b) Black/yellow for 2-3 coil (will hook up to black from Dyna)
            c) White for 1-4 coil ( will hook up to white from Dyna)
            d) Black ground wire (where does the Dyna ground to??)

            I guess the other three wires were where the signal coils were connected to the igniter and these are made redundant by the Dyna..

            2) Is the coil relay mod made redundant by this upgrade also or is there still some benefit to be derived from bypassing the ignition and kill switches? I note that my voltage drop across the switches was only about 0.5 V

            3) Does the supplied rotor not somehow interfere with the magnets on the drive shaft?

            I'm looking forward to hooking this all up. I still have to check my stator and do a carb synch and maybe check the valves again....but until I have a good spark I'm not moving ahead and I've convinced myself this igniter is largely to blame.

            Thanks again Mike.

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              #21
              The Dyna grounds to the motor chassis. You will remove your ignitor when the Dyna is installed because you don't need it any longer. And yes, the other three wires are the wires for your signal generator. Technically the O/W is not from the ignitor to the coils. The ignitor needs +12V to work as well and that's its feed. The Dyna replaces the sig gen and basically has the ignitor built right in to it.

              The coil relay mod is still valid with Dyna. My coil relay output feeds both coils and the Dyna. With only a 0.5V drop from battery to coils you're not going to notice much difference though.

              Not sure about the drive shaft magnet question? There's no interference that I could think of.

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