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    #16
    Originally posted by bluewool View Post
    Conductive grease is for use on parts that move. Sliding switches. etc. The way you speak of using it will likely cause more harm than good.
    Molybdenum (conductive) based grease is great for sparkplugs then watching you buddy try to start his bike.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Graham View Post
      Molybdenum (conductive) based grease is great for sparkplugs then watching you buddy try to start his bike.
      Exactly. On most connectors, it will flow out slightly. If it reaches a ground (your buddy's hand on a plug wire would be a good example) interesting things would happen.

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        #18
        In case you still don't understand clearly, conductive grease would be a VERY BAD idea.

        The problem with GS electrical connections is not the integrity of the contact -- it's simply corrosion. Corrosion is accelerated by air, moisture, and dirt.

        A decent NON-conductive (dielectric) grease helps seal out air, water, and dirt.

        The contacts inside the connectors easily push the grease aside as they slide into contact -- the dielectric grease does not significantly affect the efficiency of the connection between the two pieces of metal (at least not at the low voltages and currents we're working with). The grease is simply there to keep out water, air, and dirt over time so that the connection doesn't corrode.

        There are secondary benefits as well -- the plastic and rubber parts in the connectors don't stick together and it helps lubricate any seals.
        1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
        2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
        2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
        Eat more venison.

        Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

        Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

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        Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

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          #19
          i second bw's post above. i've been using dielectric grease on all my connectors after cleaning them and have had no problems. they also come apart more easily.
          2002 bmw r1150gs 1978 gs1000E skunk les pew 1979 gs1000L dragbike
          82 gs1100L probably the next project
          1980 gs1000G the ugly 1978 gs750E need any parts?
          https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m_m2oYJkx1A
          1978 gs1000E skunk #2 RLAP

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            #20
            Yes, please stay away from any conductive grease on a bike! Never put it in switches! You will soon have power leaking to the other contacts in the switch as well.

            I prefer using a waterproof grease inside switches and red rubber grease on any rubber parts where they contact metal.

            Dielectric grease is non conductive and the purpose of dielectric grease is to prevent corrosion and ingress of water after you have cleaned the contacts/terminals or have fitted new ones. It does not really matter if the whole terminal is smeared with it before plugging it in. The metal to metal contact will still be good. Theoretically it does not seem a good idea, but in practice it is!

            Dielectric grease does not improve or fix bad connections due to corrosion or weak contact in terminals!

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              #21
              Don't use this stuff in switches or fuse boxes, but for a single line connection it works well. It is conductive. http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/Pro...?SKU=998017421

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                #22
                Originally posted by Testarossa View Post
                Don't use this stuff in switches or fuse boxes, but for a single line connection it works well. It is conductive. http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/Pro...?SKU=998017421
                I have that stuff too(and half a dozen similar products) it has a slightly lower dielectric strength and is specifically designed for Al/cu or al/al connections, there's no benefit using it on cu/cu (or plated for that matter) you could use it if you have it, but dielectric grease is the way to go.
                Last edited by Guest; 03-09-2011, 03:22 PM. Reason: terrible, terrible spelling.

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                  #23
                  Ilsco deox is non conductive, I don't know about the gray deox that is so messy to work with, but it's purpose is to prevent oxidation in aluminum wiring connections not to conduct electricity. It all works much the same as dialectic grease. Any insulator squeezed thin enough will allow conduction.
                  '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Matchless View Post
                    Yes, please stay away from any conductive grease on a bike! Never put it in switches! You will soon have power leaking to the other contacts in the switch as well.

                    I prefer using a waterproof grease inside switches and red rubber grease on any rubber parts where they contact metal.

                    Dielectric grease is non conductive and the purpose of dielectric grease is to prevent corrosion and ingress of water after you have cleaned the contacts/terminals or have fitted new ones. It does not really matter if the whole terminal is smeared with it before plugging it in. The metal to metal contact will still be good. Theoretically it does not seem a good idea, but in practice it is!

                    Dielectric grease does not improve or fix bad connections due to corrosion or weak contact in terminals!


                    I've heard stories of this magical red rubber grease. What exactly is it called and how would I go about obtaining such?

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
                      Ilsco deox is non conductive, I don't know about the gray deox that is so messy to work with, but it's purpose is to prevent oxidation in aluminum wiring connections not to conduct electricity. It all works much the same as dialectic grease. Any insulator squeezed thin enough will allow conduction.

                      I hope I wasn't the reason for this post, I was not meaning to imply that it was a conductor just that the dielectric strength was actually lower than dielectric grease. It is still an insulator. I just wouldn't go search it out for use on a motorcycle, dielectric grease is cheaper and more readily available. I have used the GB, Ilsco, and Noal-ox on bikes, cars, boats.. and actually for its intended purpose also.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by lordcannon88 View Post
                        I've heard stories of this magical red rubber grease. What exactly is it called and how would I go about obtaining such?
                        Have a look here, not sure what its called in the USA:





                        CASTROL GIRLING RED RUBBER GREASE BRAKE GREASE BEST | Vehicle Parts & Accessories, Garage Equipment & Tools, Hand Tools | eBay!


                        www.fleetline.co.za/Downloads/Red_Rubber_Grease.pdf

                        Its good stuff to have available.

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                          #27
                          Thanks for everybody's input. I am still a little confused. I know and understand that it should not be liberty applied on connectors because of voltage leakage, especially high voltage. etc..However,if conductive grease is applied sparingly in a thin layer to a low voltage connector (butt,ground etc) would it not improve the conductivity and performance of the connector or connection.One would think since it is conductive it would. If not, why?
                          Thanks for everybody's indulgence.
                          Geo

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                            #28
                            Just put some dielectirc grease on them to stop corrosion build up.If the wires are good going into the male and female ends the the meer fact that they are connected will conduct the electrical path as normal..all this is really frivalous and only serves to add to the complicating of a simple situation. Clean all the connections, thin grease and plug them in..walk away..simple.
                            Last edited by chuck hahn; 03-10-2011, 07:41 PM.
                            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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                              #29
                              There is no logical reason to use conductive grease. The power that goes through any connector (call it voltage, call it current, whatever) is so low that the possible benefit is far outweighed by the danger of causing a short if it leaked out of the connector and touched a ground anywhere. The enemies to our connectors are moisture and corrosion. Dielectric grease guards against both without any danger of shorting anything out.
                              For example, I am installing two terminal strips on my bike. They have covers, but are not waterproof. I filled them with dielectric grease to prevent against moisture and corrosion, without any danger of the connectors shorting out against each other.
                              Let me repeat: The power through any conductor is so low any possible improvement is far outweighed by the danger you have just introduced.
                              I really wish you the best, but several knowledgeable members have repeated the same thing over and over. You are far better off by filling the connector with dielectric grease than putting a thin layer of conductive grease.
                              For example: The item on our bikes that draws the most current is the coil(s), about 4 Amps at best. Let's say you gain 5% by using the dangerous conductive grease (most likely way too high an estimate). You have just increased the amount of current to 4.2 Amps. Is it worth the risk to you? Not to me, I value my bike, my wiring harness and my life far to much to make such a mistake.
                              Best of luck.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Hell regular axle grease has been used since there have been cars!! Great grandpa, Grandpa, and Dad all did it and nothing ever corroded or failed to operate properly..GHEEZ!!!
                                MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                                1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                                NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                                I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                                Comment

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