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a bit confused on my 78 gs1000 R/R

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    #31
    Went with a Ricks 21-303, but didn't pay $140 for it came to slightly less including shipping from the motorcycle warehouse.

    the 21-303 is what http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/ recommended for my year and model.

    plus, it came with a new rubber grommet for the wires whereas the Electrosport ones i would have to reuse the old one in there. Not to mention theres a 20% voltage increase in that unit, and i worry about the ancient electronics already on the bike.

    I should have went down to the place and picked it up in person, but i was able to find it cheaper online, and that way i wont have to spend the $50 in gas it would take to get out to Hampstead... plus i'm really in no rush considering i'm still waiting on the r/r from Mr. Duaneage.

    I went with Ricks only because of the number of awesome reviews that i have read in this forum. Not to mention supporting a local business

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      #32
      Ok. I got the new stator in, and i have the new regulator in, my question is the green/W wire and the white/red wire go back into the harness. Before I put the battery back in, and try to start the thing up, do i tie these off to eachother or do i leave them alone and tie them back into the harness?

      Thanks!

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        #33
        You can plug them together, tie them back or use the switch loop to redirect one of your stator leads through the light switch to cut it off if you turn the headlight off, as it was originally designed. I don't imagine the new R/R would need to have a phase switched, but it wouldn't hurt either. Eventually, I am going to wire my headlight to be on all the time, and use the switch and those wires for driving lights.
        '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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          #34
          Yeah the new R/R unit is much different then the old one. Hooked up the Red(+) wire to where the red wire from the original rectifier was, the ground (-) to a common frame ground, and the black wire (signal) to the Orange/Green wire that goes to the headlights/ turn signals after the connector in the harness.

          According to the wiring diagram for the 1980 GS1000, It seems that the green/white and the White/red only go to the switch, and hook up to nothing?

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            #35
            I guess I wasn't clear enough. Originally you had five wires (actually only three). The two yellow and two white/blue wires from the stator were twinned in order to split to the separate rectifier and regulator. the white/green wire went up to the light switch, I believe on the white/red, and came back as white/green. This cut off that leg of the stator if you switched off the light because the system would overcharge without the headlight pulling a load. You can check the white/red and white/green with a multimeter on your Ohms setting or Continuity position depending on the meter. The stator wires for your replacement stator are all yellow, so the old color code is a moot point from that direction. I plugged my remaining white/red and white/green together just to get them out of the way, or they can be left unplugged, they just go to one contact point on the switch and are not connected to anything else in the switch. A few years later, headlights were required to be on all the time, so that system was no longer used.
            Last edited by OldVet66; 04-19-2011, 12:10 PM.
            '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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              #36
              Ok, so i just placed them back into the harness, hooked up the battery, checked it with the multi meter, and got ~14v at the battery at about 2000 RPM Looks like she's gonna be allset!! Thank you very much!

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