Running an engine at idle speed for 25 minutes is like boiling water: easy. The cams will not be hurt because of 25 minutes of idling. Just don?t forget the fan or your engine will overheat. How is this not convenient? Turn the fan on and let it idle as you drink your coffee.
So where are the dummy load numbers?
Resister ohm ____?
Resister wattage ___?
Load current for heating amps___ @ RPM ___?
Voltage under load ___ @ RPM ___?
Time ___ under load to heat stator?
Maximum safe load amps ___?
Benchmark?
If the calculations are so easy then post them. Not just a formula but actual complete calculations with the answers. Like you said simple. How about some old fashion math? Not everyone here has a collage degree so help us dummy loads out.
What do we have if the numbers match or don?t match the calculations?
Confirmed good stator?
Confirmed bad stator?
Unknown stator condition?
I didn?t think you would answer the last question in my last post.
If you don?t wish to answer the questions in this post then don?t.
Your questions are insulting; Is that your intent?
Sigh ...
No posplayer, those are not insulting questions, they are not just reasonable questions, the answers to them are required if you ever want to get this entire retarded test of yours off the ground.
What is insulting is insinuating that there is anything wrong with the questions and refusing to provide answers
Earlier salty_monk asked why I called you incompetent. You seem to think that I have a personal dislike for you.
Its not that, but I do have a bad case of SIWOTI syndrome. If I see nonsense posted it bugs me. And its hard to not correct it.
My problem with you is not that you're wrong, but you stubbornly insist you're not, even when you have no justification or argument to support yourself.
Even when multiple people that actually have experience or know what they are talking about tell you you are wrong, you just dig in and bray harder.
I've seen it time after time, in thread after thread. And before you cry about me being rude and calling you names, check this thread to see who was rudest: my first post was not rude; I pulled no punches telling you you were wrong, but there was no namecalling. Your reply was nothing but namecalling.
As far as calling you incompetent, in this thread, aside from the fact that you started the namecalling, you have shown muliple times that you really are not competent to discuss this.
You are way out of your depth here:
You didn't understand why your original test would not work with an OEM R/R ... you didn't (and still don't) understand why a loaded test is no better (and most likely worse) than the AC tests as written ... heck the entire premise of this thread (that unloaded tests are bad) is incorrect ... and your power calculation on a load resistor: not just incompetent and off by a factor of 10, but dangerously so.
THIS ENTIRE THREAD IS A TESTAMENT TO THE FACT THAT YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOUR TALKING ABOUT.
For some reason you got a bug up your butt that loaded tests are superior to unloaded tests. That statement is SOMETIMES true, but sometimes not. Its context dependent.
You are apparently not competent to judge the context in which it is true, and when its not. This is a case of NOT.
If you disagree, instead of just bleating "unloaded bad, loaded good", provide an actual reason why. In my very first post in this thread I asked you if you actually had some justification for insisting on a loaded test. Because I'm pretty sure you don't. Its just something you came up with, but don't really have any justification for.
Where are the manufacturers loaded tests, where on another forum is there someone else actually advocating something similar, where have you even taken data and proved that your suggested test provides data thats even EQUAL to the unloaded tests (nevermind superior, which is what you claim)
Justify the extravagant claims you are making for loaded tests or just admit that you were wrong.
Until you can prove there is a point to this, as far as I am concerned, all you are doing is causing actual harm ... you are CONFUSING GS troubleshooters with an extraeneous IRRELEVANT test, calling the actual correct useful test "bad" (in the title no less), potentially causing them to waste money on needless tools (current clamps) and test loads (and good luck finding an ADEQUATE dummy load for $20 on ebay), and giving harmful potentially DANGEROUS advice.
... yeah, thats the very definition of competent and helpful ...
For a lot of the simpler issues you can give useful advice. But when you're in over your head you don't know it ... and you are in too deep here. The first rule of holes ... when you're in over your head, stop digging deeper.
If any one actually WANTs to follow the pied piper to stupidville, be my guest; but when he's leading you over the cliff I just might speak out against it. And given his history of stubborn incompetence I won't take any effort to sugar coat it.
SHEESH !
