Blinker speed depends on rpm?

[Guest]

The problem: Turn signal flashing speed goes up and down with the bike’s RPMs. They will speed up until they are going so fast that they stay solid. But once my RPMs get closer to idle speed the blinkers seem to work correctly.

I have an after marked flasher from Pep Boys. Maybe related but not sure, the low beam no longer works, but the Hi beams do. Seems like the flasher issue started at the same time. Will be going over the wiring again when I get the time.

Anyone know how to fix the fast blinker issue? Thanks.

[André]

Did you check voltage it can be too high. A faulty r/r may cause high voltage that can have blown your low beam and have more issues.

[tom203]

The problem: Turn signal flashing speed goes up and down with the bike’s RPMs. They will speed up until they are going so fast that they stay solid. But once my RPMs get closer to idle speed the blinkers seem to work correctly.

I have an after marked flasher from Pep Boys. Maybe related but not sure, the low beam no longer works, but the Hi beams do. Seems like the flasher issue started at the same time. Will be going over the wiring again when I get the time.

Anyone know how to fix the fast blinker issue? Thanks.

Strange- have you checked your charging system output as you rev up and down? I'd try another flasher!

[Steve]

Just another vote for CHECK YOUR VOLTAGE.

.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Yes, it sounds like a charging system issue. "Stator Papers" anyone? How old is your battery? There are more electrical tips on my website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Mop Bucket]

Voltage issue? So, I went through the stator papers and checked the voltage at the battery and at idle I am getting 15+ volts... yikes. I guess that is bad. I tried another test and it should have been .2 or lower and I was around .7ish at idle. I will rewire the ground to the RR since that is a suspect, at least the wire looks bad on a splice I did. I cleaned some of the contacts again. Another thing I did, was take the stator loop out of the picture based on stuff I read here. Not sure if that helped in toasting the R/R?

Based off the above should I purchase a new R/R?

[Redman]

The problem: Turn signal flashing speed goes up and down with the bike’s RPMs. They will speed up until they are going so fast that they stay solid. But once my RPMs get closer to idle speed the blinkers seem to work correctly.

I have an after marked flasher from Pep Boys. Maybe related but not sure, the low beam no longer works, but the Hi beams do. Seems like the flasher issue started at the same time. Will be going over the wiring again when I get the time.

Anyone know how to fix the fast blinker issue? Thanks.

Blinker "speed" is a function of the current going thru the flasher. ANd the current will be a function of the voltage.



And on most any bike the voltage will be a function of the rpm, will be low at low rpms and rize with rpms, up to about 13.5 or 14 volts (14.5 max) at something like 3thous RPM, and no higer voltage at higher rpms. Sounds like on yhour bike the voltage goes even higher. THis is either a problem with the R/R, or the R/R is not well grounded.

Maybe you voltage is going way high, and that is why you have burnt out your headlight, and others may be about to burn out also.

DO you have a voltmeter to check the charging system?
You have an old bike, you should get a voltmeter.
You have a GS, you should have a voltmeter.



>>later note.
I see you posted while I was typoing.
Ew, voltage high like that is a problem, like I mentioned before.
It can be caused by the R/R not beinfg well grounded even if the R/R itself is good.
So, no, dont replcae the R/R untill you check out the ground.
Find the where the black wire from the R/R is conencted to (usally the starter solenoid mount bolt.). Measure voltage between that point and the battery negitive. Should be about nothing, close to zero point zero. If not, try claning the cponnectors there, and/or run your ouwn ground wire from that point to battery negitive.

[duaneage]

I can solve your RR problem for 45 dollars, I offer a Honda RR kit that outlasts the OEM stuff. PM me for details on how to order one.

[Steve]

I see you posted while I was typoing.

Dave, you don't know how much this made me chuckle.

It's not going to get any better on the board tonight, I'm going to bed.

.

[Mop Bucket]

Thanks Duaneage

I got the Honda RR and it seemed to do the trick. I didn't hook up the black wire, is that needed?

[duaneage]

Yes
See the wiring diagram on my sig line

[Mop Bucket]

What does the black wire do? I ask because I will need to splice and cut wires. I try to avoid wiring since the electronic part of the bike I don't understand very well. I am also color blind...

[duaneage]

The black wire is the voltage sense lead. It measures the voltage on the bike and adjusts the regulator accordingly.

[posplayr]

The black wire is the voltage sense lead. It measures the voltage on the bike and adjusts the regulator accordingly.

and he will overcharge with max output if it is left floating.

at least connect it to the battery if you can not find the tail light connections; that will slowly drain the battery (if left setting) but better than and overcharging while ridding

[Mop Bucket]

Still not sure where to connect in the black wire. The orange wire goes up to my ignition. The break light switch is right by the black wire. Do I cut the orange wire and put the black wire inbetween the fuse box and ignition? So the wire would be orange out of the fuse box then the black wire from the R/R and then the orange wire again going back up to the ignition? If so what does the break light have to do with the setup? Or, do I connect the black wires connectors on the end of the orange/green wire that goes to the brake switch?