No power, big mistake made, no what?

[mrmech82]

Hello all,

So my room mate, while I was at work, was using my gs850g 1980. Had the fuse blow to the signals and neutral switch light. So he replaced the fuse, and it blew again, so instead of leaving it, he put in a bigger fuse. Now its dead. Completely. Does nothing at all. I am about to go out there with my volt meter and go to town, but was wondering if there is a known weak area that may have been burnt up. I am thinking the fuse panel got fried, but I won't know for a little while, so I was hoping to find some guidance to see where things when wrong. I know I am going to have to locate the original problem with the blinkers and neutral light, but I need power to the bike first. THanks!

[cowboyup3371]

Check your battery first for proper voltage as well as the other fuses. Then start looking at all the connections throughout the bike on that circuit and make sure something hasn't torn up/burnt/grounded out etc

[mrmech82]

I just went out there to check all the basics. Fuses are all good. Battery has 11.98 volts. Checked the ignition switch. Seems fine. I stopped for now, I can't find my manual right now. Misplaced. So after I find it, I can find where to go next. All I can say right now without my manual, is the two bottom fuses have 12 volts running through them, but the others do not, not with the key turned or anything. Once I track down my manual I will update after future tests.
I did not notice any burnt up wires, or browned wires. I checked all my grounds and they look solid. Thanks.

[cowboyup3371]

Battery is too low to do anything for you. Get it on the charger before going too much further.

If the other fuses don't have any power than yea, they are dead. Might want to look at those wires coming out of the fuse block going to the end points. Also might want to look at the wire coming from the ignition switch just to make certain.

[TheCafeKid]

For starters, trace the wires coming out of the fuse block back to the connector. The main power wire from the ignition is usually orange and white. Check all the wires in that connector for tightness. This is a symptom of another problem (perhaps overcharging) but that connector will get very very hot and melt around the wires pins. Then they don't make a good connection. You'll also want to check both sides for continuity. With the key on, the harness side of the connector on the O&W wire should read around twelve volts. On the fuse block side, stick your pos lead in one side of each wire and neg in the fuse block (set to OHM) should have something other than -1. If it reads -1 there's infinite resistance and you've got a open somewhere in the line. Id have to look at a manual, but if, on the harness side you get no volts, you may have fried the ignitor. I can't remember off the top of my head.

[mrmech82]

I will get the battery on the charger tonight. With any luck after work I will find the manual to see where the circuit leads to, since I know the source of what went wrong. Not to sure on the cause of the blowing fuse. I checked the ignition wire and I get 12v constant from the red wire and 12 volt with key turned from the brown wire. So that seems ok? So that is where I am going to stop at tonight I think, unless I magically come across my manual and have a brilliant idea. I will leave it for tomorrow night. I appreciate the help, and I will check the wires from the fuse block first.

[mrmech82]

With the key on, the harness side of the connector on the O&W wire should read around twelve volts. On the fuse block side, stick your pos lead in one side of each wire and neg in the fuse block (set to OHM) should have something other than -1. If it reads -1 there's infinite resistance and you've got a open somewhere in the line. Id have to look at a manual, but if, on the harness side you get no volts, you may have fried the ignitor. I can't remember off the top of my head.

At this point I am a little lost. Which harness, the main harness off the fuse block? Or the harness for the ignition that has 4 wires. Or am I just trying to find the O/W wire and for this whole exercise that is the harness I am testing? Am I testing the harness plugged in or unplugged? Or does it matter? Thanks. Sorry for the dumb questions, my brain isn't working to well tonight.

[fishfarm]

The GS850G shop manual and wiring diagram are on BikeCliff's site, top of the page.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

[TheCafeKid]

At this point I am a little lost. Which harness, the main harness off the fuse block? Or the harness for the ignition that has 4 wires. Or am I just trying to find the O/W wire and for this whole exercise that is the harness I am testing? Am I testing the harness plugged in or unplugged? Or does it matter? Thanks. Sorry for the dumb questions, my brain isn't working to well tonight.

Follow the sub harness coming out of the fuse block. Each model bike was a little different so you'll have to forgive me as I'm going off memory here but at some point before it meets the main harness there will be a male female connector block. Pull it apart (assuming it isn't melted together) and test continuity on the fuse block side as I stated above. Then test for voltage on the main harness side with the O&W wire that goes into the connector. Positive lead stuck into that wires spot and negative to ground somewhere should yield around 12 volts withthe key on.

[mrmech82]

OK this is what I got.

From the first harness coming out the fuse block, had 4 wires. orange/green (o/g) orange/purple (o/p) orange/white (o/w) and orange.

O/G The reading would vary. Sometimes would read at .2 but if I moved the probe around pressing the tab on the fuse block would shoot upward to 15.05 at times. On the #2 fuse.

O/P gave me a reading of .4

O/W gave a reading of .8

Orange was .0 - .1

All the reading were with the key on.
I checked for voltage on the o/w wire and it had none.
I also checked for voltage on the other harness that had 3 wires, O/W green brown. and it had none.

EDIT: Also none of the harness's were melted at all, looked good really, came apart easy.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I suppose it's possible that the Turn Signal Control Unit or Turn Signal Relay is fried. (Let's hope it's not the ignitor.) Those three top fuses all share the same positive. If one is bad it affects all three, headlight, signals, ignition. Simplify the wiring and see which fused circuit is causing you grief.

Simplify The Wiring Diagram

Download a 1980 GS850G Wiring Diagram (color)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[mrmech82]

OK,

so here is where I am at. I think my ignition switch is fried. I get 12 volts from the battery to the bottom two fuses on the fuse panel, from there I get 12 volts from the fuse panel to the ignition switch (red wire) with the key on. I am getting only .055 volts from the (orange) wire. Which is giving me .065 volts to the first harness after the fuse panel. Each 4 wires on the harness is getting the same voltage.

I am just looking for conformation that the ignition switch is fried. And also if anyone knows a part # or if it a suzuki only part or what not.

My second question now lies in the turn signal switch. How can I test this? Do I need to fix my ignition switch to get power to it to test it? or can I just check for continuity?

And how do I test my ignitor?

I am very lost with out my manual that seems to have grown legs and left my vast collection. I am ordering a new one tonight, but in the mean time, I really do appreciate the help everyone! Thanks a lot!

[JEEPRUSTY]

OK,

so here is where I am at. I think my ignition switch is fried. I get 12 volts from the battery to the bottom two fuses on the fuse panel, from there I get 12 volts from the fuse panel to the ignition switch (red wire) with the key on. I am getting only .055 volts from the (orange) wire. Which is giving me .065 volts to the first harness after the fuse panel. Each 4 wires on the harness is getting the same voltage.

I am just looking for conformation that the ignition switch is fried. And also if anyone knows a part # or if it a suzuki only part or what not.

My second question now lies in the turn signal switch. How can I test this? Do I need to fix my ignition switch to get power to it to test it? or can I just check for continuity?

And how do I test my ignitor?

I am very lost with out my manual that seems to have grown legs and left my vast collection. I am ordering a new one tonight, but in the mean time, I really do appreciate the help everyone! Thanks a lot!

The issue with the switch may be in the connector itself. Can you readily disconnect the switch from the harness? Corrosion accounts for a lot.

[mrmech82]

The issue with the switch may be in the connector itself. Can you readily disconnect the switch from the harness? Corrosion accounts for a lot.

I have checked all my harness's, have cleaned all of them while I have been doing this too. Some thing was damaged when the higher amp fuse was put in, when there was an obvious problem.

Electronics are not my thing. I have been learning, but ugh I hate em. Give me an obd2 plug and I got it!

[TheCafeKid]

I have checked all my harness's, have cleaned all of them while I have been doing this too. Some thing was damaged when the higher amp fuse was put in, when there was an obvious problem.

Electronics are not my thing. I have been learning, but ugh I hate em. Give me an obd2 plug and I got it!

Ok, time to check the kill switch. (we are trying to eliminate this from the equation) this will require you to remove the switch from the bars (take your headlight out of the bucket, trace the wires from the kill switch back to the headlight bucket and disconnect it at the connector). You're going to need to test for continuity in all positions. If I recall correctly, it's fed by an O/W and an O witha red tube or just O. The kill switch has two contact points. Off, and on. The bike will still get power to everything with the key on and the killwitch off, except for the ignition. If these contacts are dirty or worn it won't work.