Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Recommended R/R?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Originally posted by smarzinski View Post
    All of the wires that were melted were at the spade connectors the p.o. put in. All of the other wires look fine. Im fighting the urge to connect the new one and fire the bike up!!! Im hoping that the connectors were the culprits and thats all its gonna be......hoping! Also ran a wire long enough to ground directly to the battery. My only question is, what do I do with the original ground wire in the wire harness?
    Hi,

    Wait a minute. I'm confused. What ground? Normally the stock r/r unit will ground to the battery box. That is the ground that should be moved to the negative terminal of the battery.

    If you already have a non-stock r/r unit on your bike then it could be a 6 wire unit with a black "sense" wire and a green ground wire. How many wires does your current r/r unit have?

    And wasn't this the one that melted its resin because it got so hot? I would not keep that unit if I were you. Install the new one. Have you tested your stator? What is the AC output voltage of the three legs? What are the resistance readings between the legs and from each leg to frame ground?

    Thank you for your indulgence,

    BassCliff

    Comment


      #32
      its a five wire. Three yellow, a red and a black with a white stripe. I looked at the schematic Billy Ricks posted but my wires arent the same colors. I wired the yellows together, the red together, and the black I was gonna run to the battery as I though it was the ground. Is this wrong?

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by smarzinski View Post
        its a five wire. Three yellow, a red and a black with a white stripe. I looked at the schematic Billy Ricks posted but my wires arent the same colors. I wired the yellows together, the red together, and the black I was gonna run to the battery as I though it was the ground. Is this wrong?
        That's fine but you want make sure you have a ground from the battery to the engine. It's also a good idea to run a ground from one of the r/r mounting bolts to the frame.

        This is Jim's, posplayr, diagram.

        Comment


          #34
          Ok yea I got it. The black w/white stripe runs to the battery, all I did was run a new wire instead. Everything is hooked up, just gotta wait for the new Fluke to get here.

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
            Hi,

            Wait a minute. I'm confused. What ground? Normally the stock r/r unit will ground to the battery box. That is the ground that should be moved to the negative terminal of the battery.

            If you already have a non-stock r/r unit on your bike then it could be a 6 wire unit with a black "sense" wire and a green ground wire. How many wires does your current r/r unit have?

            And wasn't this the one that melted its resin because it got so hot? I would not keep that unit if I were you. Install the new one. Have you tested your stator? What is the AC output voltage of the three legs? What are the resistance readings between the legs and from each leg to frame ground?

            Thank you for your indulgence,

            BassCliff
            Its a whole new R/R that I have wired in. The ground wire from the previous R/R was already grounded to the negative battery terminal. As suggested, Ill run another ground from the R/R mounting bolt to the frame too. I havent tested anything yet as my Fluke decided to stop working and I had to order another. I should be ready to test no later then Wednesday. Thanks for the help!

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by Billy Ricks View Post
              T

              This is Jim's, posplayr, diagram.
              The frame should be the central ground point, not the RR mounting bolt. This arrangement would invite ground loops and besides, it's hard to implement.
              1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
              1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

              Comment


                #37
                So where am I supposed to ground? The battery? The frame? I have it ground to the negative battery post right now.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by smarzinski View Post
                  So where am I supposed to ground? The battery? The frame? I have it ground to the negative battery post right now.
                  Make sure there is a second ground going from the bettery to the back of the engine in the transmission area. It fits right between the swingarm and the back of the engine. It's also a good idea to run a ground from one of the r/r mounting bolts to the frame.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by duaneage View Post
                    The frame should be the central ground point, not the RR mounting bolt. This arrangement would invite ground loops and besides, it's hard to implement.
                    It's not meant to be an actual ground, it's so the r/r can shunt to something other than itself.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Here's Jim's thread on grounds.
                      This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.

                      He suggests that the r/r ground actually be attached to one of the r/r mounting bolts so you have a single point for all grounds. Then run the other grounds from there.
                      Last edited by Guest; 04-30-2011, 08:42 PM.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by smarzinski View Post
                        So where am I supposed to ground? The battery? The frame? I have it ground to the negative battery post right now.
                        We had a contest a while back; the price was an Duanage Honda R/R. The question was were does all the charging current in the system return to? The answer was the R/R(-); that is why the single point ground is at the R/R mounting bolt.


                        Not to the frame, not to the battery, electricty moves in "circuits", so the current that comes out of the R/R (+) has to return to the R/R (-). No where else.

                        The simplified schematic you saw provided the analysis to select the best grounding point specifically to eliminate any ground loops. If you study it you should be able to tell.

                        RustyBronco won. Baltzor came in a close second. Even though he came in after Rusty's answer, Baltzor's answer was technically superior but beyond the scope of the contest.

                        http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...current+return
                        Last edited by posplayr; 04-30-2011, 08:52 PM.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          There is a ground running from the battery to the back of the tranny. Should there also be one to the chassis?

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by smarzinski View Post
                            There is a ground running from the battery to the back of the tranny. Should there also be one to the chassis?
                            It wouldn't be a bad idea. With the motor mounts being painted you may not get a good ground to the frame just through them.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by Billy Ricks View Post
                              It wouldn't be a bad idea. With the motor mounts being painted you may not get a good ground to the frame just through them.

                              Billy,
                              I just posted a couple drawing showing the difference between how the current flows depending on how the grounds are constructed.



                              This may be close to a wash if all contacts between the battery(-) and R/R(-) are kept clean but as we have come to expect things fall into dis repair. Putting a bigger wire between the battery and R/R doesn't really help the situation when it is connections and crimps that get dirty.

                              Jim

                              Comment


                                #45
                                What's an R/R?
                                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X