Overcharging issue -recitifier?

[posplayr]

That was how I felt until just before Easter when my stator got toasted. I decided to transfer the whole set up my donor bike had (something aftermarket with an intergated R/R) across just to make sure I wasn't risking another stator. I have also added in a digital volt meter which now sits on top of the instruments and I monitor the battery/charging all the time. The new set up is much more stable than the old one was.

Nostalgia is great, but pulling stators ain't

[Bill Alexander]

Update:

A couple of notes:

1. My headlight switch actually works - easy to do on 78s
2. I've done the stator output conversion so that the one leg does not run to the headlight switch and back - so all of the stator output goes to the rectifier and VR
3. I went to HF and got another VOM, cause I just couldn't believe the readings I'm getting

So, I did the following tests:

1. Rectifier output is good and steady DCV
2. Main power fuse is steady DCV
3. The other 3 fuses test result is the jumping voltage
4, Battery static -13.8V, running 14.8-15.4
5. The headlight socket has jumping voltage on both high and low

So, based upon these results, the VR and the rectifier are good. There is a problem of some kind between the main fuse and the other fuses. There are two wires and the ignition switch between the main fuse and the other fuses.

I'lll be pulling the switch next

And yeah, the SFRC season opener is tomorrow at 9 AM. I've got to get the 78 up and running for it. The only other bike I have that runs is my GPZ, but that needs new tires due to age, so I definitely do not want to ride that ion the rain.

That would be the red and orange wires. See the other thread (have no idea how to link to it). I have found the connector block from the ignition switch (in the headlight bucket) to be an issue. Both the red and the orange wire connector pins are too small for the current load they carry (IMO)

[Big T]

That would be the red and orange wires. See the other thread (have no idea how to link to it). I have found the connector block from the ignition switch (in the headlight bucket) to be an issue. Both the red and the orange wire connector pins are too small for the current load they carry (IMO)

My thoughts exactly - they both run to the switch. I ran out of time to deal with it tonight. I'm thinking they've melted together?

Here's what I'm getting at the headlight and elsewhere when running. Click to watch video

[salty_monk]

No fuse block melting and arcing issues of the kind I had in Reno are there? Check the back of the box...

[OldVet66]

[PHP]Yeah, because the original was so weak, it only lasted 33 years![/PHP] It hasn't been in constant service for 33 years and the design was real bad the day it was manufactured. You will benefit from a modern R/R, and it's not like it shows.

[Big T]

I made it 420 miles today with no problem

I'll update in a few days

[850 Combat]

Where was the ride?

I got my car reassembled, but it still runs like crap. It steers more or less normally now at least though.