New stator is charging - ony at idle...

[posplayr]

O.k, I finally got back at the bike thanks to some sunny weather.
Bike fires right up (carbs clean now), idles great and charging at 13.9V at battery and 14.5 at the fuse box terminals. Voltage still plummets when revved to 5000RPM. I had the ground wire from the R/R attached to the battery box, relocated to the Batt. neg. terminal - made no difference. I tried to unplug ther R/R but the plastic connector wouldn't release - it was practically welded on! I finally got it off and saw that the white wire with red stripe had fused itself to the metal tang and the plastic was cooked all around it. I think there may be a problem...
This may have been from the bad stator, but it obviously isn't working as it should now. Does the white/red wire supply voltage at higher revs? Is this my problem?
Also, voltage drop from red wire on R/R is 0.37V, higher than the 0.25V allowed as stated in the revised stator page.

this is the problem you have to chase down. The negative side is helped by the grounding recommendations. If that drop is at idle, measure it at 5000 RPM ; it will normally be higher at higher RPM because there is more current being pushed through.

[TitanNeil]

Thanks Posplayer for helping me out with this - the bike is apart and i'm checking connections now. Really, the 5-wire connector that plugs into the R/R is a problem - all the wires are a bit melted and the white/red is DEFINITELY melted. There is probably an unhappy amount of resistance in all of them.

[posplayr]

Thanks Posplayer for helping me out with this - the bike is apart and i'm checking connections now. Really, the 5-wire connector that plugs into the R/R is a problem - all the wires are a bit melted and the white/red is DEFINITELY melted. There is probably an unhappy amount of resistance in all of them.

I have had a bad connector (loose crimps) on a Electrosport R/R (brand new), that cause the type of volatge drop you are describing. I just got rid of the connections all together and just soldered it in and it worked fine.

This is why in the revised stator pages (see my link) the only real test of connections is to do it at 5K RPM and get below at least 0.2V on both positive and negative sides.


http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:

[TitanNeil]

Fixed!

I fixed it! Thanks Posplayer! (and others!) for the very useful pointers, links to tutorials, and for answering back even though I might not have followed instructions perfectly...

I discovered that the 5 wires going in to the rectifier were quite melted & internally corroded. One had melted and was probably arcing to another under higher load. I ended up clipping off the plastic connector and 1" of wiring from the 5 ends, tinning and crimping on separate female blade connectors to attach to the R/R. It seems to have fixed the problem, as it is charging at 14.5V at idle and 13.5V at 5000RPM. I don't know if this is ideal, all I know is that even though there were 4 guests arriving for dinner I simple HAD to go for a 15 minute ride to test the charging system. It worked flawlessly, and when I arrived back, I shut off the bike and could actually start it again! Lotsa battery! Frig, dinner can wait - I have a bike again!

[posplayr]

I fixed it! Thanks Posplayer! (and others!) for the very useful pointers, links to tutorials, and for answering back even though I might not have followed instructions perfectly...

I discovered that the 5 wires going in to the rectifier were quite melted & internally corroded. One had melted and was probably arcing to another under higher load. I ended up clipping off the plastic connector and 1" of wiring from the 5 ends, tinning and crimping on separate female blade connectors to attach to the R/R. It seems to have fixed the problem, as it is charging at 14.5V at idle and 13.5V at 5000RPM. I don't know if this is ideal, all I know is that even though there were 4 guests arriving for dinner I simple HAD to go for a 15 minute ride to test the charging system. It worked flawlessly, and when I arrived back, I shut off the bike and could actually start it again! Lotsa battery! Frig, dinner can wait - I have a bike again!

This is telling me you probably have corrosion in either the fuse box or at the "T" in the harness. When the voltage drops like that , I call it voltage fold back because the voltage at the R/R is probably 14.5V , but the voltage drops between it and the battery are making the battery voltage down 13.5V. So you are probably looking at 0.75V drops or more somewhere still.

OK for the moment, but don't expect it to get any better.

here is a pic of where the "T" is; it is close to where the R/R connections enter the harness.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1418206&postcount=7

these are the crimps in the fuse box (assuming the style you have) that can get corroded as well. Clean with some navel jelly and flow some solder into those crimps will improve things as well.

The picture is fuzzy, but you can see teh solder in the two foreground crimps.

The Front left red one is a direct connection to the battery. The red wire on left back row is fused and goes to the "T" (where it connects to the R/R and on to the ignition switch). Power returns from the ignition switch on the right Front Orange in the foreground and distributes to the 3 legs on the back row (also orange) I think the O/W starts after the right hand switch controls.

Anyhow the two left hand crimps contribute to voltage drops in the charging, but it doesnt hurt to clean them all up.