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New stator is charging - ony at idle...
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TitanNeil
Thanks Posplayer for helping me out with this - the bike is apart and i'm checking connections now. Really, the 5-wire connector that plugs into the R/R is a problem - all the wires are a bit melted and the white/red is DEFINITELY melted. There is probably an unhappy amount of resistance in all of them.
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Originally posted by TitanNeil View PostThanks Posplayer for helping me out with this - the bike is apart and i'm checking connections now. Really, the 5-wire connector that plugs into the R/R is a problem - all the wires are a bit melted and the white/red is DEFINITELY melted. There is probably an unhappy amount of resistance in all of them.
This is why in the revised stator pages (see my link) the only real test of connections is to do it at 5K RPM and get below at least 0.2V on both positive and negative sides.
http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php
Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:Last edited by posplayr; 11-16-2015, 07:28 PM.
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TitanNeil
Fixed!
I fixed it! Thanks Posplayer! (and others!) for the very useful pointers, links to tutorials, and for answering back even though I might not have followed instructions perfectly...
I discovered that the 5 wires going in to the rectifier were quite melted & internally corroded. One had melted and was probably arcing to another under higher load. I ended up clipping off the plastic connector and 1" of wiring from the 5 ends, tinning and crimping on separate female blade connectors to attach to the R/R. It seems to have fixed the problem, as it is charging at 14.5V at idle and 13.5V at 5000RPM. I don't know if this is ideal, all I know is that even though there were 4 guests arriving for dinner I simple HAD to go for a 15 minute ride to test the charging system. It worked flawlessly, and when I arrived back, I shut off the bike and could actually start it again! Lotsa battery! Frig, dinner can wait - I have a bike again!
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Originally posted by TitanNeil View PostI fixed it! Thanks Posplayer! (and others!) for the very useful pointers, links to tutorials, and for answering back even though I might not have followed instructions perfectly...
I discovered that the 5 wires going in to the rectifier were quite melted & internally corroded. One had melted and was probably arcing to another under higher load. I ended up clipping off the plastic connector and 1" of wiring from the 5 ends, tinning and crimping on separate female blade connectors to attach to the R/R. It seems to have fixed the problem, as it is charging at 14.5V at idle and 13.5V at 5000RPM. I don't know if this is ideal, all I know is that even though there were 4 guests arriving for dinner I simple HAD to go for a 15 minute ride to test the charging system. It worked flawlessly, and when I arrived back, I shut off the bike and could actually start it again! Lotsa battery! Frig, dinner can wait - I have a bike again!
OK for the moment, but don't expect it to get any better.
here is a pic of where the "T" is; it is close to where the R/R connections enter the harness.
these are the crimps in the fuse box (assuming the style you have) that can get corroded as well. Clean with some navel jelly and flow some solder into those crimps will improve things as well.
The picture is fuzzy, but you can see teh solder in the two foreground crimps.
The Front left red one is a direct connection to the battery. The red wire on left back row is fused and goes to the "T" (where it connects to the R/R and on to the ignition switch). Power returns from the ignition switch on the right Front Orange in the foreground and distributes to the 3 legs on the back row (also orange) I think the O/W starts after the right hand switch controls.
Anyhow the two left hand crimps contribute to voltage drops in the charging, but it doesnt hurt to clean them all up.
Last edited by posplayr; 05-21-2011, 09:43 PM.
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